Screw size bow handle

yogitony

New Member
I just purchased a sunfish that needs some work. It has a bow handle without screws. Could anyone tell me what the size and length is of these screws?
 
Thanks. Yes, the backing block is sound. Looks like #10 1" or a bit longer works; and, i am assuming, a course thread pattern?
Check the fit of that #10. The head should "nestle"—or be a matching "fit"—in the bow handle's countersunk holes. "Coarse" thread is the most common, and works OK. I'll bet even a 2" screw will still have nearly all of its threads "purchased" in wood backing blocks. Use stainless—not brass—as stainless resists breakage especially well.

I haven't removed any screws other than sheet metal screws from my older (70s) Sunfish hardware. (But, for all I know, wood screws may have come as standard).
 
"wood" screws, not machine thread.

"Sheet metal" screws could also be OK.

wood screws the thread tapers the full length of threaded area. They also usually have an unthreaded portion near the head if they are more than 5X dia in length.
Sheet metal screws the thread tapers near the tip to a point but the main threaded length is constant diameter.
 
I just purchased a sunfish that needs some work. It has a bow handle without screws. Could anyone tell me what the size and length is of these screws?

What year is your boat? Early boats used wood screws into a backer block, the 1988ish boats with rolled edge and later used machine screws into a metal plate.
 
#10 1 1/2 stainless sheet metal screws worked perfectly. Will need new backer block and will use boat life caulk. Silicon will make any future painting more difficult and 4200 is imho way overkill especially for a part that needs periodic repair. Will also chamfer edges for better seal of caulk.
 
My '85 also has metal plates. I was able to remove 3 out of 4 SS screws when I painted the boat over the summer but the last one sheared off. I tried everything to extract it but I wasn't successful at all.
 
True, we only "rent" bow handles. :rolleyes:

"Extract" suggests backing-out the old sheared screw.

Upon the next "bow handle event", try using a 1/8" drill bit, to drive the sheared screw tip forward.
 

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