SOS water in the hull

Cdubb

New Member
So I discovered yesterday that my hull has a fair amount of water in it, big problem but even bigger with the freezing Michigan winter coming fast. The only place I would guess it came in at is though the base o-ring of the old metal bailer. I was in the middle of trying to replace the bailer when I discovered the water but was unsuccessful in my first attempt at getting the old one removed. The boat is a late 60s early 70s one so it has the hex head type fastener on deck for the bailer. Can I just take a socket and unthread it? If so what size is the socket? I bought a 12 point 34mm and it seems too small. Also pulling the bailer off allow the water inside to drain out? I have to get it out to save the boat, short of drilling a hole in the bottom and resealing it in the spring that's my only other idea. Any ideas?

Regards
 
I removed mine with a 1 1/8" box wrench
I tried a 1 1/8" that was too small and 1" 7/16 was too big so im guessing it's a inch and 5/16 but thats not right either so I tried metric and that didn't work. The hex head isn't damaged or stripped, it's in perfect shape so I am at a loss here.
 
It is highly unlikely that is where the water came in as the hull and cockpit are bonded to prevent that from happening. There should be a small drainplug on the deck by the splashguard. Unscrew it, tip boat on side, and empty!
 
Can I just take a socket and unthread it? If so what size is the socket? I bought a 12 point 34mm and it seems too small. Also pulling the bailer off allow the water inside to drain out?
Member Alan S. Glos describes his success removing metal DePersia bailers: "a breaker bar with swivel head from Harbor Freight (about $7) and a 36 mm deep socket from NAPA (about $12)".
Frozen bailer | SailingForums.com

If your Sunfish is stored (in season) on a ramp, a drain with plug can be drilled in the transom; however, as stated above, a small drain is already provided by the factory.

Use of WD40 or PB Blaster sprays may be necessary to loosen both fittings.
 
Had no idea that was a drain plug! Man I feel dumb.....but disaster averted, I got the water out though the deck plug. How would I go about an air test?

But a deepwell 36mm then hey? Mystery solved, thanks everyone that's why I love this board!
 
I think it is very unlikely that water is getting into the interior of the hull via the metal bailer. In these older boats, the bailer hole goes through solid fiberglass mat and resin so even if the "o" ring on the metal bailer fails, water gets into the cockpit but not the interior of the hull. The most common leak area in an old boat is the mast hole, either wear-through at the base of the hole or a crack in the sidewall. An easy check is to fill the mast hole with water right to deck level and then see if the column of water drops. If the water drains completely out of the mast hole, you have a leak in the bottom of the hole. If the water drains partially out, you have a sidewall crack. Both can be repaired with epoxy resin and fiberglass mat. Other common leak areas are the dagerboard trunk, worn areas on the keel, or a leak where the deck meets the hull flange under the aluminum trim. If the mast hole water test does not indicate a leak, do a full leak test with pressurized air and soapy water in the spring. Somewhere here on the Forum is a piece on how to do a leak test. Watch the air pressure - you can blow the deck off if you use too much pressure (been there, almost did that on a Laser once.)

In the meantime, use the deck drain to get the interior water out before it freezes and does worse damage. Good luck. Let us all know how it turned out.

Alan Glos
 
...also check the dagger board slot/tunnel for cracks at the bottom of the hull. If for any reason your dagger board found a rock and was not in the full down position, the impact, if there was one, may have cracked the dagger board tunnel. you'll know for sure if you see a notch cut in at the rear edge of the dagger board. If so repair requires an inspection port to be cut in the front of the cockpit to access and lay down glass patches. good luck
 

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