What's the proper way to install a stainless strap eye brackets for the hiking strap...

T

trist007

Member
I have a 1979 Sunfish. I used stainless strap eye brackets on the front and rear part within my cockpit to tie my hiking strap on. However, the front strap eye bracket keeps coming out. I drill some new holes screw it in and a month later it comes out again. I would think the proper way would be to put a small block of wood behind the front part of the cockpit to bolt some screws in. That way as you hike out the strain is on the block of wood and not the thin wall of the front cockpit. However, I can't reach the back side of the front cockpit from the inspection port, it's too far. I can barely get around the daggerboard wall.

How does one properly secure the front stainless strap eye bracket onto the front of the cockpit?

-Tristan
 
I had a similar problem replacing the bow handle on a 17-foot kayak—having to aim a bolt through six feet of narrow hull!

How about gluing a long stick to your block of wood, making it L-shaped like a golf club—and using interior wood glue. (Kind of a so-called "selfie-stick") Position the wood block where it needs to be. (A camera would likely be very handy). Then drill one hole through the cockpit wall and into block. Secure it tight with a suitably long screw, then drill the second hole, and begin assembly. After time and moisture, the "selfie-stick" will break free. Or you could use a long threaded rod, install wood block, then simply unscrew the rod from the block. I think the wood-block material of choice is mahogany, but teak should work. It might go easier if you invert the hull over two saw horses.
 
That idea is worth a shot. I've never heard of any one screwing the strap mounts into wood - everyone thru bolts, but it could work. Fancy wood isn't needed - you just need a close grained hardwood. I'tll probably get a bit damp but that is ok.
 
I'd strongly consider another inspection port and use a metal backing plate rather than wood since screws in tension into probably damp wood doesn't sound too strong. If you opt for wood I do suggest one of the more water resistant hard woods (teak is a good choice, but there are others).

However, there may be a way to use a metal plate without a second port - this will sound crazy, but it may be feasible. As I haven't been inside my Sunfish' hull, I don't know if the internal foam blocks will prevent the required access, and it's not entirely clear where your inspection port is located but it sounds like it's in front of the daggerboard slot.
  • Get a piece of galvanized steel plate that will be the backer for the strap and drill the holes for two bolts (see below about the bolts).
  • Take a metal coat hanger and unbend it (or some other stiff wire).
  • Feed that through one of the strap's screw holes in the cockpit into the hull to one side of the dagger board wall - the end of the wire needs to be reachable from the inspection port - it's going to act like a zip line for the metal plate.
  • Take the plate and, putting it through the inspection port, stick the wire through one of the screw holes in the plate.
  • Now push the plate along the wire until it gets to the back side of the cockpit's front wall. A second wire with a loop bent in the end and with that loop bent 90 degrees over can be slipped onto the other wire's end to push the plate with with.
  • You'll need the plate to rotate so that the hole not encumbered by the guide wire aligns with the other strap hole. Tilting the hull on its side would accomplish this, but it'll be quite a trick and you'll need a patient friend or two.
  • Obviously if you stick a bolt through the aligned holes there's no way to secure a nut to it. However, a molly bolt (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_(fastener)) can be used. These come in various sizes for various widths of materials and are available at any home improvement store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.). One advantage of a molly bolt is that the bolts can be removed without the backer falling off.
  • The "teeth" that are usually needed to prevent the body of the molly bolt housing from turning while the bolt is first installed will damage the fiberglass so these can be flattened out with pliers. Some grip needed, so either leave one or two teeth in place or try bending one of these teeth up and use it to grab with pliers to prevent the housing from turning.
  • The "pusher" wire will be needed to keep the backing plate from moving away from the cockpit wall until the molly bolt housing begins to fan out*. The guide wire can then be removed and the other molly bolt installed.
  • Apply some silicone caulk to waterproof the penetrations and attached the strap.
Personally before attempting this on the boat I'd try a test run of the bolt/wall/plate using a thin piece of something (plywood, plastic) to act as the cockpit wall and another metal plate, just to make sure it'll cinch down as desired.

* An alternative is to use something like an L-shaped hex wrench stuck through the aligned holes and use it to pull the plate against the cockpit wall (& vise grips to keep it there), then remove the wire and put the first molly bolt in where the wire had been.
 
trist007 said:
"...I can't reach the back side of the front cockpit from the inspection port, it's too far. I can barely get around the daggerboard wall. How does one properly secure the front stainless strap eye bracket onto the front of the cockpit?-Tristan
Click to expand...

Even though you already have one inspection port forward of the daggerboard trunk, it just occurred to me that another member suggested putting an inspection port into the forward cockpit wall itself (the bulkhead). Not only would it simplify your backing plate installation—offset—it could serve as a storage compartment for a two-piece kayak paddle plus a "window" into the condition of your daggerboard trunk.

When I next cut into the hull for an inspection port (wherever), I plan to use two "C"-shaped overlapping aluminum backing plates to bolt the inspection plate together for extra rigidity.
 
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