Sunfish mast

Webfoot1

Active Member
#61
IMG_1288.JPG Made a first attempt at using SCH 40 for a mast. Cost $9.00 and comes in 10 foot length. The good news is the mast
cap fits nicely, not so good new is it's really bendy without something inside to stiffen it up. It's back to the home improvement store to scout out Componet X to insert in the tube. I could do SCH 80 but SCH 40 is already heavy. Gotta find something $25 dollars or less or the project does not make sense.
 
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Webfoot1

Active Member
#63
So close but yet so far... A 2 inch oak mast is going to be one heavy son-of-a-gun.
I'm thinking about ripping 10 foot strips of wood and inserting a "+" shaped internal cross bracing.
As you can see, I like 550 para-chord. If all else fails I'll rig some mast stays from 550 without
making any modifications to the hull.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#64
So close but yet so far... A 2 inch oak mast is going to be one heavy son-of-a-gun. I'm thinking about ripping 10 foot strips of wood and inserting a "+" shaped internal cross bracing. As you can see, I like 550 para-chord. If all else fails I'll rig some mast stays from 550 without making any modifications to the hull.
How are you going to attach chain-plates without making any modifications to the hull? :confused:

Even 2" PVC will take a bend (and take a "set") when left in the sun or a hot car. :oops: A steady approach to modifications would mean you could return the 2" PVC to Lowes. :)

A 10' spar "orphan" (and structural foam) would be my next step. The risk of a permanent bend would be much reduced. Two shorter "orphans" could be joined (and more easily shipped from Cazenovia, NY) ;) to make a 10' section.

Alternatively, an engineer-friend says an available Styrofoam "noodle" can be covered with epoxied fiberglass cloth. :cool: Stronger and lighter? :)
 
#65
The pool noodles are oversize for the mast step of the Sunfish.... then add thickness of fiberglass needed to make it rigid and strong enough for the task.
By the time the home manufactured fiberglass coated pool noodle is strong enough you might think the oak inserted PVC is light.
 

Webfoot1

Active Member
#66
Yep, I'm already concerned about the weight as the tube stands empty. Fiberglass crossed my
mind but that kind of blows my objective of keeping it cheep. I might try two strips of fiberglass
running up each outside of the tube to see how much stiffness it adds. Than along with internal
strips of wood might be just enough. No chain-plates as that removes the "temporary" from the solution.
Maybe a couple c-clamps or something adhoc like that.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#67
The pool noodles are oversize for the mast step of the Sunfish.... then add thickness of fiberglass needed to make it rigid and strong enough for the task.
By the time the home manufactured fiberglass coated pool noodle is strong enough you might think the oak inserted PVC is light.
Styrofoam comes in a standard 2" round, straight, form. (Not a polyethylene pool noodle—too fat, and to which—fiberglass wouldn't stick). :confused:

Without some way of anchoring the fiberglass to PVC, I don't think the epoxy/fiberglass would stay attached for very long. :(

(But you could still return the PVC to Lowes for a refund). ;)
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#69
Yep, I'm already concerned about the weight as the tube stands empty. Fiberglass crossed my
mind but that kind of blows my objective of keeping it cheep. I might try two strips of fiberglass
running up each outside of the tube to see how much stiffness it adds
. Than along with internal
strips of wood might be just enough. No chain-plates as that removes the "temporary" from the solution.
Maybe a couple c-clamps or something adhoc like that.
Maybe you've seen the ads that show an aluminum boat cut in half, repaired with G/flex, and motoring around quite happily afterwards. :)

:eek: G/flex adheres to PVC:

WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
 
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mixmkr

Active Member
#71
Why can't you fashion something that fits the mast hole ONLY, and then use whatever extending out of that....and it can be whatever diameter you desire? IOW a tapered mast base. (or a series of "collars" to transition from what's in the hole to the actual standing part of the spar. Realizing then that affects the gooseneck and other stuff possibly. But a "collar" , like used for the mast base, could be fashioned for the gooseneck to get to the desired diameter.

The other option is to do away with the mast step completely and make a regular mast step, even if it just slides into the hole or not...(like a dowel inserted with the mast step secured to the top of the dowel .or is attached across the top of it.. Something like a typical dingy mast base that might use a pin, etc. With a "deck step' you'd need some sort of standing rigging then of course. But the first option mentioned shouldn't be that difficult. Make a sleeve for the mast hole that accepts whatever spar you want to use, that takes the slop out things.
 
#72
Hi guys,
I've been snooping and learning in this forum since last summer but never posted.
I was just wondering if any one has tried two-piece mast and spars? Seems like shipping is the big problem here with the new stuff because of the lengths.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#74
Hi guys,
I was just wondering if any one has tried two-piece mast and spars? Seems like shipping is the big problem here with the new stuff because of the lengths.
Welcome to the Forum! :)

Shipping IS a big deal. :eek: The shipping costs for a new mast by truck puts it out of the picture.

I tried to peddle my 2-piece mast (here) for only $45, but the alternate shipping method—USPS—was almost $60!
| Sunfish Mast, Repaired from a fracture... | SailingForums.com

This mast (and a new one) are still available in central Florida for April, but I'll transport either mast free using the I-77 and I-81 corridor up the eastern coast. Look for the trip beginning in early May.
 
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