Rigging the cunningham

Alysum

Member
Hi,

I just got a laser with a turbo kit and I'm struggling with the cunningham rigging.

My model has just one small block with becket on the vang system and I have a second small block with becket and a rope. How do I start ?

When I read some help in books and online I see that some models have a double small block on the vang, which model is this ?

By the way, to avoid confusion is the becket the end with just curved metal or the end with a mini roll ? Which end should bowlines be done on ?

Any help appreciated :)
 
the cunningham consists of one double block with a becket that attaches to the top of the vang and then a line attached to another double block with a becket runs through the grommet on the sail and then ties to the becket on the block attached to the top of the vang. your cunningham control line attaches to the becket on the top double block then runs throught the top and bottom double blocks and down to the deck. i hope this makes sense.

it sounds like you are talking about the vang blocks in your description
 
no no I'm talking about the cunningham niot the vang.

I don't understand, I don't have any double blocks for the cunningham, just two single blocks !
 
was this an official 'cunningham' kit, or did it come with the boat?

The double blocks that sailor327 mentioned will give you 10:1 purchase power.

Some people will use a single block with a becket to reduce the purchase (and have less string loose in the cockpit).

Let me find some pictures.....
 
the boat is a 165 so it didnt come with the boat so yes the previous owner probably added it himself.

sorry what does 10:1, 8:1 etc... mean ?
 
Laser%20Unpack%2051.JPG


that is a double block w/becket set up for the full 10:1 purcahse. This is the way new lasers come rigged.
 
I see no I dont have that.
mmm so I'll have to work out a way with 2 single blocks and a rope, the guy showed me how to rig it quickly but I've forgotten how to, especially using just one rope including going through the sail gommet.
is that what we call 8:1 then ?
 
A 10:1 has a better mechancial advantage (ie. less force required by you)) than a 6:1, but then you will need to deal to how much line will be floating in the boat when you have a 10:1 system hard on.

To help you understabd about mechancial advantage and pulleys I have found this link http://www.swe.org/iac/lp/pulley_03.html that explains it.
 
On that PDF it doesn't say where exactly the other end of the blue primary cunningham rope goes ? Do you make a loop around the tack ?
 
Ok I see. I actually don't have a primary spliced rope...so either it was forgotten or the guy found a way to rig it without it ! Anyway I plan to purchase one.
 
10:1... for you to pull the sail down one inch, you will pull 10 inches of line.
6:1.. 6 inches of line. The more purchase (higher number), the easier it is to pull. However more purchase is also more friction as you ease off. Too much purchase, and you may not be able to simply uncleat and bear away.
 
OMG you guys are so lucky. My cunningham is just one length of rope which i loop back and forth on itself a couple of times, then run it through something on the deck with a brake on it, then tie a stopper not.

I thought it was just to pull the bottom of the sail down towards the boom? Yours looks ever so complicated.
 
awesome job to everybody involved in explaining this cunningham dilemma. great photo from Westcoast shows what it should or could be. where else can you get intstant feedback like this and walk away knowing exactly what you need?
 
eheh awesome forum hey ;) I got a primary cunningham rope yestersday and I will make a bowline at each end.
 
Tried the double becket bottom and double top block set-up as shown in the photo above - pulls on great in a breeze but found it less than satisfactory when releasing Cunningham at the top mark- it either twisted or in lighter breezes would not release - even with very small diameter line.

Have reverted to a single at the base (could be a single with becket for the thru tack line part but tied this alongside in the same pin instead) and use a single with becket at the tack. This runs better - but you need to ensure the bolts on the deck cleats are tight as it takes more effort to pull tension on in heavy air.

Cascade systems also run well but don't give enough travel for all conditions - maybe a suitably small (low profile - micro) fiddle block would possibly still give the purchase of the doubles but retain the travel required. - Have not seen any such blocks of suitable size (i.e. micro fiddle blocks) manufactured by Ronstan or Harken (a marketing opportunity?).

Seems that single (or in-line) blocks run better on the Laser Cunningham than doubles but in heavy air the doubles make easier work of maxing out the luff tension if you need to. Just annoying to have to go forward in lighet air to release the tension if you use double blocks.
 
That's interesting the 10:1 and light weather.

Do top laser sailors switch between different purchases depending on the wind then ? To go from 6:1 to 10:1 all you need is 2 double blocks and more rope right ?
 
Oh yeah I also wanted to ask; which part is the 'Cunningham Plate' you see on online laser stores ?
 
Alysum,

Some top sailors do go to more purchase on the Cunningham in heavy air - but most just get used to the grunt required still using the light weather friendly and reliable release option (using shoulders to pull it on not forearms or wrist)- although they may rig this to one side of the boom in the heavy stuff so they can crank it on with the tack down past the boom. But with an increase in sprint race formats few fiddle with this between races unless the change in conditions is really dramatic.

If you do rig to one side of the boom, work out which tack you will want to point highest (i.e. if the chop/swell favours one or other tacks) because it tends to give slightly more draft on one tack compared to the other (at least it seems too and your head will convince you it is setting better on one tack than the other and this can affect your sailing).
 
Thanx so much for sharing all this info, good Laser people. I'm a relative 'noob' to Laser sailing, so all of this info and advice is really helpful for me. Thank you so much!
 
How do you easily unrig the new setup? I don't like fumbling around with small diameter spectra when my fingers are cold.
 

Back
Top