Rustoleum topside

#21
I had that problem with spraying to the point my first coat of primer came out like a splotchy 'orange peel' drywall finish due to lack of appropriate thinning - i was discouraged but eventually sanded it down mechanically a week later after my wounded ego was repaired and my ambition was back.

I think i ultimately found that 25% to 30% thinning with xylene worked the best for my sprayer, but you have to test test test your mixture to make sure its not too runny. i'm sure that a lower percentage would work with a roller - the can says something like 15% - i'd start there. and i cannot stress enough that paint will reveal any imperfections in your substrate, so faring and sanding make all the difference before you apply paint. i can say from experience that you can sand down what you messed up so far - i used a $14 el-cheapo palm sander and successively finer grades of sandpaper until i fixed my screw up. oh, and use a mask.

the end result when you get rustoleum right is shiny but not super shiny, but it gets real reflective and beads beautifully when wet - i'll see if i can dig up a picture - you'll love it if you take the time.
 
#22
Try Interlux 2333n as a thinner, works very well. Little less than an ounce per 16 oz of paint. 1/2 quart should put one full coat with a little left over on the hull, 14 oz on the deck not including foot well. Expoxy paint is a slow drier like enamel is and take about 24 hour to hardern. The rustoleum paint will give you that same shine as 2 part Interlux perfection, but not as tough as Interlux. A primer is a very good idea, it will hide lots of small imperfections missed by the sander and the dreaded pin holes. Lowes will tint the white gloss to the shade you like, no promise how it will hold up in sunlight.
 
#23
I used Rustoleum on the deck. After the first coat of primer I waited 24 hours. Temp was in the mid 60's. But I learned to do the coats early in the morning, before it warmed up too much. After the paint was no longer tacky, I set the boat out in the sunshine until sundown. I also tried to keep the coats on the thin side. A power sander between each coat with 220 made the sanding go a lot faster. After one primer coat and two top coats, I was ready to put on the stripes. I used another paint on the bottom, but I prefer the Rustoleum Topcoat - lower price, available at Lowes and seemed easier to use.
I was wrong! I used Interlux on the deck.... and the Bottom 2.JPG Rustoleum was what I used on the bottom of the hull.... I guess I'm getting old!
 
Thread starter #24
I decided to give up on the Rustoleum Topside. IMO this paint might be good for the deck of a work boat, but if you want a smooth yachtlike finish it is just not up to the job. I ended up with the same orange peel deal the finish has no shine whatsoever. When it dries I am going to try hitting it with some rubbing compound but I am not going to waste time putting another coat of paint on it.

I sanded the first coat down and followed the instructions on the can for thinning it and still did not end up with a decent finish. I finally said f--- it, I am going to sail the boat this summer and this fall I am going to strip it and and take it to the boatyard guy across the river from me and have him either re-gelcoat it, or paint with Awlgrip or Interlux perfection.
 
#25
Does anyone know if you can paint a polyurethane paint like brightside over it once it is hard or will I need to strip it all off down to bare gelcoat and start over?
I just had a long conversation with my local boat service department on painting. Brightside polyurethane was actually recommended for Sunfish. I plan to lightly sand, prime, and two coats of polyurethane. He recommended 5% - 10% thinning for rolling or brushing. I will not be spraying. I also purchased an additive (flattener) that will be used on the splash guard so it won't be so shiny. Be careful on the Brightside, at $53 per QUART (I think it's cheaper on e-bay) it adds up quick. All said, I've got $185 invested in painting my Sunfish. :confused:
 

baseman

On the Water
#26
All this has me re-thinking whether or not to paint my Phantom. I only paid $125 for the boat and the trailer. I put new tires and lights on the trailer, new sail, halyard and main sheet and rachet block (the block was free). This year I have a daggerboard that was actually made for a Phantom (thanks to sailcraftri). I had to make some repairs, so not counting my time, I have less than $450 invested. Before and after pictures, no paint involved. Phantom before.jpg phantom after.jpg
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
#27
IMHO paint can be more trouble than it is worth. It looks good when fresh,but can scratch, and it does not look so good. Also, if you do paint, I strongly suggest painting the deck a lighter shade. That darker blue boat with the white stripe further up this chain looks great, but on a sunny day, that deck is going to be HOT, HOT, HOT!!
 
#28
IMHO paint can be more trouble than it is worth. It looks good when fresh,but can scratch, and it does not look so good. Also, if you do paint, I strongly suggest painting the deck a lighter shade. That darker blue boat with the white stripe further up this chain looks great, but on a sunny day, that deck is going to be HOT, HOT, HOT!!

would seem to be so, beldar, but we've got a pretty darn strong sun where i'm at and deck heat has not been a problem at all.
 
Thread starter #29
Here is the final result with the Rustoleum Topside. It looks OK, but not very shiny. At least I can't tell where the hole in the side of it that I patched used to be.
 

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