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Which Alcort Hull years leak the least?

WICE GUY

New Member
We race Sunfish weekly on a shallow lake with underwater boulders. The newer non-Alcort models seem to be prone to developing daggerboard case cracks with recurrent leaks. What are the best Alcort model years to buy as a replacement? It seems that 1971-72 should be avoided. Any simple way to tell if an old hull leaked already?
8 4 19 JORDY & GOERDIE APPROACH TO 2ND MARK.JPG
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
Other than "'best year" I'm not sure what you're looking for. :oops:

With the Sunfish on a trailer, you could fill the hull interior with several inches of water, and see if-and-where, it leaks out.
 

WICE GUY

New Member
The newer hulls aren't built as well as the old ones (Alcort). Three seasons ago the daggerboard hit a boulder and cracked the daggerboard case causing the "new" hull to fill with water. This was repaired (with no further leaking), but has now happened again two seasons later. The older hulls (i.e. Alcort) take the boulder insults better (without causing a crack and leak) than the new ones.
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
Don't do what L&VW suggested! A bubble test is recommended instead.

Most Sunfishers believe that Vanguard hulls are pretty solid.
Unfortunately, this cannot be stated for LP (LaserPerformance) hulls, especially the current ones that are built without the internal foam supports.
 

WICE GUY

New Member
I have two boats, a Vanguard and Laser performance (LP). The latter boat developed a leak in the dagger-board case that was repaired. I switched back to the Vanguard hull which has remained the sturdy one. I repaired the LP hull and gave it to my girlfriend to race. It held up for two seasons, but it is now leaking big time again via the dagger-board case. I plan to have it repaired again for now, but I want to replace the LP hull with a Vanguard hull. Are there any years that the Vanguard had a problem with leaks or otherwise?
Thanks.
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
Finding a “better year” of boats built 50 years ago will be difficult so your idea of a Vanguard boat is a good one. Sunfish-Laser made hulls are also excellent.

The wood daggerboards used to “give” before the hull when you hit something, but the composite boards seem to hold together while damaging the hull.
 

WICE GUY

New Member
Do you think that any damage is done to a prior dagger-board case fix when righting the boat after capsize?
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
Don't do what L&VW suggested! A bubble test is recommended instead.

Most Sunfishers believe that Vanguard hulls are pretty solid.
Unfortunately, this cannot be stated for LP (LaserPerformance) hulls, especially the current ones that are built without the internal foam supports.
1) Not everybody has an inflation device that's safe for a bubble test.

2) First-timers can destroy a Sunfish hull's integrity. :eek:

3) A couple inches of water inside a level trailered hull won't contact the foam "cement".

4) Nearly everybody has a garden hose, and knows how to drain the hull after observing results.

5) "Drawing a bubble" across a daggerboard trunk involves some foresight in preparation.
 

Weston

Active Member
Do you think that any damage is done to a prior dagger-board case fix when righting the boat after capsize?
If the sail is submerged, then righting the boat takes quite a bit of effort, far more than if the sail is simply resting on the water. So, in my opinion, yes, there could be some damage done to the dagger board case if it was already weak due to previous repair.
 
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