What do i do to get out really small scratches in my daggerboard and rudder?

Thread starter #1
What should i use to get out the natural scratches in my centerboard and rudder?
I want to make them REALLY smooth like a new one.
Thanks,
Connor5002
 
#2
A little wet sanding will fix them. Just make sure you don't wet sand your daggerboard above the water line, or else it will be loose as hell in your trunk.

The finish on new blades isn't actually that great.
 
#3
To completely refinish them I use gelcoat and spray it and wetsand it. It comes out impeccable. If you're not realy proficent in gelcoat repair, I'd stick to either just wetsanding or using an epoxy paint and then wetsanding.

I'm not sure about the legality of using an epoxy paint... but it looks really really close to the original finish and should be fine for club racing.
 
#4
If you make your centreboard really smooth won't you slid off when you're trying to recover from a capsize ? I thought you were supposed to rough up a new centreboard for this reason.

Rich.
 
#7
How do i wet sand it and with what grit sandpaper??
Well, you could use some 2500. You might need some 1500 depending on how bad the scratches are.

You just put water on the board and/or dip the sand paper in water. I'd recommend doing both. Make sure you rinse the paper regularly.
 
#11
Some people suggest painting with a slightly different color so fairness can be seen when sanding. If only slight scratches there are probably two approaches. One is to use an epoxy paint that will resist scratches (but is very hard to sand to a smooth finish)

The other approach is two-fold. First use an acrylic spray can that can be easily re-applied to patch scratches quickly (week to week if necessary) and second, check the centreboard trunk -it may be causing the scratches.

I sail a lot on a lake where the beach has granite sand that really scratces if it somehow gets in the trunk and there is weed that somehow attracts grit and scratches the board each time you raise it for a reach.

Overall the acrylic spray can seems the best compromise because I can rub out scratches using auto cutting compound or brasso (metal polish) between races if necessary and when needed (cover coat gets too thin) I can patch the board during the week with a quick spray and then wet and dry followed by cutting compound buffing the next day.

The 3M tapes used by the Musto Performance Skiff to line the centre case may be a better solution but seem to be illegal at present for Lasers.
 
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