Where to put 2nd Inspection Port

lava

Member
where should I put a second port to dry out my boat? I will put one in the front wall of the cockpit so I can add a hiking strap. If I put one behind the splash guard will there be enough air flo to dry it out? also just asking do the ports on the back deck interfere with the tiller movement? thanks Mike
 
If you already have one port on the front end of the cockpit, I would put the second one (maybe smaller) on the after deck, centered about 2" forward of the transom, and no, it will not interfere with the tiller as long as the port has a fairly flush screw in lid. You will cut through some foam under the after deck - not a problem...and it will probably be wet. Then go to Home Depot, spring $17 for a 6" dia. duct fan (120 volt). Put a 40 watt incandescent light bulb inside the hull, put the fan in one of the inspection ports, turn on the fan and let-er-dry. With the fan, you will force air into all parts of the interior and then it will exit out the other smaller port wherever it is. It will take a while, but with the heat from the lightbulb, in a few weeks, you will get a lot of water out. Then do a leak test (see FAQ on this Forum) find any leaks and plug same so you do not have to repeat the drill in a few months . Good luck

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
where should I put a second port to dry out my boat? I will put one in the front wall of the cockpit so I can add a hiking strap. If I put one behind the splash guard will there be enough air flo to dry it out? also just asking do the ports on the back deck interfere with the tiller movement? thanks Mike

You can reach the cockpit wall from a port behind the splashguard, so you don't need one on the cockpit wall also, if you don't want - one behind the splash guard would suffice for putting in a strap (do the work after you cut the hole but before you install the port).

That said, opinions are split on this, and i've gone with both alternatives. Personally I prefer behind the splash guard because I store my boats on racks or trailers deck side down, and behind the splash guard is a lower 'drain' point. On either placement I've used cubby bags for storage while sailing and in-cockpit can be marginally more convenient. The downside is if you have times when your cockpit is full of water above the port line you might experience seepage. Also I find it easier to see and sponge any water out from above than from the angle. One tip- if you use a clear plastic port then you can tell when you have moisture at glance without opening it because it will fog up from inside.

If it is a newer boat and you don't have a weight problem I'd tend to avoid the Swiss cheese look. Or project boat look. That said, I do have one old boat with three ports, but that needed a rudder conversion, too. Which gets to the point about the stern. In a newer boat I'd avoid adding a stern port unless there was a real reason, but I wouldn't hesitate if it was for a rudder conversion, or if the boat was 140 pounds or something. If I saw a stern port on a newer boat, or two forward ports, I'd assume there's been a problem. One port on the splashguard or cockpit wall wouldn't raise an eyebrow. For a serious weight problem I'd put in one behind the splash guard and one pretty far back. Too far forward on the rear deck and you hit the foam block and flow will be minimalized..or you end up removing foam...or something. Then I might even fashion some air scoops (in opposite directions) to facilitate flow while on racks or the trailer.

Generally you can put a port pretty far back on the stern without tiller interference but too far forward and it can be an annoying problem. Check to see how much clearance you have on your particular boat, though, with the rudder down in place.
 
Hi lava

Assuming your boat has the new style rudder, a port just forward of the transom is a good spot (like Alan said). It will not interfere with tiller (unless you have tiller issues) and if your boat has wooden backers for bridle eyestraps, you might need to get in there one day. Someone fix me if I'm wrong, but I think the metal backer plates came in around 1988?

If it is old style rudder you can go in just forward of the rudder deck plate, between the eyestraps.

Post some pics!

Clark Kent
 

Attachments

  • Cyane and Freebird.jpg
    Cyane and Freebird.jpg
    224.8 KB · Views: 63
  • HPIM5435.JPG
    HPIM5435.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 79
  • HPIM5369.JPG
    HPIM5369.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 67
  • Bud Stern Port.jpg
    Bud Stern Port.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 73
  • HPIM5453.JPG
    HPIM5453.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 73

Back
Top