What has changed since '78
- Thread starter marginal
- Start date
rock steady
New Member
Short answer - very little, but there is more experienced folk on here who will advise you better.
One thing I think is early boats didn't have a "breather" hole. (a small hole drilled into the front cockpit wall just under the hiking strap).
If the boat still weighs around 68kg (ie: it hasn't absorbed water) and is relatively stiff it should be fine. Check the mast step is OK and the hull is relatively flat where it should be (transom, around centre board).
One thing I think is early boats didn't have a "breather" hole. (a small hole drilled into the front cockpit wall just under the hiking strap).
If the boat still weighs around 68kg (ie: it hasn't absorbed water) and is relatively stiff it should be fine. Check the mast step is OK and the hull is relatively flat where it should be (transom, around centre board).
49208
Tentmaker
On the hull itself, I'm pretty sure nothing has changed structurally.
Fittings have change somewhat, for example the trav. eyes on new boats are metal vs the plastic found on the older boats. Mast sections are the same, vang fittings _may_ be slightly different. Boom on new boats is now sleeved at the vang area. Blocks are rivited together now as opposed to screwed together.
Rudder and daggerboard are the same, but rudder head uses a bigger dia bolt to pivot the blade in the rudder head.
All in all, there isn't anything that can't be retro-fitted to the old boat, including sleeving the boom.
Fittings have change somewhat, for example the trav. eyes on new boats are metal vs the plastic found on the older boats. Mast sections are the same, vang fittings _may_ be slightly different. Boom on new boats is now sleeved at the vang area. Blocks are rivited together now as opposed to screwed together.
Rudder and daggerboard are the same, but rudder head uses a bigger dia bolt to pivot the blade in the rudder head.
All in all, there isn't anything that can't be retro-fitted to the old boat, including sleeving the boom.
Pop-n-Jack
Member
My 1976 hull has the "breather" hole under the hiking strap. Composite boards are prefered over wood.
49208
Tentmaker
Pop-n-Jack said:
I have to disagree, the wooden blades, especially the daggerboard were preferred as they are stiffer and slightly thicker which theory says gives a little better performance in all but planing conditions. The problem is that unless you have a hull where the wooden blades were original equipment, you can not use them in a race. That means a hull from 1974 (I think) or older...Good luck finding a hull that old that is still stiff and in racing condition.
Hi,
More items to add to your upgrade list:
Metal traveler eyes,
Steel disc in mast pocket,
UHMW tape and rotate (or new) mast base plug,
Decent ratchet block,
New strap, and bungee,
Brass bung hole and bailer,
Screw in transome plug,
Spectra or kevlar traveler line,
sheet,
Bent vang key,
Swivel (if using old vang),
Silicone sealant on everything,
Tiller/stick,
New sails are 3.8 oz. vs. 3.2,
Have fun.
Al Russell 4606 and 182797
More items to add to your upgrade list:
Metal traveler eyes,
Steel disc in mast pocket,
UHMW tape and rotate (or new) mast base plug,
Decent ratchet block,
New strap, and bungee,
Brass bung hole and bailer,
Screw in transome plug,
Spectra or kevlar traveler line,
sheet,
Bent vang key,
Swivel (if using old vang),
Silicone sealant on everything,
Tiller/stick,
New sails are 3.8 oz. vs. 3.2,
Have fun.
Al Russell 4606 and 182797