!st sail went great EXCEPT

eastbayandy

New Member
Got the rudder glued, a pulley for the main, new lines, boom repaired and went for a test sail. holding on to the main without being able to cleat it wore me out in the steady 15kts. thinking something like the HARKEN 2615 57MM SINGLE SAILBOAT CARBO AIRBLOCK BLOCK PULLEY WITH CAM CLEAT . not sure 2165 is ratcheting, that would be nice too, esp for heavy air. I 'm an old guy [65] ,too bad they are so $. So far, other than my time, I've managed pretty cheap as I've got a good stash of SS sail stuff from my dad. the never been used intensity sail had a really nice shape, forgot what a crispy sail felt like. Any advice on the block/cleat for the main?
 
I think that last google photo you linked to has been argued as not that effective due to the angle of the mainsheet.

This is my preferred setup: sunfish mainsheet controls upgrade
Shown on a Minifish, but setup is similar on a Sunfish - you can mount the cam cleat on the cockpit lip of your Sunfish.

mainsheet-cleat-parts-list.png


You can't really cleat the line while hiking out though (and most folks discourage that anyway as it's a recipe for flipping the boat if you can't uncleat fast enough). But if you really want a cleat option, some have mounted a cam cleat on each side of the deck, up near where the splashguard ends, so they can cleat the mainsheet on either port or starboard tack.
 
this looks good ?
That is a recipe for a capsize on a windy day. It’s too hard to uncleat when you get heeled over. Tag has the best solution. And the deck mounted cleats are much safer re: capsizing as he says.
 
Thanks I’ve already got a pulley installed and I’ve got a cam Cle. At around somewhere so until I can find a rbettercblockcheap I’m good to go thanks
 
The Harken 2615 doesn't ratchet, and (despite what some on this forum may say) an "integrated" cleat doesn't work on a Sunfish/Laser -type boat. Forget it.

That Nautos swivel might actually work if "short arm" means it's more or less a copy of the Harken 205. The pictures on their website are confusing though, so you really don't know what you'd get. I'd forget that one, too.

What is your current block? If you already have a reasonably good ratchet, add cleats on the side decks.

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I'd echo what others are saying here. An integrated cleat/block is not a good idea. Even on boats where they make more sense (Like my old Taser) you have to be vigilant if you want to be able to react to gusts quickly enough. I think you will find that a ratchet block will make a big diference to fatigue. I use a 2135. I have deck cleats but rarely use them. I am a bit younger than you but my upper body strength is not that great.
 
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The Harken 2615 doesn't ratchet, and (despite what some on this forum may say) an "integrated" cleat doesn't work on a Sunfish/Laser -type boat. Forget it.

That Nautos swivel might actually work if "short arm" means it's more or less a copy of the Harken 205. The pictures on their website are confusing though, so you really don't know what you'd get. I'd forget that one, too.

What is your current block? If you already have a reasonably good ratchet, add cleats on the side decks.

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the pulley I installed is non ratcheting, just somethig I had around, I needed another hand to tug in in tighter, had to let go of the tiller a few times to get mors purchase, which is dicey.
 
Sailing in 15 kts the Sunfish sails have a very high load on them as compared to example a laser. The rachet has a snubbing action which a pulley does not have. You would enjoy sailing more with a rachet.
 
I'd echo what others are saying here. An integrated cleat/block is not a good idea. Even on boats where they make more sense (Like my old Taser) you have to be vigilant if you want to be able to react to gusts quickly enough. I think you will find that a ratchet block will make a big diference to fatigue. I use a 2135. I have deck cleats but rarely use them. I am a bit younger than you but my upper body strength is not that great.
where do you have your deck cleats?
 
One way of doing it. You can screw through the overhang of the cockpit.

View attachment 38263
That's exactly the way I d go it as well...The block can ratchet and I even left the old hook in it. ...so you have options. A cam cleat in the middle is out of reach, but on the sides ...can be used *carefully*. Yes...with white caps, the main sheet FOR ME almost always requires a ratcheting block.
 
both of you have your cam cleatsIn line with your pulley is it easier to cleat in that way
Doesn't matter, that's just roughly where the cleats end up when you position them right for your basic fore-and-aft weight placement. However, cleating is easier if the cleat isn't too far outboard. It looks like Sailflow's cleats are somewhat better positioned than Dick's in that sense. (Also, I understand that cleat risers are pretty much a must on a Sunfish.)

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Doesn't matter, that's just roughly where the cleats end up when you position them right for your basic fore-and-aft weight placement. However, cleating is easier if the cleat isn't too far outboard. It looks like Sailflow's cleats are somewhat better positioned than Dick's in that sense. (Also, I understand that cleat risers are pretty much a must on a Sunfish.)

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thanks, I didn't even notice that. I did have a thought about risers too after looking at pics. how high? make your own.? There is a harken riser I saw on amazon, Amazon.com : Harken Cam Cleat Accessories, flat riser for 150 200 cam cleat : Sailing Equipment : Sports & Outdoors
looks pretty tall
 
how high?
Ideally, the cleat should stand just high enough that the sheet goes in all the way when you pull it against the gunwale. The size and attachment of the block (as well as the aforementioned distance from the centreline) affects this, so you have test it in real life. That said, the Harken 295 seems to be what Sunfishers (like Sallflow) are using, and it's 24 mm tall.

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I'd be interested, also.

My story, and fix:


(Several, actually--search "Meineke")
 

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