Spar Traveling

iain_CAN165061

New Member
Where do you put your spars while traveling? And if you use pipe to keep them in, could you please mention specifics on the pipe, I am interested in building spar carriers

thank you,

Iain
 
I have foam supports I made from round "pool noodles". There's one near the front by the cuningham/outhaul cleats and one aft of the cockpit. I tie the spars down to the strap that holds the boat to the trailer, and add a bungie-cord to the hiking strap at the aft end of the cockpit. The cover goes over the whole mess. A friend uses three pool-noodles tie-wrapped together at the front and back to hold the spars above the cleats (I have to arrange things so the spars are on either side of the cleats). I can take some photos and post them if there's interest.

Cheers,

Geoff S.
 
I used some bonding cement to glue three sheets of 15" x 15" x 1" hard foam rubber together. One the glue had cured, used a saw to cut three bricks, 15"' x 5" x 3" then cut in slots to fit two mast and boom sets. I use two, and have a spare.

Total cost = A$5 for the glue and 0.50 for a disposable paint brush. The rubber was free from local rubber dealer as off cuts.

Any word yet on how to post photos here? Pictures speak louder than words.


Hope this helps.

wabbit :D
 
Thank you SO much geoff and Scott. Geoff, when ever u hav some spare time... pictures would b great. if you dont post them on the gallery for the forum, could you please send them to my emai

thanks again,

iain
[email protected]
 
mmm, i put them in the back of dads ute or on the side of it he he he, it is dangerous tho, good to knock them bastard cyclists off the road he he he. or i put them in my dads corsair (big 16ft dinghy)
 
Here are some photos of my "pool noodle" spar supports. Making them was easy; I just cut a "V" notch in the noodle where I wanted the spar to sit and then used them. In a day or two the foam had compressed to conform to the diameter of the spar.

The short blue one protects the outhaul and cunningham cleats. I used a hollow noodle and split it lengthwise through one wall, then forced the cut over the cleats.

Cheers,

Geoff S.
 

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iain_CAN165061 said:
just a quick question:why is the bottom section so far away from the top section?
No good reason. That's just the way I made the cut-outs in the foam. I made the supports when I still had the "old style" cunningham deck hardware, and the top section lay pretty much right along the centerline of the boat. With the new deck hardware, I really should make a new set with the distance between the boom and top section a bit larger to clear the cleat, and the bottom section closer to the top section.

Hopefully I'll get a shot of the stack of noodles a friend has when we race on Sunday.

Cheers,

Geoff S.
 
My pictures are now available....

spars.jpg


Hope this helps....

wabbit


P.S. Not long after these were made, I reduced the size from 6 spaces to 5...
 
o, alright, so you put it overtop your covers?

for neone who answers... can you leave your rigging on when the spars are over the covers, or only when their under? or is it just a bad idea all around?

cya
 
you might notice in the oicture, the cover is brand-spanking new..... and as much as I appreciated my birthday present, I would have preferred to put the spars under a cover..... cest la vie.

wabbit
 
if you have a good sized piece of plywood and a band saw you can just draw on the wood with a pencil the size then cut it out n just tape all the edges. thats what i have and it works great. i have 2 of them. one for the front and one for the back. they have kind of a T shape to them and the bottoms have a cut out for the double cleat in the middle of the boat and in the back just flat. hope it helps. if you want pictures email me and il take some.
 
My solution to this involves 2 lengths of 37 by 90mm Pine, 1 length of 37 by 50 Pine, a block to fit in the mast hole, some 10mm foam, 12, 6mm dia. by 65mm and 12, 6mm dia by 40mm self tapping galvanised bolts, some PVC tube to be a force fit on the bolt heads, and some shock cord. Screw the 37 by 50 on the underside of the rear carrier to locate between the cockpit sides. Screw the peg to the underside of the front carrier to locate in the mast hole. Use contact adhesive to glue the foam on all contact surface of the deck. Screw in all the bolts to act as locators and shockcord turning points. Heat the PVC tube in hot water to allow it to be fitted over the vertical bolts. The rope or strap that holds the boat to the trailer then secures the whole lot down. Have a look at the attached photos and I hope this becomes clear!
 

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