Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Both are an option when used correctly.Do I have to use aluminum rivets or are stainless steel screws OK?
thanks
roland
No mast cleat here, but related questions.
1) Should the mast cleat loosen, what do you do?
2) Anyone tried polypropylene line?
A Sunfish I bought came with 1/8" polypropylene. 'Tough on the hands so I replaced it with a cheap braided nylon line. But the replaced 1/8" line was slick through the guides, and with two extra turns on the deck cleat, held fast.
Sanding on the mast makes sense, would have never thought of thatBoth are an option when used correctly.
- Aluminium rivets are best when you want to 100% avoid galvanic corrosion. No matter sailing salt, fresh or brackish water. Salt water just has a faster galvanic reaction then brackish or fresh.
- You can use Stainless Steel screws but you want to (try to) avoid contact between the dissimilar metals. In other applications you can suffice with nylon washers or sealant between metals. In this case use Tefgel.
1) My vote is to fix it. Keep using it will "open" the holes in mast more, making future repair more extensive.
- Pop rivets; drill out, clean surface, cleat and holes. reattach.
- Screws; remove, clean surface, cleat and holes. Since it's loose while using screws, the holes are bigger than the screws. See if you can use thicker screws or use the same size but also attach it on a bed of 3m 4200.
2) I don't. I sail in the Caribbean and the sun is too aggressive for PolyProp. Either way, I prefer Dyneema as a halyard. Light weight, no stretch, doesn't absorb on water.
Ps. Another tip I found about the mast cleat on this forum: Put a piece of rough sandpaper on the mast sand the cleat on it. This will give your cleat the curve of the mast for a better load spread.
Can this cleat be used with the two halyard system? Can it handle two lines? Do you need different line diameters?
Yes you can, yes it does, and yes you do! This is how I have mine rigged. The first line I put in is the jens halyard. I wish I could tell you its diameter but I don't know it. It just barely holds. Either a slightly thicker halyard or shimming the cleat away from the mast would probably help. The second, main halyard is thicker and cleats nicely on top. When you need to go to the jens, you just pop the main halyard and off you go!Can this cleat be used with the two halyard system? Can it handle two lines? Do you need different line diameters?
I think ReneEvM meant sanding the cleat, whether nylon or other material. Both contacting surfaces should be abraded and cleaned before applying 3M 4200 (optional).I'd sand a nylon cleat instead of the mast.
I think that ReneEvM was suggesting to hold the sandpaper onto the mast (non abrasive side facing the mast) and then use that as a mold to sand the correct curve into the cleat. At least that’s how I’m picturing it.I'd sand a nylon cleat instead of the mast.
Sorry to necro this, but late last season my halyard cleat gave way in the middle of Irondiquoit bay. Tag, looking at your pictures and write up is there anything on the inside of the mast holding the screws in? No nuts or anything keeping the bolts from ripping out?I only sail on fresh water. I used the 3M 4200 sealant behind the cleat, and fastened it on with #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws – I had to pre-drill the mast with small pilot holes.
Sunfish and Minifish both.
View attachment 34536View attachment 34537