Rigging the outhaul for the new Boom Sleeve/Clew Hook

#21
chillax salsa, people come to this forum so they dont get flamed for the "stupid" questions that they may have cause they are new or dont quite understand. Im not saying TLF is like a sanctuary or anything its just a place where people can ask questions without criticism.
 
#22
It looks to me that it doesn't get the sail close enough to the boom(ie not as much leech tension as a vecro clew strap or by just tying). Is this correct or is it just the photo? Think I will wait to see overall performance, results and a good real cloe up of one rigged before I rush out and buy one.
 
#25
SFBayLaser said:
I don't think it is important so much as that is where they end up with this scheme (which is only one of many you could think of). I didn't take a picture, but the line going forward goes to a block tied around the mast, then down to the deck and to the cleat. Very simple.

I tried to zoom in a bit more on a couple of pictures to help answer other points, questions, etc.
Hi Merrily:

I just put an order for the new Boom Sleeve. Thanks for the pictures. I couldn't figure out how the line is looped through the cleat on the boom. It seems that the "block" is tied off and then led through the block coming from the clew line, fed through the cleat and then back through the "block" - ie it is the same line to comply with the rules? Do you have a close up picture of the cleat? How long a line do you need to make this work?

Thanks


Phil Minnion
 
#26
Photos a bit of a dissapointment (not because they are bad photos - just because the clew is not as close to the boom as expected).

Recently switched from a non-legal (so it was suggested by one member of this forum) plastic tube (plastic cut from a chamois tube) version of the sleeve with Harken Hook to a Rooster strap without hook. While rigging was incredibly tedious compared to the hook, the end result was a clew right down on the boom and the same easy glide I got from the plastic sleeve. Actual difference was quite dramatic.

I understand the hook has been re-designed to hold the clew lower - but compared to what the rather tedious strap can produce it is still way higher off the boom. Can the hook be replaced with a simple 'push-pin' (the type of pin used to secure shrouds with a spring (safety) loaded turn toggle- or is the hole too low for this to pass thru the clew eye?

If everyone used this standard fitting it probably would not matter much - but it looks as though the strap will still permit the clew to be secured markedly closer to the boom alieviating the need for expensive low-profile tillers. (but if you have both you it looks as though you will have maybe a further inch or so before you get block to block.

May not be such an issue for radials - but has anyone checked this out?

The Harken hook is so much user friendly when rigging and unrigging - would be good to see it work without sacrificing clew distance from the boom.

What do you think??
 
#27
Put this question on another thread also - but would like advice.

Does the clew of the sail rig outside the port sleve flange? (i.e. so the whole sleeve is a few degrees rotated to starboard when viewed from the outboard end of the boom). Photos don't show this clearly even at 400% zoom.

Also the instructions on mine said emphatically to rig the split-pin (opened 3mm) to starboard. (phptos show it rigged to port - same side as the open hook??) Only reason for questioning this is that the starboard rotation of the sleeve from vertical I get with the clew outside the port sleeve flange means that the split-pin thru the cotterpin is very close to snagging the outhaul line running forward on the starboard side.

Photos show the sleeve almost 'vertical' (i.e. the gap in the sleeve almost centres on the top centreline of the boom - in my setup this is probably 10 degrees off centre.

Advise appreciated
 
#28
Being a new Laser sailor, what's the deal with the distance of the clew vs. the boom. Does the small difference really make much a difference in the shape of the sail?
 
#30
I just wanted to add to this thread.

I've been using the new sleeve, rigged as shown in the diagram for a few outings now. I was having real trouble because the system always stuck when I released the outhaul; it seemed there was too much friction in the system. I thought I was going to need to put a bungie inhaul back on.

But last night, I sprayed the end of the boom and the outhaul line at the outhaul attachment point with "McLube" following the directions on the can. I was liberal with it and added a couple coats. HUGE DIFFERENCE! Every ease of the outhaul caused an immediate difference in sailtrim, and if I blew the outhaul completely, the sail quickly pulled it all the way out the stop knot, even at the shown 8-1 cascading advantage.

I conclude that if you use the new sleeve, YOU NEED A CAN of MCLUBE to go with it.
 
#31
Just got one today - and my first impression is that the tube edges should ideally have had a slight flange on them. That way there should be no chance of it catching/scoring the boom and there should be no need to use lubricant - a potential future mod? Anyway, racing tomorrow in light air so here's hoping it works fine and I'm worrying over nothing.
 
#35
Update: I'm one of the guys who's been using the clew sleeve successfully. But after a little more than a year of the use of the clew sleeve, I have to abandon it.

As noted above, my initial impression was that you just needed to lube it for it to work right.

But under about a year of normal "Laser" usage mine has now decided that it won't release under any load at all, even when properly lubed up. I inspected it carefully and I see that it has acquired a tiny bit of a twist/bend in one of its flanges, so small you'd never notice if you weren't looking for it. I assume this is the cause of the problem.

Rather than order a replacement, I'm now going to get a harken clew hook and rooster clew strap.
 

Merrily

Administrator
#38
I don't use any lubrication, but have the return bungee. No problem and I sail at least twice a week. Maybe your lube got dirty and is actually causing friction?
 
#39
McLube doesn't really hold dirt -- it's not like spraying on lithium grease or something. And you need to do frequent re-applications no matter what. I'd applied a fresh coat on the day I started having problems.

This is mechanical failure.
 

Merrily

Administrator
#40
McLube doesn't really hold dirt -- it's not like spraying on lithium grease or something. And you need to do frequent re-applications no matter what. I'd applied a fresh coat on the day I started having problems.

This is mechanical failure.
Actually, I was surprised when a college sailor told me that McLube does gum up. It would be worth a shot cleaning the end of the boom and the inside of the sleeve.
 
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