What trailer do people prefer these days?

Lindac

Member
Hi - I spent a couple hours repairing this over 10 year old Trailex. I use it once a year to bring my Sunfish from Massachusetts to the Jersey shore and back. It has been mostly reliable, but I can’t help but think it’s a bit light for long distance. And now this has happened again - I was replacing the lights and discovered that the slot holding the bolts has crumbled on both sides, leaving the rear cradle unattached and basically just sitting on the long bar. Looks like this happened before but I’d forgotten about it. The cradle itself cracked once and was replaced on a trip to Maine.

So I’m not thrilled with Trailex or their one year warranty. Wondering what a popular trailer today might be.
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I have had several Trailex trailers over the years., The newer box frame model with the single steel leaf spring is a big improvement over the earlier designs with the single crossbar and the rubber "springs." I have replaced the original lights with LED lights and when I trail the trailer empty for long distances, I usually strap on an 80 lb. bag of water softener salt to reduce the bouncing. Also, the hitch tends to rattle, but can be adjusted with a socket wrench to reduce same. Changing a tire on the road can be a challenge as the trailer and boat are so light, a lug wrench will turn the tire before turning a lug nut - the fix is to carry my small, cordless DeWalt impact drill with a lug nut socket attached. I have made two 1,400 mike trips from Central, NY to Michigan without incident.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Yes, Lindac.
Same problem on my trailer. I have moved the nuts around to get away from the damaged area(s). But one can do that only for so long. I think I am at the third position by now. Watch the bailer; it may interfere with getting the hull on the trailer once you change the position of the bunks.

I do not agree that these trailers are not suitable for long distance traveling. I have done thousands of miles with mine (now over twenty years old). One does need to take care of the bearings, tires and lights.

The remarks from Alan are quite 'on point'. Specifically, the current version of the Trailex trailer for the Sunfish (SUT-220), although (more) expensive, seems to be an improvement over the no-spring one that I have had since way back.

PS: I wish there was a way to repair the damage shown in Linda's images. Anyone have a suggestion?
 
Aluminum, as a metal, is subject to "metal-fatigue". Any flexing especially affects aluminum.

Take a metal coat hanger, bend it back and forth, then it will heat up and fracture. That's "fatigue" in a ferrous metal.

The "fix" is to learn aluminum welding --which is called MIG welding. (Although other systems are available).
 
Is the bolt a standard hex-head cap screw?
Is the slot accessible at the end of the trailer?
Is drilling all the way through and assembling with a longer stainless bolt and lock nut an option?
I could also see a more elaborate sliding plate that has a stud and distributes the load more evenly that the head of a bolt.
 
Is the bolt a standard hex-head cap screw?
Is the slot accessible at the end of the trailer?
Is drilling all the way through and assembling with a longer stainless bolt and lock nut an option?
I could also see a more elaborate sliding plate that has a stud and distributes the load more evenly that the head of a bolt.
I think I would worry about compromising the integrity of the long bar by drilling through it and the whole thing could snap. Since Wavedancer and I are both on our third position I guess I’ll be ok on my trip this Saturday
 
Yes, Lindac.
Same problem on my trailer. I have moved the nuts around to get away from the damaged area(s). But one can do that only for so long. I think I am at the third position by now. Watch the bailer; it may interfere with getting the hull on the trailer once you change the position of the bunks.

I do not agree that these trailers are not suitable for long distance traveling. I have done thousands of miles with mine (now over twenty years old). One does need to take care of the bearings and lights.

The remarks from Alan are quite 'on point'.

PS: I wish there was a way to repair the damage shown in Linda's images. Anyone have a suggestion?
Thanks, and I guess looking back at my previous posts mine is also 20 years old!
 
Well if it worked for you for a long time, maybe it's time to retire it, thank it for its service and get a new one.

We bought an EZ Loader recently and a Malone MicroSport. Malone wins by quality, plus they have an endless supply of bunks, racks, cargo baskets etc to choose from. I'm considering ordering the second tier to carry a second kayak and spars. Right now I just put the spars on the lower bunk in a spar bag. The trailer ships in 4 boxes, you assemble.

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EZ Loader we bought from local boat trailer dealer and I had to design where the rollers went and scribe bunks to fit. For a boat trailer dealer they seemed pretty clueless when I brought them a 170 pound boat vs a honkin huge stinkpot.

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I had something similar happen to my Trailex. I ordered new parts and replaced the damaged ones. Around here, I'm finding it's easier to throw the Sunfish in the back of my truck with my bed extender and use the PVC dolly I built from Tag's plans. Thanks Tag!
 
I had something similar happen to my Trailex. I ordered new parts and replaced the damaged ones. Around here, I'm finding it's easier to throw the Sunfish in the back of my truck with my bed extender and use the PVC dolly I built from Tag's plans. Thanks Tag!
Tag, can you repost your instructions for building a PVC dolly. Many thanks
 
If you're handy it's not too difficult to make on on any old skiff/double jet ski trailer. This is my solution for zuma and sunfish or two sunfish. The bottom is slung in two straps, similar to the back of a dolly. The horizontal pieces the top boat sits on are held on with heavy duty hitch pins, so are removable to make loading and unloading the bottom boat easier. I have varnished the wood and put carpet on the top pieces since these photos.
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