sailing one handed

todd bleifuss

New Member
Curious if anyone has sailed with one hand, and if so any modifications? I don't race, so not worried about class legal, just looking to swap ideas or tips. I modified the tiller extension using an old conti tube to make multiple loops, which works pretty well, but still looking for something that would allow me to get a quicker grip on it when switching hands. May not exist.
 
Perhaps with a tiller extension long enough to reach the main sheet cleats then have two pairs on each side of the boat? one above your normal seating position and one below eg. (cleat) you (cleat)

You might have to spend some time working on / thinking about your movements through tacks and gybes so you don't get tangled up as you move across. but with one cleat above and another below your norma seating position you have options.
 
I'm no expert in the field, but just for what it's worth - I wonder if a "J" hook on the end of the tiller extension might help. I'm thinking you might be able to "hook" it around an arm or a leg to maintain control of the tiller and some ability to steer while your other hand is otherwise engaged.
I'd be interested to know what you end up doing and how it's working out for you. Maybe some pics if it's not too much trouble?

Good luck with it.
 
Hey, thanks both of you, appreciate it- I can try to post some pictures. The boats a '71. No deck cleats and rather than cleat the sheet I had set up a helm impeder for coming about- based on a design from a British dinghy sight. However this isn't a fat-bottomed hard-chined Potter and I'd like to lose the helm impeder as while it won't lock the tiller, if you get hit by a gust as your starting to tack, it slows the boat's rounding up, which encourages the mast to arc leeward and downward rather quickly, lol.

The J hook suggestion was very helpful - got me thinking if I could do something similar to a round oarlock: easy to get in and with a slight twist that I can manage it would allow me positive contact to pull it windward or push it leeward...need to make friends with a machinist, lol.
 
just one further thought, as I read your comment about a machinist -
certainly for a long-term solution, a well-fabricated part is sure to be attractive. If it was me ( ... but it is not ... ) I wonder if you could start with some bend-able stock metal -- I'm thinking about the sort of things in a decent hardware store - things like aluminum flat stock, say 3/4" x 1/8" , or maybe a round rod, maybe 3/8" diameter? Aluminum or brass? The flat stock might be fastened to the tiller with sheet metal screws, or thru-bolts or something?? You'd want to take care not to weaken the tiller by drilling too many holes in it, or too big. To check out something for the short term, maybe even heavy-duty double-sided tape with some beefy zip-tie's on top of that. Just in the short run until you work out something that's working for you, then maybe make it more robust + permanent.

Anyway just a couple thoughts and still, best of luck with it,
C
 
Not quite clear on if you have limited use or no use of one hand (you mention switching hands), but here are a couple of ideas that have worked well for some older folks that I have worked with that have lost some co-ordination and or strength..

A piece of shock cord on the tiller (tied at both trav. eyes) that acts to center the tiller when it's let go.
A swiveling cam cleat on an arm/with the ratchet block mounted on it at the front edge of the cockpit (cam facing up) or mounted on the block upside down.
Snap221.jpg


The mainsheet system set up this way works fine in lt to med breeze, but beware of heavy /shifty breeze and leaving it in the cleat when tacking..
 
Hand formed as far as the wrist.

Helm impeder- angles not optimum as I was trying to keep it away from the traveller and use the traveller fairleads. You can adjust tension to set how much force is needed though the further over the tiller the less effective it is because the angle is too sharp:
2012-07-31_16-41-46_384.jpg
Hiking stick- pvc over the original which was a bit short and a dowel in the bit that extends past the original extension for stiffness. Bicycle tubing loops. In light or moderate air fine as I can wiggle in and get good contact. In heavier air it lead to some interesting ballast movements when I miss hooking the end of it- the J hook would have been handy- a pivoting 'O' shape like an oarlock might be better as I could push and pull with a twist in the 'wrist' and easy to insert. Miniature oarlocks? Not much meat on the tiller.
2012-07-31_16-42-28_384.jpg 2012-07-31_16-43-41_921.jpg

Main sheet block- an old ratchet block in a box of parts. It is jury rigged. The RWO block underneath has had its mounting rotated by a PO and they had removed the cam cleat and bolted a large Harken ratchet block to the ears. I removed that and put a camming cleat from another RWO I had in the box of parts. It was not great and I found the first time I used it it cleated without me realizing it which led to a bit of excitement. Depressing the angle helped, but deck cleats weren't a designer's whimsy. So I tried the smaller ratchet block alone, don't need the cleats, and it worked well in light/moderate air at least, and easy to bring it block to block. I do want to clean the mess up but am reluctant to touch it as it is at least at the moment solidly attached. On the other hand it bit me when I was getting back in the boat after messing up a tack and capsizing. Imagine if Tiny Tim suddenly piped up 'God d%%$#@! son ^&^'. Just not on. Ruins the children's faith in Disney and Dickens.
2012-07-31_16-42-37_597.jpg

The sheet is new, 8mm Bzz line, nice line that I use on the Potter as well, but I am wondering if a smaller diameter might be better?

Disclaimer: I realize it may just be that the more i can get out and sail and practice, the less important the engineering details will be. The question was originally posed as I'd like to figure out something on the extension for heavier air and lose the helm impeder. And my limited experience of cleating is that its probably not something I want to do with this boat- its sensitive. If i want to set sails and climb on the cabin and enjoy the view for a moment I can take the Potter....but I do have an old RWO mainsheet system in the parts box like you show above and maybe I should give it a trial to be sure- has anyone had trouble with unintended cleating? The main thing is I don't fancy doing the drunken sailor in heavier air because I was on a port tack and lost hold of the tiller when the wind came up hard and I needed to shift position. The boat's nimble and quick if the helmsman isn't a clod.

thanks again-sorry for the blog
 
I realize it may just be that the more i can get out and sail and practice, the less important the engineering details will be.
thanks again-sorry for the blog
- no apology necessary - appreciate the pics + explanation

Thanks for the pics, and good for you for engaging your imagination to get the boat working for you! I'm sure you're right in that more time on the water will help. But I'm a lil like you perhaps in that I'm inclined to invest a lil time in getting the set-up working well.

I'd be inclined to try to find a way to get one of those swivelling cam-cleat blocks on the mainsheet, like the ones 49208 posted. I had one on an old Sailfish and still miss it on the Laser even with 2 hands. It seems to me that the advantage would be that you can stop or release the sheet QUICKLY with one hand from any direction of pull. This seems to address the situation when your good hand is on the tiller, to still be able to control the sheet- especially how to release and/or ease it when a puff comes along. My guess is that one of these blocks would help in that situation. But again it's all guesswork on my part cuz you're the man in the boat.

Have fun - good luck - holler if we can help.
C
 
I think a strap like in that picture could work with a little rethinking, just make sure that it's comfortable and that it isn't cutting your skin or cutting off circulation,

I'd be careful not to make anything that you can get caught on, always make sure it can release quickly if you capsize

Maybe something with a U or C shape that you can quickly grip the extension with, it could have a swivel to make tacking easy and it will go on an off the extension easily, maybe even something really simple like velcro could work, think like if you cupped your hand and made it fixed so that where the thumb and fingers meet are slightly smaller than what you want to grip, then coat it in rubber, they sell rubber dips that will work well, that would be something simple that would probably work well,

also maybe just a simple hook with quick release, my tiller extension broke along time ago and I was able to sail in hiking conditions by attaching a line to the tiller, that might also be an option for hiking conditions, when you need to tack just move into the cockpit and push the tiller with your arm,

Let us know what you come up with,
 
If something like an oarlock might work, maybe you could make a "soft" oarlock by passing some line through a bit of vinyl tubing to form a loop of the right size and attaching it to the end of the tiller extension. It would at least be lighter and no machinist would be needed. And the material is cheap enough that you could experiment with the right configuration without breaking the bank.
 

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