L-P Gauhtier
New Member
Just wondering what king of handles you guys have & what do you use to keep the boad up ... what is you bungie set up...
thx in advance
thx in advance
daggerboard handle & holder
- Thread starter L-P Gauhtier
- Start date
L-P Gauhtier
New Member
Well I just read what I wrote & I though it was a bit sketchy so here is my questions :
1- Do you have an handle on your daggerboard, if yes how is it made ?
2- How do you keep your daggerboard up (with a bungie ? how do you rig it with new system, etc.)
1- Do you have an handle on your daggerboard, if yes how is it made ?
2- How do you keep your daggerboard up (with a bungie ? how do you rig it with new system, etc.)
drLaser
Member
1- Yes I have a handle on my daggerboard. It's a briefcase handle type (upside down "U"). I drill two 12 mm diameter holes close to the top edge of the daggerboard (above a line drawn from the bottom of the centreboard stop, parallel to the top of the centreboard) and lead a thick (12 mm), fuzzy line (yacht genoa sheet) through them to make a handle.
I put a stopper knot at one end of the short piece of line, lead it through the aft hole from the port side of the daggerboard, into the forward hole from the port side again, and finish it off with another stopper knot on starboard side. This centers the handle on top of the daggerboard, in an "S" shaped plan view. The handle always stays upright. The handle should be large enough to comfortably insert your hand into with thick winter sailng gloves on.
2. I keep the daggerboard up with a shockcord. I used to use a double sided shockcord (leading from both sides of the daggerboard and the mast to the boweye). With the new vangs, I use a single strand of shockcord at the daggerboard end.
Many sailors also use just a single strand of shockcord, and they lead it from the starboard side of the mast to the bow eye. (i.e., on starboard tack, the shockcord does not catch on the vang's lower assembly unit.)
Please note that preventing the interference of the shockcord with the vang using hooks on the shockcord to pull and hook it to the gunwales anywhere between the daggerboard and the boweye has been deemed illegal for a long time. (This has been, and is unfortunately continuing to be, a common practice in Europe.)
The problem with the above sigle-strand set up is that because the "deck cleat base" (with the camcleats) sits high, the shockcord rests on top of a camcleat, and it tends to pull the daggerboard up a bit. Bad for lift while sailing upwind. Accordingly, some sailors lead the shockcord through one of the rings of the "deck block plate" (right aft of the maststep) to help center it between the two camcleats. This also prevents the shockcord from snagging the vang lower assembly unit. But on the negative side, this set up tends to pull the daggerboard back down when you lift it all the way up for running.
My current set up is a large bowline with a long tail!
The bight of the bowline is led through the bow eye and the knot made aft of the mast and just forward of the deck cleat base (when shockcord is under tension). The tail of the bowline is then led and attached to the daggerboard. Thus, this single tail part centers itself neatly between the two camcleats on the deck cleat base when the daggerboard is pushed all the way down.
Hope this helps.
Looking forward to hearing about alternatives. Fred the Keeldude had mentioned one on the Laser Mailing List some time ago.
Shevy
I put a stopper knot at one end of the short piece of line, lead it through the aft hole from the port side of the daggerboard, into the forward hole from the port side again, and finish it off with another stopper knot on starboard side. This centers the handle on top of the daggerboard, in an "S" shaped plan view. The handle always stays upright. The handle should be large enough to comfortably insert your hand into with thick winter sailng gloves on.
2. I keep the daggerboard up with a shockcord. I used to use a double sided shockcord (leading from both sides of the daggerboard and the mast to the boweye). With the new vangs, I use a single strand of shockcord at the daggerboard end.
Many sailors also use just a single strand of shockcord, and they lead it from the starboard side of the mast to the bow eye. (i.e., on starboard tack, the shockcord does not catch on the vang's lower assembly unit.)
Please note that preventing the interference of the shockcord with the vang using hooks on the shockcord to pull and hook it to the gunwales anywhere between the daggerboard and the boweye has been deemed illegal for a long time. (This has been, and is unfortunately continuing to be, a common practice in Europe.)
The problem with the above sigle-strand set up is that because the "deck cleat base" (with the camcleats) sits high, the shockcord rests on top of a camcleat, and it tends to pull the daggerboard up a bit. Bad for lift while sailing upwind. Accordingly, some sailors lead the shockcord through one of the rings of the "deck block plate" (right aft of the maststep) to help center it between the two camcleats. This also prevents the shockcord from snagging the vang lower assembly unit. But on the negative side, this set up tends to pull the daggerboard back down when you lift it all the way up for running.
My current set up is a large bowline with a long tail!
The bight of the bowline is led through the bow eye and the knot made aft of the mast and just forward of the deck cleat base (when shockcord is under tension). The tail of the bowline is then led and attached to the daggerboard. Thus, this single tail part centers itself neatly between the two camcleats on the deck cleat base when the daggerboard is pushed all the way down.
Hope this helps.
Looking forward to hearing about alternatives. Fred the Keeldude had mentioned one on the Laser Mailing List some time ago.
Shevy
My method is similar to what Shevy mentioned in that some sailors lead the shockcord through one of the deck block base rings. I have a plastic snap hook to atach it to the bow eye ring and this wouldn't go through the black base rings, but I have my mast retainer rope running through the 2 black base rings and the shockcord + clip slips easily under that then up to the boweye. As Shevy says, it helps keep the cord centered and under the vang fitting.
Alan
Alan
L-P Gauhtier
New Member
Thanks alot both of you ... I will be trying those rigs my rig is just terrible with the new system... & for the handle... is there any rule about it ?
drLaser
Member
Rule about daggerboard handle: basically, the specs I provided above.
Max two holes drilled, of max 12.5 mm diameter each.
Hole locations: above a line drawn from the bottom of the centerboard stop and parallel to the top of the centerboard.
Stick-shift type handles (using a single drilled hole) were also commonly used for ages. 2001 changes in the Class Rules (Rule 3.b.x) now render doubtful whether such a setup is as useful as before.
More details can be provided if asked in the Rules section of this Forum.
SG
Max two holes drilled, of max 12.5 mm diameter each.
Hole locations: above a line drawn from the bottom of the centerboard stop and parallel to the top of the centerboard.
Stick-shift type handles (using a single drilled hole) were also commonly used for ages. 2001 changes in the Class Rules (Rule 3.b.x) now render doubtful whether such a setup is as useful as before.
More details can be provided if asked in the Rules section of this Forum.
SG