derekcjackson
Member
Has anyone ever removed and/or replaced the splash guard on their Sunfish? I am specifically looking for guidance on how to do it to a new style hull that has rivets holding it in place (really old boats have screws).
Remove or Replace Splash Guard
- Thread starter derekcjackson
- Start date
I was going to replace mine with one i have laying around because mine was damaged the last person cracked it and left a hole in it three inches wide by 1 inch. Rather than drill out the rivets and reinstall new ones i decided to repair it. Really easy to do with fiberglass. I just painted it tonight.. looks brand new. and i dont have deal with drilling out the the old and re riveting the replacement. I do have a spare splash shield if you need it needs paint but is in good shape.
Alan Glos
Active Member
If you do choose to remove the old splash guard, you will need to drill out the old aluminun pop rivets. Select a sharp drill bit about 3/8" diameter and carefully drill down the center of each rivet until the head is gone. Then carefully push the shank of the rivet thru the deck with a small diameter punch. If you don't damage the holes in the fiberglass deck, you can install the new rivets in the same holes. Yes, the rivets you punch thru the deck will fall to the bottom of the hull interior (bilge) and rattle around a little until they jam in some crevice unless you have an inspection port aft of the splashrail and can fish them out or unless you have foam under the splashrail that will keep them from falling into the bilge.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
- - - or you can install a port, else if there’s an existing port simply reach in and catch the rivet bodies.
You can just re-rivet the splashguard. Sunfish dealers have sealed rivets just for the job. Rivets hold more securely with less strain on the deck holes if you have an access port and can drop them down through closley fitting washers below deck. Replacing rivets with Stainless Steel (
) screws, Nylock nuts and washers makes the job easier the next time. There’s a diagram of the How To in the files at Sunfish Sailors owner’s support ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sunfish_sailor ) You will have to create a user there just like you did to post here, but they are a free help group too and it's no more hassle than most "groups", "tubes", "books", or "spaces" on the net these days.
You can just re-rivet the splashguard. Sunfish dealers have sealed rivets just for the job. Rivets hold more securely with less strain on the deck holes if you have an access port and can drop them down through closley fitting washers below deck. Replacing rivets with Stainless Steel (
) screws, Nylock nuts and washers makes the job easier the next time. There’s a diagram of the How To in the files at Sunfish Sailors owner’s support ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sunfish_sailor ) You will have to create a user there just like you did to post here, but they are a free help group too and it's no more hassle than most "groups", "tubes", "books", or "spaces" on the net these days.Sun sailor
New Member
Can you elaborate on how your repaired the damaged splashguard with fiberglass? I smashed the end my splashguard when my sunfish went under the edge of a dock. Really bummed as I just restored it to like new condition. May have to replace it but would prefer to try to repair first if it is easy.
L&VW
Well-Known Member
West-System® epoxy will have you looking around for other things to repair!
It's odorless, and really strong. Many local hardware stores carry West-System® epoxy. I suggest the "slow-set" catalyst for ease of setting up materials or clamping the repair. You can measure by volume, and don't really need the pump$ We$t-Marine $tore$ will happily $ell to you.As a slight modification to Alan Glos' response: when drilling out pop-rivets, I use a drill bit that's only slightly larger than the rivet's shank. When the rivet starts to spin with the bit—tilt the drill a little—and the top of the rivet will spin right off. The spinning of the shank will release whatever grip the old rivet had in the hull. As Alan writes, punch it through to the interior. Use a punch smaller than the rivet's shank—a small nail can function for this easy "task".
As much as I prefer stainless steel (and nobody's suggesting them here), stainless steel pop-rivets would be much more difficult to drill out should the need arise. They also require much more muscle to "set" and could be a liability in this particular application.
Sealed aluminum pop-rivets are sorta available, but your repair is above the waterline.
My present borrowed Sunfish had the splashguard totally broken off. 
The ensuing repair used plastic screw-anchors used in drywall and it's broken off a second time. 
Come to think of it, I have a collection of nylon bolts—also readily available—but this borrowed Sunfish has no port for the access needed to attach them. 
L&VW
Well-Known Member
L&VW
Well-Known Member
I'd cut fiberglass mat strips and build them up about 1/8 inch and epoxy those holes closed, then redrill pilot holes for factory rivets.
good luck!
L&VW
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but I'm leaving this location soon, so I've already started removing the existing rivets, and found that the splashguard's underside is concave. So, if I just slide the splashguard back a ½-inch, that will hide the Liquid-Nails layer of glop that's been so difficult to remove. I'll drill the required holes, and use the S/S sheet metal screws that I already have here, so still another repair can be done if this happens a third time. 
So, if I just slide the splashguard back a ½-inch, that will hide the Liquid-Nails layer of glop that's been so difficult to remove. I'll drill the required holes, and use the S/S sheet metal screws that I already have here, so still another repair can be done if this happens a third time.