Replacing halyard pulley with fairlead. Can I use toggle?

[uncutproducts]

Seems like there’s a lot of stress on that. Don’t feel like screwing into deck is strong enough even though that’s how it was from factory. Boat is old and not sure of shape of core.

Question: since I don’t want to cut inspection port to back, can I use stainless toggle bolts? Bed down with 5200.

1/4

Check out our 1/4

www.westmarine.com

 

[LVW]

Check out:

Bow Handle

I'm going to replace a missing bow handle. Can I assume there will be a below-deck backing block missing? If I just attach the handle to the deck, will I be able to lift the boat with the handle only gripping the fiberglass?

sailingforums.com

________________

My halyard block pulled out last week...

I traced it to a worn mast-top fitting. The halyard was being cut on the aluminum mast at its highest point.

This caused fraying of the halyard and resulted in my pulling extra hard to "free" the chrome-lined fairlead from the deck...

 

[signal charlie]

The halyard block or fairlead has a 3/4 inch thick wooden backer block inside the hull. As long as the previous block was holding, the new hardware should hold as well....assuming the backer block did not drop of into the hull when the old fasteners were removed. The backer block is held in place with a decades old blob of adhesive and a fiberglass strap.

Here's a photo of a halyard cleat block that we replaced, using thickened epoxy to hold it in place. The old adhesive excess is still visible and the fiberglass strap has disappeared. Further forward to the right of the mast tube you can see the notch where the halyard block backer used to be.

You can poke around inside the old fastener holes with a paper clip or awl to see if the old backer block is still there. If so, try a new bronze or marine stainless wood screw, usually #8 size to see if there is bite.

If the old fastener hole looks wallered out, we put in a thickened adhesive, THIXOFlex or could be JB Weld Wood and some toothpicks to fill the old hole. Once that dries we drill a small pilot hole and refasten with #8 bronze wood screws.

Toggles require a large hole and from our experience are near impossible to remove, unless you source true marine grade fasteners. If you have a source, please share.

 

[uncutproducts]

Thank you. Hoping it’s still attached.

The halyard block or fairlead has a 3/4 inch thick wooden backer block inside the hull. As long as the previous block was holding, the new hardware should hold as well....assuming the backer block did not drop of into the hull when the old fasteners were removed. The backer block is held in place with a decades old blob of adhesive and a fiberglass strap.

Here's a photo of a halyard cleat block that we replaced, using thickened epoxy to hold it in place. The old adhesive excess is still visible and the fiberglass strap has disappeared. Further forward to the right of the mast tube you can see the notch where the halyard block backer used to be.

View attachment 54035



You can poke around inside the old fastener holes with a paper clip or awl to see if the old backer block is still there. If so, try a new bronze or marine stainless wood screw, usually #8 size to see if there is bite.

If the old fastener hole looks wallered out, we put in a thickened adhesive, THIXOFlex or could be JB Weld Wood and some toothpicks to fill the old hole. Once that dries we drill a small pilot hole and refasten with #8 bronze wood screws.

Toggles require a large hole and from our experience are near impossible to remove, unless you source true marine grade fasteners. If you have a source, please share.