Sunfish bridle backing block

Clamstock

New Member
I recently purchased a used sunfish (forgot the year, but I think it is a '1990's model) that needed some deck work (back near the stern). During the repair job, I had to remove one of the strap eyes (that the bridle connects to), & a buddy helped me with some fiberglass work. I then decided to paint a stripe across the stern where my repair was, and removed the other strap eye so that I could get nicer paint stripe...

When I tried to reconnect the 2 strap eyes (for the bridle), I found that both of the backing blocks had 'disappeared'. My wife and I have tipped the boat over a few times in order to keep the rain out / etc., during our repairs, so I suspect that the backing block could be 'anywhere down there'...

So, I guess that I need to install an inspection port to get some backing material back 'in there' (and if not, then I am open to other ideas...).

So here are my questions:

1. Where should I install the inspection port (I guess back where the rudder plate connects?). I do not want to cut into anything that might be structural below the deck. Is there a template or something to use, or do folks just guess where to install these ports?

2. What size inspection port should I purchase (and where do you order them from...)?

3. Do I need to install a new backing block (i.e. piece of wood) or is there some other backing material that will work better / just as well? I am (of course) looking for ease of installation and also (of course) want something that will hold over time (my kids will eventually sail this boat).

4. If I should stick with the wood backing block, then can I use any type of wood (i.e. a small piece of oak) or is there a specific kind of wood that I should use?

Any other hints and suggestions are much appreciated. I am fairly handy when it comes to working with wood, but really don't know a thing about fiberglass.

I just wish that I had found this forum before I started. I now realize that this was totally preventable. Hindsight is 20/20...

Cheers and thanks,

-John
 
Hey John,
1) just center it on the deck (I would use 6") a couple inches forward of the stern. You may want to replace the backing plates after you cut the hole but before you put the port in.... It will give you a bit of extra room to work.
2) 6". I know Intensity Sails has 4""... Not sure about 6" but you could check. Lots of other paces will have them... West Marine, or just google it. Just use the port as a template. (Make sure you use the inside diameter of the flange to draw your circle)
3) you could use lots of things, but I like a small piece of marine ply wood... Maybe an inch and a half by three inches or so. I'd just hold it in place and drill holes from the top (in the wood..NOT your hand). :) at this point you could epoxy the wood in place and then use stainless screws once it's set. I like the overkill route using the wood and stainless bolt with locknuts and fender washers.... You'll never have to do it again.
You'll find you'll have to dig through some foam ( I use a kitchen knife) to access,the spot you need.
Good luck! Not a terrible job at all. The worst is probably digging out the foam....
 
Hey John,
1) just center it on the deck (I would use 6") a couple inches forward of the stern. You may want to replace the backing plates after you cut the hole but before you put the port in.... It will give you a bit of extra room to work.
2) 6". I know Intensity Sails has 4""... Not sure about 6" but you could check. Lots of other paces will have them... West Marine, or just google it. Just use the port as a template. (Make sure you use the inside diameter of the flange to draw your circle)
3) you could use lots of things, but I like a small piece of marine ply wood... Maybe an inch and a half by three inches or so. I'd just hold it in place and drill holes from the top (in the wood..NOT your hand). :) at this point you could epoxy the wood in place and then use stainless screws once it's set. I like the overkill route using the wood and stainless bolt with locknuts and fender washers.... You'll never have to do it again.
You'll find you'll have to dig through some foam ( I use a kitchen knife) to access,the spot you need.
Good luck! Not a terrible job at all. The worst is probably digging out the foam....


-Many thanks! I feel better about this pending repair already! Cheers, -John
 
Andy's comments are spot on. The old backing blocks (now down in the bilge) are probably rotted and should be removed.
3/4" mahogany or even 3/4" thick pressure treated plywood make good replacement blocks, maybe 5" X 5". Using the wood back-up blocks and stainless steel machine screws and s.s. lock nuts and s.s. washers is the ultimate retrofit. Good luck.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 

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