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What's your Capri 14.2's traveler bridle height?


Active Member
I found this in an archived thread.

Since the main-sheet must be trimmed tighter as the wind increases, the traveler height must be reduced.
An approximate light air traveler height is 28", which is measured from the top of the stern to the apex of the traveler bridle. .

28" seems like an awful lot to me. Right now my traveler is set to about 18" and my boom is parallel with the boat/railing.
I fear if I increase that by an additional 10", the clew end of the boom will be higher than the tack end, and by quite a bit. Ten inches higher.

To be honest, I only just found out about setting it lower when the winds are stronger, so given I've only gone out on my 14.2 in winds above 15mph, I hope mine is set correctly.
I did tie knots on either side of the block, though I think at about 6", they may be a little too far apart.

I'm just curious what height other members have their travelers set to, and if it results in the clew being noticeably higher than the tack? I haven't seen that in pictures.

Since the foot of the sail is at a 90 degree angle to the luff, it seems like 28" would result in the pressure on your mainsail always being severely slacked.

I should add that if I did set my traveler to 28", and I cranked down on the mainsheet, my two blocks would collide before the boom came down to where it is now.


New Member
I am interested in what others have to say about the high wind configuration. I started out on boats with an adjustable backstay, so the recommended loose rig and vang-trimmed main doesn't make much sense to me.
I tried the low traveler w/ knots to keep the traveler block center approach. It did not work well. As soon as I eased the main sheet the sail went to shit, even with the vang tight. With the lack of tension on the main sheet, the mast rocked forward and made it almost impossible to point. By not adding the knots, the traveler can work, with help from the vang, to keep the boom down and rig balanced, even when you have the main eased all the way to the end of the traveler to dump excess wind.
If people have had positive experiences with the low, knotted traveler, I would love to hear about it. Are you off-setting the lack of sheet tension by tightening the shrouds? Pictures would be a big help too.

In light air, I have sailed with the 6" high traveler without knots and it seems fine. I can see the sense in using the knots to get the boom centered, but it just hasn't worked for me. Try different configurations and see what works. Please post your results. :)


New Member
I had a 14.2 and found I could get the main closer to center (thus pointing a bit higher) by just tying a loop in the bridle rather than having the moving block. I seem to recall with the bridle fixed, the main could even out-point the jib (if that makes sense) so I had to pay attention. I raced with both and seemed to do better fixed in place. I just got another 14.2 and will experiment with both again...


Yep on light air days it was nice to freeze the traveller in the middle with knots, but otherwise I'll leave mine free to run. You do get better pointing with it held in center but if encountering gusts I didn't like the feel of not getting full release that is possible when main can fully travel. And it's dicey to tie or remove the knots while underway. If somebody has a gizmo that would make this situation work I'd love to see it.


New Member
So I raced my little 14.2 for the first time last week and MAN did I forget how sensitive these little beasts are! A few comments: I added a 4:1 outhaul for the main... I'll leave the main bridle as is, fairly low and with a moving block. The main, which is in much better shape and FAR more colorful than my previous 14.2, can already out-point the jib (genny?) so I see no need to affix the mainsheet. I'll be fabricating a longer tiller and extension. I sail alone and can't get near as far forward as I need, especially downwind... speaking of which, the plastic mast ring broke the first time I poled out. I'll likely bring the tiller up to the barny-post. I'll add swivel cleats to the base of the mast for the halyards as I did on some other dinghies. Change out the halyards, jib to 3/16", main to 1/4" and add a proper cunningham. I think between weight placement and ease of use (hopefully limiting mistakes), that'll all get me about 8%-10% which may put me above mid-pack, based on my first sail. And I will NOT step on the cockpit seats if I can avoid it... at my 220lbs, their lifespan will be limited.