What size cut for inspection ports?

Hi, all.

I was in here last fall with questions about restoring a hull I acquired on the cheap, and I got very good responses. Before I could get started with the repairs, a friend brought up a concern about mold (fungus) contamination in the hull, and suggested that without killing off all the mold, any repairs would not last long. Then I got back into canoe paddling and left the project in limbo, while I attempted to find a usable Sunfish on the used market (in Idaho - fat chance) ...

Anyway - now I want to settle the matter on this hull. I will start by cutting an inspection port to get a good look inside. I see that Torreson Marine has a 5" inspection port kit. Can anyone tell me - do I cut the hole for that kit exactly 5"?

And what about this mold contamination business? Is that really a concern?
 
Steve,

Don't cut any holes in the hull untill you have the port in your hand. I prefer a 6" port between the splash rail and dagger board and if requiered, a 5" by the rudder. Once you have determined where you want your port, unscrew the lid, place it in position upside down and trace around it with a "Sharpie". You then have the correct size circle for your port. Drill a starter hole inside the line and cut directly on the line for your opening. Use a fine tooth metal blade (have a couple of spares) in your Saber/Jig Saw and you will minimize any chipping. Check for fit and file/grind/cut any tight areas. After any repairs are done (mold killing also if needed), apply some silicon (3M Marine), your screws (and washers with nuts if using machine screws) and you are done. Different brands of ports use different style screws, pan or oval/flat head, make sure you use screws that match the port or you could crack the ring.

In all of the Sunfish I have seen inside, I have not encountered any mold and have only seen one picture of the inside of a hull with "black mold" in it. Moisture is a problem with repairs, so you want the repair area as dry and as clean (wash, sand, wipe with acetone) as possible or you might need to do it over again. I do smell a musty smell in my Sunfish after water gets inside, but a day in the sun with the ports open takes care of that.
 
Wait until your new port arrives ! Most kits come with instructions. If it's barebones Beckson posts their instructions and you can get an idea from them. http://www.beckson.com/dpinstall.html but they are all a little different.

Mold usually isn't an issue once things are open and dry. Unless you live in Seattle. There, rinse out the hull with Starbucks once a week to kill anything living.
 
Steve-

Wait to cut that port... I just installed 2 and I am pretty sure that the opening is not exactly 5". Usually, you trace around the top of the lid and the "housing" fits right in. The brand that I used recommended to use a silicone sealant. Look at the sunfish sailor group on yahoo for better directions.

As far as mold, mold really only needs water, food and a place to grow. It doesn't seem that there is enough organic material in a sunfish hull for mold to thrive. However there is an exception to every rule, so you really don't know what is inside there until you can see.

You should be able to kill any mold with a little bleach though. Watch out for fumes inside the hull if you do use bleach. :eek: Like I said, I just put in 2 ports. I did have a little water inside but, no evidence of any mold.

The most important thing is finding out where the water is coming from in the first place.

Good Luck
 
I would be carefull with bleach. From what I understand bleach and fiberglass don't go together all that well. Bleach, from what I understand, has a tendency to make fiberglass brittle or turn white gel coat yellow. That being said, I have used bleach to get rid of exterior mold spots (from sitting under a tree for many years) but not letting it sit for more than 5 minutes before rinsing it off with plenty of water. Above all, if you do use bleach inside the hull, Do Not fill the hull with water to rinse, the hull can't take the weight of the water. A gallon or 2 of water sloshed around inside and drained, should be enough to rinse out the bleach. A fan (10" box fan from Wal-Mart, $5-10) placed over one of the port openings will help dry things out.
 
I think before taking any drastic action dry the inner hull and schpritz in a shot or two of Lysol spray and close it up for a couple of days.
 
Another trick is a small dog the ones that resemble some sort of white curly haired bass bait. Spray it with cleaner and drop it in the port. Play catch the noise as you make scratching sounds around the outside of the hull. Remove the pooch and rinse off the green slime. Repeat until the hound comes back out about the same color as he went in.
 
could someone please post a link to an inexpensive source for 6" inspection ports? I was not successful in my search for one (probably using wrong words)
thanks, Mark
 
Helpful hint, The very best blade to cut the hull with for a sabre/jigsaw is a carbide blade. You should be able to find them in the tile section at home depot etc.... or the tool section. It has a carbide particle cutting edge and no teeth on the blade. It's designed for tile. They cut thru the fberglass like butter and the cuts are nice and smooth.
 
could someone please post a link to an inexpensive source for 6" inspection ports? I was not successful in my search for one (probably using wrong words)
thanks, Mark

Just click on the Annapolis Performance Sailing banner at the top of the forum page, type inspection port
into the search box, and viola, you will see a choice of ports, including 6" ones.:)
 
Thanks for the info, guys! I'll order that inspection port now. One step at a time...

Oh yeah - I already have required canine for suggested cleaning...;)
 
I'd echo those who have advised to wait until you have the inspection port in hand until cutting a hole in the deck for it. I used a saber/jig saw with a metal-cutting blade (small teeth) and it went very smoothly.

Nate
 

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