Flieger
Member
For installing an inspection port, what's preferred? self tapping screws or nuts and Bolts?
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We like marine grade stainless machine screws with washers and nylock nuts underneath, to prevent pointy, rusty screw tips from biting future Skippers. Buy a few extra in case you drop something inside, they disappear fast. We get the screws just a little longer so we can reach them easier, the inner lip of the inspection port gets in the way of fingers, and use a deep socket to hold nylock nuts in place while we tighten them.
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So, from the video, I can tell that you put the caulk along the inner edge of the inspection port, which means that the bolt holes are exposed to the water. You don't have any trouble with leaks that way?No, we don't. Wouldn't hurt.
Sorry, but I don't quite understand. How can I get the caulk to squeeze up against the screw? Should I caulk around the hole to where the head of the screw squeezes down on the caulk?You want the caulk to squeeze up against the screw. Putting caulk on the holes only makes a mess on the threads that you'll not appreciate when putting on the nuts.
Put a bead around the entire permimeter of the inspection port where it will meet up with the hull. I also like to make small-ish "circles" around the pre-drilled screw holes. Feed the screws into the port flange and then install the port, lining up the screws, best you can as you go. You'll probably have a screw tip nab some errant caulk, but that's the way it goes. Now, when the flange is pressed down and especially when screwed, the caulk will squeeze out and if enough caulk was applied, should slightly come out around the edges and potentially out the holes, with the screws half sticking out. Kinda like squeezing an ice cream sandwich...the ice cream comes oozing out between the top and bottom cookie layers.Sorry, but I don't quite understand. How can I get the caulk to squeeze up against the screw? Should I caulk around the hole to where the head of the screw squeezes down on the caulk?
Put a bead around the entire permimeter of the inspection port where it will meet up with the hull. I also like to make small-ish "circles" around the pre-drilled screw holes. Feed the screws into the port flange and then install the port, lining up the screws, best you can as you go. You'll probably have a screw tip nab some errant caulk, but that's the way it goes. Now, when the flange is pressed down and especially when screwed, the caulk will squeeze out and if enough caulk was applied, should slightly come out around the edges and potentially out the holes, with the screws half sticking out. Kinda like squeezing an ice cream sandwich...the ice cream comes oozing out between the top and bottom cookie layers.
If you don't want your install to leak, too much caulk typically isn't the issue. WAY too much caulk just becomes a mess to clean up, never mind your hands and running your hand thru your hair, pulling up yer britches...!!! etc.
Lastly, some like to install everything with the sealant applied. Then let the caulk dry before final tightening of the screws. The caulk supposedly acts like a "gasket" as well this way and the potential to squeeze it all out when {over}tightening the screws occurs. That said, I never do this procedure.... I like to finish the job, once started. Also I see the potential of "disturbing" the caulk around the screws, when they are twisted again, "possibly" opening new pathways for water to come in. I've seen amazing amounts of water travel thru screw threads, when you'd think they are water tight. Picture a garden hose without the rubber gasket.
I'd suggest leveling the interface between port and deck using 3M 4200, or every fit between port and cover will progressively tighten early before sealing the port from water intrusion.
Ask me how I know...
So leveling means spreading a bead of 4200 and let it dry, so it forms a level surface to receive the inspection port? Then add another bead to the bottom of the inspection port when installing it?Just so we're clear, "self-tapping screws" are those with a drill bit formed into its working end. (Lately, better referred-to as "self-drilling" screws).
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A "wood screw" has a taper for its entire length, so the holes should be drilled with a wood screw bit that approximates the taper. There is also a relief for the shaft—plus the chamfer—described earlier as "desirable" at the big end.
These would have to be carefully chosen for fit.
(Picture below now described as "vintage"—like my set—and me. )
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A "regular" sheet-metal screw (stainless-phillips) is what I use, since I've collected probably thousands of them!
If you're using a relatively flexible inspection port and cover—say, from China—I'd suggest leveling the interface between port and deck using 3M 4200, or every fit between port and cover will progressively tighten early before sealing the port from water intrusion.
Ask me how I know...
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It is a easy project.
Agree. I think this is a simple project that is being over engineered! Use lots of silicone and screw it all together!
But I did learn a lot about screws...Agree. I think this is a simple project that is being over engineered! Use lots of silicone and screw it all together!
LOL. Almost there. Still need to install a drain plug, and make some repairs on the sail. Then take my son to college, and then, maybe, if there is wind, I'll get to take her out.phew...and it didn't explode! Well done! Time for a break...like some sailing time!
What I meant was to apply to a flexible inspection port (made in China). The better brands (Beckson, Py-Hi) would still be served by building a small platform with 4200 and squish the port on top of it. (Trimming off the excess as it oozes out).So leveling means spreading a bead of 4200 and let it dry, so it forms a level surface to receive the inspection port? Then add another bead to the bottom of the inspection port when installing it?
Some cases require some foresight—like my "made in China" ports—which left a gap, and can't seal against water intrusion.Agree. I think this is a simple project that is being over engineered! Use lots of silicone and screw it all together!
Since two of the self-drilling ones didn't tighten completely (i think they stripped the fiberglass), I would probably stick with the bolts next time.Since you've done both what do you recommend?
Some cases require some foresight—like my "made in China" ports—which left a gap, and can't seal against water intrusion.
(Gap above "X") :
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