To fix or not to fix

do you think the money of a sale would be worth the time and effort

  • yes go for it

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • no dont recommend

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0

jpjanke

Member
We were just given 2 sunfish, one hull is just dirty, the other is pretty beat up but tight.
Neither one seems to be heavy, both are missing drain plugs

Mast and booms are great, missing 1 mast bottom.
Have 3 rudder/tillers, 3 dagger boards. need varnish
Might need a new set of sail rings, main sheet and halyard.
one sail is fair, the other one has been blessed.
I would like to be able to sell one, and use the money to buy a new sail for the other.
Is it worth it?
My last sunfish was given to me new, when I was 12, That is 47 years ago.
 
Depends where you live, the going rate of a fixer upper in your area and how much of your time do you want to invest.
You might also do good on a trade.
 
We live in North Carolina, on Kerr Lake, Love fixing old things, so time spent would be enjoyable. Just brought them home today, researching the prices now, but the season is all but over, so prices are at the bottom I would guess. Any suggestions on how to find out pricing on fixer uppers in my area?
 
thanks was just there, 1450 to 250. some repainted look great if the paint holds,
have to be careful not to make all the time I spend online,
2 mahogany rudders and dagger boards need some TLC.
but I need to learn more about where to find the numbers, and manufacturer, seems big difference between Alcort and AMF,
Thanks for your help.
 
The deck drain might have been filled.

Since they are considered "one design" there isn't a big difference in the boats
In the early 70's they opened up the back of the cockpit with the cubby hole and early 80's did away with the metal edge for the rolled edge. And at some point in there upgraded the rudder.

Other then that everything else is mostly cosmetic.
Before the Feds stepped in and required molded in hull numbers (I think 72, but I forget stuff, old mind disease) the number was on a plate riveted to the deck behind the coming.

They used to build them down the road from me and half my club are retired employees
 
JP,

I have used Sunfish drain plug assemblies for $10 a set + postage. Most Sunfish had deck drains with a screw-in cap on the starboard side of the deck just about opposite of where the splash rail meets the edge of the deck. Installation is easy; just drill a hole in the deck and mount the bailer with a ring of 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk and tap in two set pins. Let me know if you want one or more.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

p.s. I used to sail on Kerr Lake when I was in the AF and attending grad school at NC State in 1966. I sailed a 14' wood Rhodes Bantam out of a state launch near
Kolagia (sp) Point. Great fun!
L1010520-1.JPG
 
thanks was just there, 1450 to 250. some repainted look great if the paint holds, have to be careful not to make all the time I spend online, 2 mahogany rudders and dagger boards need some TLC.
but I need to learn more about where to find the numbers, and manufacturer, seems big difference between Alcort and AMF,
and I cant find a drain plug hole in one hull. Thanks for your help.
Oftentimes, what appears to a genuine Sunfish is a copy, but there are excellent "copies". :)

A genuine Sunfish sail should have a Sunfish logo. A desirable racing sail will have a large number on it, and a clear plastic "window".

Using Google, the letters in the hull identification number will direct you to the manufacturer. The hull identification number is located on the upper-right transom (US number required since 1971 —Canada's number requirement, mandates a duplicate number that is hidden from sight, came in 1981).

You're right, the end of the season is a poor time to sell; however, even in season, I didn't pay more than $300 for any of my three genuine late-70s Sunfish. The best one came with a trailer! :cool: (And paid $125 for a decent (but very heavy) Porpoise II—a copy with identical parts—and sold after a few years for $300).

Replacing the daggerboard, rudder/tiller, and sail would run about $150 each, so even a trashed Sunfish is worth $350 in used parts. Keep the best parts, and sell the rest. Craigslist is your friend, but learn how to identify respondents who "trade" in forged bank checks, and who are after your email address. :( My CL messages arrive by text, most of which I delete at first glance. :cool:

The Sunfish "bottom" I take to be the plastic cap, which is available from this forum's sponsors for less than $15. A new set of sail rings is similarly priced. Halyards and main sheet prices vary by quality.
 
Thanks for the input.
Good thing to know about the forums sponsor.
One hull is from 78, need to clean up the other one a bit more to see it. Both start with AMF
What would you recommend as the best varnish to use on the wood.
 
JP,

I have used Sunfish drain plug assemblies for $10 a set + postage. Most Sunfish had deck drains with a screw-in cap on the starboard side of the deck just about opposite of where the splash rail meets the edge of the deck. Installation is easy; just drill a hole in the deck and mount the bailer with a ring of 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk and tap in two set pins. Let me know if you want one or more.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

p.s. I used to sail on Kerr Lake when I was in the AF and attending grad school at NC State in 1966. I sailed a 14' wood Rhodes Bantam out of a state launch near
Kolagia (sp) Point. Great fun!View attachment 21451
Water Rat..Alan..my drain plug..screw in type with coin or screw driver is frozen solid and soaking it in various fluids for a month fails to budge it. How do I replace that thing?
 
Not sure about the varnish. Mine is in a pint-can with a green label. :confused:

Water Rat..Alan..my drain plug..screw in type with coin or screw driver is frozen solid and soaking it in various fluids for a month fails to budge it. How do I replace that thing?
Before you give up, drill a 1/8" hole through the plug. Spray PB-Blaster into the hole to loosen from the inside. If that works, remove the plug, and solder the hole back up. :cool: Reinstall with three turns of Teflon (PTFE) tape to eliminate thread corrosion.

Otherwise, there should be two tiny pins visible which can be driven through—and out—releasing the drain.
 
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Not sure about the varnish. Mine is in a pint-can with a green label. :confused:


Before you give up, drill a 1/8" hole through the plug. Spray PB-Blaster into the hole to loosen from the inside. If that works, remove the plug, and solder the hole back up. :cool: Reinstall with three turns of Teflon (PTFE) tape to eliminate thread corrosion.

Otherwise, there should be two tiny pins visible which can be driven through—and out—releasing the drain.
just logged in to ask the same question. Thanks for the help with a frozen drain plug.
 
Oftentimes, what appears to a genuine Sunfish is a copy, but there are excellent "copies". :)

A genuine Sunfish sail should have a Sunfish logo. A desirable racing sail will have a large number on it, and a clear plastic "window".

Using Google, the letters in the hull identification number will direct you to the manufacturer. The hull identification number is located on the upper-right transom (US number required since 1971 —Canada's number requirement, mandates a duplicate number that is hidden from sight, came in 1981).

You're right, the end of the season is a poor time to sell; however, even in season, I didn't pay more than $300 for any of my three genuine late-70s Sunfish. The best one came with a trailer! :cool: (And paid $125 for a decent (but very heavy) Porpoise II—a copy with identical parts—and sold after a few years for $300).

Replacing the daggerboard, rudder/tiller, and sail would run about $150 each, so even a trashed Sunfish is worth $350 in used parts. Keep the best parts, and sell the rest. Craigslist is your friend, but learn how to identify respondents who "trade" in forged bank checks, and who are after your email address. :( My CL messages arrive by text, most of which I delete at first glance. :cool:

The Sunfish "bottom" I take to be the plastic cap, which is available from this forum's sponsors for less than $15. A new set of sail rings is similarly priced. Halyards and main sheet prices vary by quality.
Thanks Light and Variable Winds, Hubby and I have discussed this, we are going to follow your suggestion. We have too many projects going now to start another. The boat is for fun, so we are keeping the best of the boats and equipment and will be selling the rest. The better sail is not official, but it only has one small tear. The tiller I missing an extension but that will be a piece of cake to make. So off to Craigs list I go, with a hull, mast, spars, 2 rudder/tillers, 2 dagger boards and one beat up old Sunfish sail. Wish us luck. Now to find out how to properly clean the hull we are keeping, and getting the drain plug open. Amazed at the difference with just some dish soap and water. Thanks again
 

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