upgrading old rigging one piece at a time

[singletrack_mind]

I have a 1979 Laser in solid shape, but some of the rigging really needs to be replaced so it will work correctly. First order of business is the clew strap/out-haul. It would be novel for me to have an outhaul system that worked & could be adjusted under way. I like the look of the Harken-style clew hook, but I am wondering: If I go with that piece, will I have to buy a lot of other stuff? I am assuming the original line will be too big to pass through the block on the clew hook, so I'd be on to new smaller line, which won't work in the old cleat on the boom . . .

It looks like I would need a few blocks and some new line, and all's well until I come through a new bock tied to the mast at the gooseneck & down toward the deck. I will then have to get deck mounted blocks and cleats, yes? Is there a logical way to rig that avoids this or is it really best for me to upgrade the cunningham now as well and fit all that deck hardware? It looks to get pricey.

Yes, I need a new Vang as well, and badly, but not just now.

 

[jeffers]

You can easily upgrade the cunningham just using a few blocks and some new line. Whilst it will not flow quite as nicely as having the new deck plates it will be a big improvement over any rope loop arrangement you may have.

I find with the outhaul I tend to set and forget. This is because I sail on restricted water and you will lose more than you will gain by messing around with it because the legs are so short.

I have the Harken clew hook and block and use a 4 mm rope in it with no issues. This flows nicely enough and looks more secure than the vectran (and similar) lines (I had a vectran one that came off twice before I changed the way i dead ended the rope, the current rope has never come off).

I would say though that unless you have the new style deck cleats you are never going to be able to easily adjust the outhaul on the water.

 

[singletrack_mind]

I should point out that I have little opportunity or inclination to race, so I am more interested in simple, functional rigging that will allow me to actually use all my potential sail controls so I can improve my sailing. right now I can sail the boat, but the main sheet's the only real "control" (and traveler tension). So, being able to adjust the outhaul on the go would be beneficial, but whether I gain or loose time in a race situation is immaterial.

This also means I am not bound by racing rules: if I can simplify my rigging while improving it's function I will, even if it's not within the letter of the rule.

 

[jeffers]

In that case look at what Laser offer then look around for equivalent parts. There was a post on here recently that had a double cam cleat arrangement on it bu it used the same fixing points as a single cam cleat. You can then always tie 2 blocks on to the existing fairlead on the deck. If you fo this make sure you tie the mast on though as if the cunningham line lets get and you capsize there is nothing to stop the mast from falling out.

 

[Stephen_Green]

This is what I did on club boats.

Get 4" square x half inch thick oak/teak/mahogany or nylon block, buy another Clamcleat same as the current Cunningham cleat; mount both on the block with screws and nuts and screw to the deck using existing screws and holes. If you use wood, the grain has to be across the boat.

Buy 2 'P' clips to mount pulley blocks on the current Cunningham fairlead holes. If you want to change between different rigs, attach a pulley to a 'S' hook and hook it into the gooseneck tooling hole for the outhaul, rather than tying it to the mast. Needs a bit sawn off to get it in easily

You can add more pulleys to the kicker/vang but it is always going to turn with the mast so make access difficult when off the wind. I did also convert the existing lower pulley to mount a cam cleat as better than original and much cheaper than the new designs.

Hope that help your sailing and wallet.

 

[singletrack_mind]

This is what I did on club boats.
I did also convert the existing lower pulley to mount a cam cleat as better than original and much cheaper than the new designs.

Hope that help your sailing and wallet.

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of this by any chance?

 

[MiLLz]

You can eliminate the deck cleats if cost is an issue. It is more important to lead the outhaul down to the deck. You could do the this many different ways, but to me they all cost about the same. I did it using a double pad eye and block combination, which I sourced for something like $20 from Intensity sails. This is not a race legal part, but the cost is about 50% of the builder supplied part. Once you do that, you will be able to trim easily. To release, sail close hauled, grab the line as it comes out of the boom cleat and pull up. You can "over release" and then re trim from the deck mounted line if needed. If the line starts to drop, just give it a tug from the deck to take out the slack. The cunningham runs through the second block, and is cleated with the stock clam cleat.

To improve the kicker I used a $15 vang swivel which is easily found on the internet. This part allows adjustment the vang at points of sail other than close hauled. There are many different methods on the internet to rig purchase systems within the stock boom vang- try them out before you go for the pricey upgrade.

 

[Stephen_Green]

Here are two pics of the cam cleat mounting, using two alluminium strips with diagonal bends. The dimensions will depend on the size of the cam cleat used. The original jambing section has been cut away.
Bolt on the strips and adjust the angle of them to suit, and secure using a self tapping screw.

This also has a loop added to link additional blocks, using 4mm screw through the centre of the pully shaft.

I've also added pics of the 'P' clips and Clamcleat mounting block.

 

[203]

Stephen,

Nice photos, good thinking. Appreciate your input.