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I usually fold head to clew then roll around my boom. It is only my practice sail, but it works fine for me. Also i take the boom and sail and slide it into my sail bag which keeps everything clean for the storage tube at the club.

My early 1982 laser has a B at the end... this would help me out too...

3. Why were you in the water swimming after the boat, learn to dry capsize and you will never have to swim after it... also makes it easier to right, instead of having to climb back in, you just kinda fall into the boat. There is a kid at my club that can dry capsize and get back in the boat...

I clamped in some spots and not in others. I had a 3 foot run where the deck was separated and needed to be clamped in 2 directions to get the right alignment for the rail. One clamp (actually 3) compressed the deck to the hull (pushing up and down if the boat was upright on a dolly) and one...

Just did this repair this past spring/summer. I was able to use 4 pumps of west at a time, mix in 406 to a thick, yet runny and used a syringe. It was very helpful to angle the boat so the rail was about 45 degrees so the epoxy didn't drip into the hull where it had completely de-laminated...

yeah, as AlanD has explained. The widest part of the deck is around the front of the dagger and gets the most leverage to keep the boat upright. When you sit back, you actually put more of the hull in the water and get a lot less leverage for righting. I do sit back when going downwind and...

How far forward are you in the cockpit? I find that when I get even with the dagger or almost in front of it I have an easier time staying flat. I also tend to let out just a little and pull in if I feel the loss of speed. I had a blast the other day in 20mph winds (radial) but because I...

Yeah, you should see the spider cracks in mine... looks like it got hit broadside by a battleship. They are merely cosmetic even if they are below the waterline... so real quick fix to make them go away that I have found. Just a re-gelcoat of the boat will fix it. If anyone else has extra...

I noticed that in the very first picture... my question is, how did you get the SF mast into the laser bottom? there is a ring on the laser top that should sit snugly into the bottom. I'll have to see if I can rig my radial with a sunfish top...lol Glad you figured it out. See where you can...

Wow that's great, and having the number under the boweye says it is really old. I saw one today that had a 5#### and was impressed (1978). Good to hear that it is in great condition. I have put mine through the paces the last 3 days. Tacks, Gybes, and even had it going in reverse so fast I...

Does the serial number have a letter in front of it? My boat has the #4429, but there is an A in front of it, so the real number is 104429. the last 4 characters should be the year (mine says M82B) so it was made in 1982. As a good laser buyer should know, flip the boat over and inspect the...

Well if you are over too far, your bow will start pushing windward, especially if you are over enough to get the rudder out of the water. But I am sure both are a problem here.

I am at the same point as above... I even asked a small child to take a rag to the inside and twist back and forth but there is still dirt on the surface that will make for a bad adhesion for the plate.

I have recently restored a 1982 Laser and needed some things (like a new sail) to get it ready for the water. The prices are good for the things you need, unless you will be racing and need all Laser Class approved equipment, then you will have to go elsewhere for parts. The top mast section...

The Intensity dolly does have the rail holders that flip up into place and down when launching. The pictures have not been updated since the newer version has been made. However, I ordered my dolly from Intensity last week and they are on on backorder (expected to ship in 2-3 weeks). So if...

Can a sheet line that floats or doesn't take on a lot of water weight help with the problem? That way it is lighter and less likely to get submerged and pulled under the surface during the execution? Just an idea, and would cost less in time (maybe not money) than grinding, sanding, painting...