Time for a new sail?

Bman

Bman

New Member
How do you tell when its time for a new sail and what would a new sail do for me. Mine is original from 1969. It has small (less than 1/4 inch) holes that have been patched. The sail, when still, hangs about level with the spar. Does this mean its stretched out? My sailing is pure recreational on a small lake.
 
I replaced my sail last year. My old sail was a Ratsey and Lapthorn sail which was so soft you could use it as a bed sheet. The sail was still useable but I decided to replace it with an Intensity Sail practice race sail and I'm extremely happy with it. The sail just performs much better. It's more fully cut so it's able to provide more sail power and is just plain fun. I was also concerned that the old sail would tear while I was on the water which would ruin a beautiful sailing day!
 
For racers, the decision is easy - after a few seasons of aggressive racing, a race sail gets the "slows" as the cloth begins to break down and the draft begins to move around. For recreational sailors, you can use a sail a lot longer, but at some point the cloth will break down and even rip. If your sail blows out miles from home, you have a long paddle home. I am guessing that your 1969 sail is at the end of its useful life. If you race, you have to use a Sunfish class legal sail that costs about $450. If you do not race, you can buy an aftermarket sail from Intensity, Neil Pryde, Kevane etc. These sails cost about $150, and the
consensus is that the Intensity is the best buy. Be a little careful about buying some of the Chinese made Sunfish sails sold on e-bay as little seems to be known about their quality. You will notice that your new sail is stiffer and will "crackle" for a few months until the cloth softens a bit, but you will also notice a speed increase and it may be easier to sail in heavy air as the sail will have the draft in the right places.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
I back up Alan. Intensity is the best buy, and very likely the best quality. I have seen a Kevane sail that had terrible wrinkles and was flat as a board. Pryde's at one point, and maybe still do, have small windows with heavy reinforcement, making it hard to see through. Many aftermarket sails do not have a Sunfish logo on them. You can buy a nice authorized Sunfish sail from the dealer, but they run in the mid $300s. BB
 
Some older sails, with gentle use and care, last for a long time. We have had a Fiesta Sunrise sail going on 20+ years and it is soft as butter, it feels solid and slick but it is not dry rotted. It does the trick. We also picked up a Ratsey Lapthorn sail that has quality material that is still strong and "buttery." They don't have the extra draft cut into the foot or the luff, but they are good recreational sails. I think one key for your sail is the material condition, are you getting little rips around the corners or along the leech?
Your other option is a pre owned sail, class legal with Sunfish logo and lots of life left. I'd only try that if you knew you could return it, in case it showed up and your old sail was in just as good condition.
 
I replaced my 1969 sail, which had a few small patched holes with the Intensity practice race sail last year. The window alone made it worth while, especially handy sailing out through a crowded harbor with lots of moored boats to avoid.
 
New sail is here. What, if anything, should I do to clean and prep the boom and spar before attaching the sail?
 
Stache,

Aluminum sailboat spars tend to get stains and scratches from use and oxidation. If you want to clean them up a little,
get some very fine steel wool and a little paint thinner. Dab the steel wool in the thinner and then steel wool the spars, Rinse with fresh water and install the new sail.

Alan Glos
 
Thanks Alan. I have an aversion to using steel wool because those nasty little fibers always seem to show up as rusty reminders. How about a fine grade of Scotch Brite?
 
Stache,

Sure, a Scotch Brite pad will work fine, but if you use steel wool and clean it off with a lot of water, you will not get the little rust strands that even very small strands of steel wool generate.

Alan Glos
 
I was impressed by the condition of my latest Sunfish purchase—particularly the condition of the spars. Upon closer examination, I found a number of corrosion points under the sail clips. This was a saltwater boat, and stored within a half-mile of saltwater beaches. It was only where the salt was hidden that actual pitting took place. I'd recommend that boats, sails, and spars get an especially good rinse after saltwater use.
 

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