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Restoring an 1976 Vanguard Intl. 470

LaLi

Well-Known Member
is there anyway to share more of arekas photos? Especially the trapeze setup.
Yes :D

Here's a view that shows the approximate setup and location of the trapezes. This boat has the contemporary "rope/plate" style handles - you grab the rope, and the plate stops your hand from sliding farther down. The plates should be roughly at same level as the top of the boom (lower measurement mark); if you use another style of handle (such as the T- or triangle-shaped ones), they should be about 10 cm higher. The exact position is determined by crew size and his/her personal style and preference.
The rope/wire joint doesn't have to be that high, but it can as it's not very critical. About half of the rope length on this boat would still be fine.
The fairleads or blocks for the return elastic on the side deck should be located like this, distant enough from the chainplates, so the trapeze doesn't get wrapped around the shroud that easily. On many 1970s boats this is a problem (and is rather easy to fix).

IMG_2200.jpg


A closer look at the wire/rope joint. This can be tied or spliced in any way you want really.
The other types of handle were usually connected directly to the wire (which meant that the wires were longer), but there's nothing that keeps you from using a connecting rope with those, too. The original wires for your boat very likely need to be shortened considerably. (Have you found them yet?)

IMG_9124.jpg


Here's the handle, height adjustment system and ring. The rope is slid through a piece of plastic tube for better grip (which could be twice that length). The standard choice of cleat is a Clamcleat, but a block with an integrated wedge cleat is fine, too.
The return elastic is attached the right way, so that it releases the ring from the harness hook just by pulling the handle.
On the opposite side, you can see the elastic go behind the blue spinnaker bag...

IMG_9123.jpg

... to a turning block near the mast step, and continuing aft...

IMG_9184.jpg

.. to another turning block behind the centreboard case that sends it back forward, to the port side trapeze:

IMG_9295.jpg

This is a fairly standard system, but there are countless other ways to lead the elastic, including having it crisscross hidden behind the spinnaker bags, or leading it to the transom along the side tanks, etc. The two sides don't need to be connected, but it's a neat way of doubling the stretching length.

Hope this answered some of your questions :)

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btaylor

New Member
Hi, I was able to run the spinnaker halyard and spinnaker pole topping lift (in the mast) back to the correct controls.
I was doing this after racing for a few hours and messed up on running the spinnaker sheets. My question is when I run the spinnaker sheet from port to starboard (clew and tack) of the spinnaker (going around the 470 from the bow to the transom and back) how long should the spinnaker sheet be?
IMG_1027.png
 

LaLi

Well-Known Member
how long should the spinnaker sheet be?
Something like 19 metres should be enough. Test it in real life: you want to be able to let the spinnaker flap completely when sheeting it from the trapeze, while still having some slack in the windward part of the sheet.

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btaylor

New Member
Something like 19 metres should be enough. Test it in real life: you want to be able to let the spinnaker flap completely when sheeting it from the trapeze, while still having some slack in the windward part of the sheet.

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Thanks! Pardon my ignorance but from what I experienced the spinnaker sheet (one continuous line) should go from the spinnaker port attachment, around the port shroud and route along the port gunwale to the port side rear block on the transom, across the transom to the starboard block, follow the starboard side gunwale, go around the shroud, around the forestay, and attached to the starboard spinnaker attachment. On my boat there are a port and starboard Side Entry Aluminum Clamcleat® w/ Fairlead to control the trim of the spinnaker sheets. Does that sound about right?
 

LaLi

Well-Known Member
Well, from the transom it should go along the side tank to the turning block in front of the traveller, and only then cross the cockpit...

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LaLi

Well-Known Member
IMG_9300.jpg

From sail to aft end of gunwale, to transom, along the side tank, under the traveller, to turning block on the side tank in front of the traveller, and across the boat.

IMG_9320.jpg
(It's the black and white line.)

A few notes:
This boat has the post-1986 support pieces under the traveller track, so there's a hole for the sheet to go through. Not needed on 70s boats :D
Ratchet blocks are customary today; they're certainly helpful but not necessary.
The cleat above the ratchet isn't absolutely necessary either, although it's a nice backup for the windward sheet, good for keeping the lazy sheet out of the water, and may be helpful for the helmsman during gybes.

Now, US 1358 does have the blocks and cleats for the spinnaker sheet in the middle of the boat, but someone has apparently repurposed them for the jib lead:

IMG_1007.jpeg

Just take them back for the spinnaker now. Doesn't the jib car have a piston-stop adjustment anyway?

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btaylor

New Member
View attachment 53731

From sail to aft end of gunwale, to transom, along the side tank, under the traveller, to turning block on the side tank in front of the traveller, and across the boat.

View attachment 53732
(It's the black and white line.)

A few notes:
This boat has the post-1986 support pieces under the traveller track, so there's a hole for the sheet to go through. Not needed on 70s boats :D
Ratchet blocks are customary today; they're certainly helpful but not necessary.
The cleat above the ratchet isn't absolutely necessary either, although it's a nice backup for the windward sheet, good for keeping the lazy sheet out of the water, and may be helpful for the helmsman during gybes.

Now, US 1358 does have the blocks and cleats for the spinnaker sheet in the middle of the boat, but someone has apparently repurposed them for the jib lead:

View attachment 53733

Just take them back for the spinnaker now. Doesn't the jib car have a piston-stop adjustment anyway?

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Thanks, yes the shock cord to the jib car was redundant and my crew hate it. Your layout makes total sense and many thanks! Looking forward to flying the spinnaker this weekend at practice and for our Sunday race.
 
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