Replacing Spring Post

AQBill

AQBill

Active Member
I have a '95 vintage wood Sunfish rudder with a heavily oxidized spring post that is almost warn through. Are there any tricks or recommendations regarding removal of the old one and installation of the new one? Several people have indicated that it's just pressure fit and all I need do is hit it with a hammer. Somehow I can't bring myself to do it... Any thoughts or experiences would be welcomed.
 
AQBill,

It’s kinder to the rudder if you support the wood near the post.

Rest a piece of 2x4 scrap on the end of the pin that’s sticking up, and hit the scrap block with your hammer.

When the pin is flush with the rudder, drive it the rest of the way out using a drift punch. . ., or a large nail.

Use the wood block method for installing the new post.
 

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AQBill,

If memory serves, just press fit. Check that with your dealer when you pick up your new post.

You want to be able to do this again without ripping out hunks of wood.

If the fit on the new post seems loose, fill the hole with household epoxy, let it cure, then drill a new hole in the epoxy plug one drill size smaller than the post diameter.
 
Wayne said:
If the fit on the new post seems loose, fill the hole with household epoxy, let it cure, then drill a new hole in the epoxy plug one drill size smaller than the post diameter.
Click to expand...

Wayne, I'm not sure about that; only because the epoxy is going to be much harder than the wood and if the wood is less than perfect and the hole is a drill bit size smaller, forcing the larger post through might rip out the epoxy plug.

I would recommend drilling the hole the same size as the post. If the post is loose, it shouldn't be by much, and you could just put some epoxy on it before inserting. Wipe off the excess.

If the wood hole is snug, coat the inside of it with varnish before inserting the post. this will work as an adhesive and seal moisture out of the wood.
 
Prossmann,

I see your point. Depends some on the increments of drill bits you have. My thought was 1/32” or 1/64”. Once the hole is drilled that’s about all that will remain of the epoxy for a shim as well.

Same size, line-on-line, should work. I agree, you don’t want the fit too very tight or you’d risk damaging the wood upon installation.

I was aiming for a very snug fit, tighter than you could do pressing with your fingers, but not so tight you’d need to wallop the post with a sledge. Tap was more along the lines the force I had in mind.

I also concur, if fresh wood gets exposed along the way it needs to be sealed. I am skeptical, though, of anything adhesive. The post needs replacing from time to time. Gluing it in will complicate the job next time around.
 
Agree with everything posted about the fix. however, I have never heard of one of these "wearing through." That seems nearly impossible. Are you sure it is almost worn through, and you are not seeing the notch designed into the post that keeps the spring engaged on the post? BB
 
The notch has warn - or oxidized - away so I'm worried that the springs might just slide off. Anyway, have invested in a "4 Pack" of posts...so if you know anyone that needs an extra...
 
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