Yeah...and it's not class-legal for Sunfish racing...!PVC might work in light winds... Really light winds.
Yeah. That's what I've thought for decades but the following site shows the inner dimension is actually smaller :Since PVC pipe is sized by inner diameter and schedule 80 is heavy wall, that may not fit.
I hate to be a party pooper, but wouldn't it be simpler, easier and likely cheaper to buy a Sunfish mast?? That assumes Laser Performance is selling them these days.Yeah...and it's not class-legal for Sunfish racing...!
Yeah. That's what I've thought for decades but the following site shows the inner dimension is actually smaller :
Schedule 40/80 PVC Pipe Dimensions & Sizes | Pipe & Fitting Specifications
• The PVC could be strengthened internally by fitting a smaller diameter PVC or CPVC pipe, and filling the interior space with GREAT STUFF™ (for flotation) and/or epoxy (for strength). Or go with the free "Meineke sleeve" route.
Webfoot1 is onto something!
Yes, but the halyard wouldn't make that annoying "clanking" sound at the marina.All this makes for one heavy mast in the end.
One can of Good Stuff foam would be too hard to control, and wouldn't be enough, anyway. Which is another good reason to get $3-worth of 10-feet of Schedule 5 (or 10), and dispense Good Stuff as evenly as possible while inserting it. (From that one can). Leave the inside empty.That leaves the question, how much for 10 feet pipe, a pulley, bolt, nut and a can of expanding foam. Next time I get to the hardware I'll price it out. If it could get you on the water for $25 till a better deal came along or you just like messing around with uncommon solutions to common problems I say go for it. Note: The tubing I'm suggesting is SCH 40. Sorry if I was not more specific in my first post.
Dunno.but light and variable where do you get the schedule 5 pipes for cheap??? im looking to upgrade my super snark with a bigger sail and probably need another mast. thxs in advance
More "operations" can be gained from one can of Great Stuff by sticking a straightened coat hanger or small wood dowel into the "straw". Remove it, and the straw can be re-used. A reviewer said an ordinary soda straw will work, but I haven't tried that myself.Here's someone who used PVC and jammed a stair rail in the mast. It is real bendy
but it seemed to work, kind of. I'll see if I can get time to try it. I intend to fill it with
expanding foam. Failure would be excessive cost or weight to make it work as I'm sure
something can be jammed in it to make it work but might be much too heavy.
Quick Mast and Spars From PVC By Paul Herting PDRacer 596
How are you going to attach chain-plates without making any modifications to the hull?So close but yet so far... A 2 inch oak mast is going to be one heavy son-of-a-gun. I'm thinking about ripping 10 foot strips of wood and inserting a "+" shaped internal cross bracing. As you can see, I like 550 para-chord. If all else fails I'll rig some mast stays from 550 without making any modifications to the hull.
Styrofoam comes in a standard 2" round, straight, form. (Not a polyethylene pool noodle—too fat, and to which—fiberglass wouldn't stick).The pool noodles are oversize for the mast step of the Sunfish.... then add thickness of fiberglass needed to make it rigid and strong enough for the task.
By the time the home manufactured fiberglass coated pool noodle is strong enough you might think the oak inserted PVC is light.
Maybe you've seen the ads that show an aluminum boat cut in half, repaired with G/flex, and motoring around quite happily afterwards.Yep, I'm already concerned about the weight as the tube stands empty. Fiberglass crossed my
mind but that kind of blows my objective of keeping it cheep. I might try two strips of fiberglass
running up each outside of the tube to see how much stiffness it adds. Than along with internal
strips of wood might be just enough. No chain-plates as that removes the "temporary" from the solution.
Maybe a couple c-clamps or something adhoc like that.