Thank you for help and getting boat sail ready questions

Thread starter #1
Thank you!
As you know in my previous thread I was asking for information regarding getting parts or buying a 2nd hand sunfish. Officially I am now a proud owner of a 2nd hand Vanguard Sailboats/LaserPerformance Sunfish including a trailer . Thanks to your advice and support I was able to make the steps in order to get the boat I wished for. I would like to thank you all those who helped me in my previous thread. I just made one giant leap forward. In order to start sailing again I need to get the boat sail ready. I hope this will not take too much work, so I have some questions and hoping you can get me back at sailing a.s.a.p.

Questions
1a. The lower boom is a little bit bent where the goosneck starts. I've seen somebody bent it straight by putting it on a tree, but don't know if this is best way. Perhaps I should not even do this.
lowerboombent.jpg
1b. Also a sail ring is missing yet (see picture) I believe this has been done on purpose to protect sail from scratching sail.
1c. While I am asking this I would also like to know at what spot I should put goosenneck. Remember I am not racing yet, just want to start sailing first.
2. Also on the lowerboom I noticed the eyestrap near the gooseneck is a bit loose and also has some tiny tears already. I would love to know how to fix this properly. I made a picture of the current situation. Currently this is my biggest concern.
IMG-20130318-01358.jpg
3. Not sure if it needs to fixed already but perhaps I can. The eyestrap at the main sheet swivelblock has some tears. Not that is is loose or something but just looks like it is going to continue to tear. Wondering that perhaps there is a easy way of fixing/protecting it from tearing any further. The left side seems to have more tears then right side.
IMG-20130318-01347.jpg IMG-20130318-01348.jpg
4. Last this is the upper en lowerboom seems to have wires connected on sail. But it seems like a mess. Wondering the best way of connecting this properly. See pictures for both sides.
IMG-20130318-01360.jpg IMG-20130318-01362.jpg

I hope I don't ask too many questions at once. I would love to see pictures of possible instructions if possible. Please bear with me since I do not have all the expert knowledge on fixing boats and parts yet. But these were the first things I noticed and would like your expertise for.
 
Thread starter #2
Somebody suggested me to fix question number 2 with welding. No idea if it is a good idea but it sounds very strong if done properly. Anybody an opinion about this?
 

sailcraftri

Well-Known Member
#3
1a. I have re bent spars by gently setting up against a trailer or object and pressing down on opposite direction of bend. Be very careful, apply pressure slowly. You could also set up a rope with a weight to hold in place for a while to get bend out.

1b. Perhaps it was in the way of the gooseneck. Make sure you position the gooseneck where you want it then see if a new sail ring will not interfere.

1c. Usually anywhere from 17-23 inches. So try half these distances, say 20 inches.

2. The tube is very thin wall so welding may not help here. You could just relocate the eye strap with new holes and rivets, then rivet the old holes as well. An alternative would be to thru bolt the eye strap.

3. These are stress cracks in the gelcoat. You can remove the block and eye strap, sand the gelcoat, and re gelcoat. Most likely the cracks will reappear. These are most likely in the gelcoat only. I use a thin soft material under the eye strap to keep the block from scratching the deck. Perhaps if you did this, what you don't see (meaning covering up the stress cracks), won't bother you.

4. it appears the the white rope is a kevlar type of rope core. This was probably used because of it's low stretch properties. Not sure why the shackle at the tack but this was most likely a race boat and the previous owner wanted the tack further away from the boom connections. The Sunfish usually has a "s" hook here and no rope or shackle.
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
#4
I would leave the boom alone. And pray that it will last. Bending it back may well break the boom because of corrosion at that particular position (different metals and a salty environment).

Don't worry about the missing sail ring; leave it as is, because this will allow you to readily change the gooseneck position.

The sail can be tied to the tack (eyelets) with either an S-hook or a simple piece of (non-stretch) line. Get rid of the shackle (?); it just complicates things.

The eyestrap on the boom does worry me, but I don't know how to fix that. Perhaps another eyestrap at a slightly different location? Eyestraps can actually be tied down with line, I have read.

The crazing in the gelcoat where the mainsheet block is attached to the eyestrap doesn't seem too serious. It looks like the previous owner used too much force to tighten the screws.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#5
Hi Cal
I'll throw this out, see what the crowd thinks...you might take the lower spar and swap ends, move gooseneck to other end, re rivet eyestraps and swap end caps. Other option is to buy a new upper spar and transfer your hardware onto it, save a few $$. I have unbent a few spars, but that area looks touchy.

You can put new rivets in your boom eyestraps

Take off the rats nest of line on the sail, and erring using the rigging manual: http://na.laserperformance.com/images/stories/pdfs/sunfish/sunfishrigging.pdf

Looks like a nice boat
Kent
 
Thread starter #6
1a. I have re bent spars by gently setting up against a trailer or object and pressing down on opposite direction of bend. Be very careful, apply pressure slowly. You could also set up a rope with a weight to hold in place for a while to get bend out.

1b. Perhaps it was in the way of the gooseneck. Make sure you position the gooseneck where you want it then see if a new sail ring will not interfere.

1c. Usually anywhere from 17-23 inches. So try half these distances, say 20 inches.

2. The tube is very thin wall so welding may not help here. You could just relocate the eye strap with new holes and rivets, then rivet the old holes as well. An alternative would be to thru bolt the eye strap.

3. These are stress cracks in the gelcoat. You can remove the block and eye strap, sand the gelcoat, and re gelcoat. Most likely the cracks will reappear. These are most likely in the gelcoat only. I use a thin soft material under the eye strap to keep the block from scratching the deck. Perhaps if you did this, what you don't see (meaning covering up the stress cracks), won't bother you.

4. it appears the the white rope is a kevlar type of rope core. This was probably used because of it's low stretch properties. Not sure why the shackle at the tack but this was most likely a race boat and the previous owner wanted the tack further away from the boom connections. The Sunfish usually has a "s" hook here and no rope or shackle.
I would leave the boom alone. And pray that it will last. Bending it back may well break the boom because of corrosion at that particular position (different metals and a salty environment).

Don't worry about the missing sail ring; leave it as is, because this will allow you to readily change the gooseneck position.

The sail can be tied to the tack (eyelets) with either an S-hook or a simple piece of (non-stretch) line. Get rid of the shackle (?); it just complicates things.

The eyestrap on the boom does worry me, but I don't know how to fix that. Perhaps another eyestrap at a slightly different location? Eyestraps can actually be tied down with line, I have read.

The crazing in the gelcoat where the mainsheet block is attached to the eyestrap doesn't seem too serious. It looks like the previous owner used too much force to tighten the screws.
I have to say your intuition was spot on Sailcrafti. The boat was indeed used for racing. Sailcrafti and Wavedancer thank you for your suggestions and help.

1a. Since I am not that experienced yet I have to agree with Wavedancer to leave the lower boom as is. I do like the trailer idea, never would of thought of that. Perhaps when I sailed a couple of times I will take the risk knowing I can buy another one. But it sounds like it would not do any harm if I continue to sail with it as is.
1b. Think sailcrafti is correct about this, yet I am not the expert on this. I will try your 20 inches suggestion. Since the boat was intended for race Wavedancer could be correct it was used to move the goosneck. Yet I am having a very hard time moving the gooseneck.
1.c See 1b
2. But welding still might be an option or is this out of the question? Is there an instruction on how to move the rivet? I have never done this before, so I will need to be very careful.
3. What is precisely a thin soft material you are talking about?
4. Spot on about the racing. I assume it would be best to start with a "s" hook then.
 
Thread starter #7
Hi Cal
I'll throw this out, see what the crowd thinks...you might take the lower spar and swap ends, move gooseneck to other end, re rivet eyestraps and swap end caps. Other option is to buy a new upper spar and transfer your hardware onto it, save a few $$. I have unbent a few spars, but that area looks touchy.

You can put new rivets in your boom eyestraps

Take off the rats nest of line on the sail, and erring using the rigging manual: http://na.laserperformance.com/images/stories/pdfs/sunfish/sunfishrigging.pdf

Looks like a nice boat
Kent
Sound like a very creative solution, but it could work indeed. Perhaps something more for the future since I don't have that much experience in fixing boats etc. Thank you for the rigging manual and the compliment for my boat.
 
Thread starter #8
I talked to a welder today and he says the thinks he can do it, but of course has to take a closer look at it before. He says he did it before in the past with success but every case is different. I will bring the lower boom to him and get his opinion about it and inform you all about it.

Then weigh my options. Thank again all
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#9
If you have to move the block you need drill, drill bits, rivets, rivet gun. Drill the center part of the rivet heads off. Use a 1/8 inch drill bit. Buy 1/8 inch rivets. Move eyestrap to new position, put rivet in gun, insert into new pilot holes, squeeze handle until rivet mandrel shears off.
 

Attachments

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#11
For recreational sailing Put the gooseneck around 24 inches and the halyard about 60 inches down from the top of the upper spar (5-6) sail rings down. As you're tying the halyard it will be close to being lined up with the aft edge of the cockpit. Then you rig will look lie the picture and you can adjust to suit your wind. This rig leaves room to comfortably tack wearing a life jacket.
 

Attachments

Thread starter #12
Signal Charlie thank you for the precise instructions including pictures and video's. Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words, video I probably can't count ;) . Have to look how I could possibly get my hands on or somebody that might have a gun to put in the rivet. Any suggestion what I should to with the old eyestrap? Take it off and close the holes?

Deleted my thank you between your instructions because I have to continue saying thank you for the elaborate en precise instructions. Also Wavedancer and Sailcrafti for your tips and tricks. Every day getting a step closer to sailing again thanks to you all.
 
Thread starter #13
Update
- Nr. 3 is no longer a issue anymore. :)

Got some more questions:

4. Where can I get this (hook) part and name of part? I am talking about the part between the sail en the interlocking eyebolds. Maybe there is a better picture? This part seems to missing, but I bet there is a cheap alternative.
hook.jpg
5. I'm going to create the following dagger-board retainer since the shop here is out of stock with almost anything. Assume this is a good alternative for time being.
Bungee Cord 1.jpg
6. I have a Cleat on the mast, yet I don't intend to use this yet. On the forum I can read it reduces the amount power being put on the halyard bullseye fairlead and the main halyard Cleat, but not sure about this and wondering how to properly use a mast cleat. I have to wait anyway because this cleat is a little loose. Will fix it though in the future. But I still would like to know how to properly use this.
7. As suggested before a bowline (p1) is a easy and cheap alternative, yet would a removable traveler block (p2) or main sheet snap (p3) a better alternative or is just luxury?
bowline.jpg Removable Traveler Block SNF43508.jpg Mainsheet Snap 43501.jpg
 

sailcraftri

Well-Known Member
#14
Halyard cleat on mast reduces compression load on mast and hence fairlead for halyard. If you use the mast cleat you still need to take tail of halyard thru fairlead and halyard cleat on deck so you don't loose the mast in a capsize.

"S" hook is need at tack of sail but if you can't get one locally, just use rope.

Yes a block or snap will reduce wear on the mainsheet as it slides across the traveler.
 
Thread starter #15
Halyard cleat on mast reduces compression load on mast and hence fairlead for halyard. If you use the mast cleat you still need to take tail of halyard thru fairlead and halyard cleat on deck so you don't loose the mast in a capsize.

"S" hook is need at tack of sail but if you can't get one locally, just use rope.
Yes a block or snap will reduce wear on the mainsheet as it slides across the traveler.
Thank you for the answers Sailcraftri. What are the dimensions of the "S" hook? Perhaps I can get it at a hardware store? Indeed rope would be a good alternative.
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
#16
The S-hook just has to fit the eyebolt and the tack grommet in the sail. You should be able to get one (stainless!) at the hardware store. But I use non-stretch line.

As far as tying the mainsheet to the traveler, the snaphook is what generations of Sunfish sailors have used. Depending on its age, it may open up inadvertently.
 
Thread starter #17
The S-hook just has to fit the eyebolt and the tack grommet in the sail. You should be able to get one (stainless!) at the hardware store. But I use non-stretch line.

As far as tying the mainsheet to the traveler, the snaphook is what generations of Sunfish sailors have used. Depending on its age, it may open up inadvertently.
Thank you Wavedancer. I bought eventually the snaphook. Everything except for the mast cleat is completely fixed. Tomorrow I am going to sail for the first time in years again. Thank you all for the support suggestions and tips. Would have taken a lot longer without your help. I'll try to make some pictures tomorrow :cool: .
 
#18
this picture does a pretty good job of explaining how to use the cleat on the mast. raise the sail, and then tie off the halyard at the mast cleat. continue the halyard down and through the fairlead on the deck (this will keep the mast from slipping out if you flip the boat over). if you want to use boom vang, then run the halyard up and over the gooseneck, and back through the deck fairlead again. then run the halyard back to the horn cleat on the deck.

 
Thread starter #19
Thank you Tag. A very clear description and instructions how to use the mast cleat. Sounds nothing else then the usual rigging.

I've been sailing now for 2 days. Getting use the knots and rigging the boat took a while, but I managed eventually. First day of sailing went pretty good. I did not go very long but enjoyed it. Once I fell on purpose for practice to see if I could manage to getting the boat back up, and it was pretty easy. A 2nd time I fell again, the boat was pretty full with water and I responded late so I fell and did the trick again. After this I went back to clean up the boat because it was getting late. I loved the homemade daggerboard retainer. It worked like a charm.

2nd day I decided to go with a 2nd person. This was even more fun. I learn from the first time how to prepare the rigging and everything in a faster way. Did notice going with somebody takes a bit of getting used to doing everything coordinated, but we managed. And yes I fell again, but this time in shallow water. The mast got a little stuck, but I managed to dive down shake and push it a bit and then pushed with my weight the sword down and there it went again. Reason we fell was because the 2nd person was already pulling the main sheet before I got to the other side and so the boat was pulled to the side and we fell. Another thing that was very annoying is the main sheet snap. It got loose for 3 times at very annoying moments. I think I will stop using this item and use bow line only. After battling the wind we relaxed a bit a beach and went back with the wind in our backs which was a very smooth and relaxing way of going back. I did notice when I finally came back the mast had some water in it but I got it all out. The upper en lower boom seemed like it also got some water inside, but strange enough I can't manage to get the water out of it. Perhaps anybody can share their experience and knowledge about this? Besides loosing 2 sail rings in the process we both enjoyed the sailing and even got a nice tan in the process including some free exercise. Only thing was that my hands were a bit tired and scratched. Will be getting the gloves I had in the past again saving me some blisters ;)

PS I did notice a little chip is missing in the front of the boat. Wondering if there is a easy way to fix this.
 
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