Repairing a hull

SFK

New Member
In the latest storm and flooding, my sunfish got damaged. Photos are attached, and I can provide more information. I was wondering if anyone could possibly point me to how to start to repair it (or if it is possible?). I am very new to these things and would love to try to make it sailable (doesnt have to be beautiful) and try to get my daughter back on the water in it this summer.
Thank you so much in advance!
 

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The pix aren't clear. Is the bottom (at the chine) also needing repair?

I'd get some 4-inch glass tape, cut it, leaving 2-inches additional tape at each end. Make three lengths, as you're going to be making one (1) thick fiberglass patch. (Fiberglass can also be purchased in small sheets, suitable for this repair).

Tape some plastic film across the deck inboard of the crack(s), and use a Flux brush to press resin into the tape. (And to punch-out the bubbles).

While sheet (1) is curing, add sheets two and three. Repeat while adding more resin and punching bubbles with the flux-brush.

Since the new patch will readily release from the plastic film, the cured result will have the same curve as the deck. (Although some Thixo will be needed for faring--with sandpaper--where the patch is to be inserted). Use more resin to secure the new sheet to the existing damaged deck.Trim the excess.

Turn the hull over, and using more tape and resin, approximate the underside to the cured deck patch. "Rough" the existing fiberglass hull for secure attachment. Keep the aluminum trim handy to get the correct thickness.

If any trim is missing, Alan S. Glos has spare trim. Advise dull or glossy finish when ordering.

The aluminum trim is strong, so it's important to the repair and the ends must be secure to avoid injury.
 
The pix aren't clear. Is the bottom (at the chine) also needing repair?

I'd get some 4-inch glass tape, cut it, leaving 2-inches additional tape at each end. Make three lengths, as you're going to be making one (1) thick fiberglass patch. (Fiberglass can also be purchased in small sheets, suitable for this repair).

Tape some plastic film across the deck inboard of the crack(s), and use a Flux brush to press resin into the tape. (And to punch-out the bubbles).

While sheet (1) is curing, add sheets two and three. Repeat while adding more resin and punching bubbles with the flux-brush.

Since the new patch will readily release from the plastic film, the cured result will have the same curve as the deck. (Although some Thixo will be needed for faring--with sandpaper--where the patch is to be inserted). Use more resin to secure the new sheet to the existing damaged deck.Trim the excess.

Turn the hull over, and using more tape and resin, approximate the underside to the cured deck patch. "Rough" the existing fiberglass hull for secure attachment. Keep the aluminum trim handy to get the correct thickness.

If any trim is missing, Alan S. Glos has spare trim. Advise dull or glossy finish when ordering.

The aluminum trim is strong, so it's important to the repair and the ends must be secure to avoid injury.
Thank you so much. I am currently away from the location for the next 10 days or so. I will check to see if the chine also needs repair; I think I have a fiberglass repair kit that was used for a sunfish repair. I may have a question or two as I start the process but this is really really helpful. Have a great day and season!
 
I have done a similar repair on a now J edge Sunfish. First remove the Al trim on both side so the repair for a bit. Then see how much of the deck is still glued to the hull. This is to figure out how much room you have to work.

Sand the deck and sides to feather out a couple of inches from the edge. You also need to sand the inside areas a best you can. This is to both clean the surface and to make for a better adhesion. Fiberglass repair is about proper 'scratch' for the resin to bond to and clean smooth areas for wider bonding.

You need to do and inside repair on the hull. That is get a couple of layers coming up and around the the edge. I made a form from the opposite side with glass and put that on the outside of my hull to form the bend. Once you get the inside with a couple of layers then sand the outside and get some layers on. The end result you need is the lip to be level and same thickness as original. The outside of the hull being properly shaped and just low enough for a good coat of gel coat.

Keep in mind you have to be creative to sand and lay up fiberglass inside. Like main stirrers or even the vibrating tool.

The deck is done with some like 1" strips of flat fiberglass. You lay them out separate and let them cure. Then drill the deck larger then a sheet metal screw. Then glue in the glass backers with resin and using the screws to pull it up tight. Then make a plate bigger then the area you want to patch. Then cut it to close shape. Make sure the edge is the same thickness as factory. Glue the patch in. Then sand it in a taper to the seam on both sides. Then lay up glass on top.

Then sand to just below level and put on gel coat. You want to get paint matched gel coat. If you get white you need to add a bit of yellow and black to try and make the factory color. I fail at color match so my advice ends here.
 
Wow, where did that happen at?
Is it a major repair? No.
Is it an involved, multi step on the deck/hull flange repair? Yes
Have many of us done similar repairs? Yes

PHOENIX Before.jpeg


Your fiberglass repair kit will not be big enough. You have lost a piece of deck and a piece of hull. It is possible to repair but it will be a multi step process. 1. You'll need to make a chunk of new deck and a chunk of hull to those same shapes, or see if a Forum member has donor pieces. Getting the proper thickness of the deck/hull flange is key, so that the deck edge trim will fit.
2. Cut a clean edge on the damaged hull. Wear PPE because FIBER-GLASS has a lot of glass and fibers, itchy and lung/eye irritant.
3. Put interior backer patches inside hull to graft in new repair bits.
4. Adhere new bits. Also inject resin into adjoining split seam to reseal.
5. Sand. Fair. Prime. Paint or gelcoat.
6. Reinstall trim.
7. Sail.

We were all very new to these things at one point....except Alan....he was born with a sheet in one hand and a tiller in the other. His Mom was not happy about that... And the Forum crew is happy to answer all questions.

We did a similar repair 2 years ago, but much larger area and more damage. You can peek at our boat restoration blog, keeping in mind your repair is smaller scale, but a lot of the steps are the same. Scroll down to 20 Dec 20 entry: Sunfish Repair
 
Thank you to all; and apologies for the delay (life events unexpectedly). I have never done something like this before and its pretty serious damage, I may afraid to try myself for the time being, maybe if I can find someone locally who is good at this to help me or guide me.
A neighbor offered me to use their old one in the meantime; all I need to do is re-rivet two that have come loose and it would be good to go. Any idea how to get a few rivets or what size they are that would do the trick (with a neighbors rivet gun I assume)? Sunfish direct has them in bulk but is there ones I could get easily at a hardware store etc?
Thank you all so much!
 
Drill out the loose rivets with a 1/8” bit. New rivets should be 1/8” diameter, 3/16”grip, aluminum. Not easy to find in the hardware store in my experience.
Rivet shouldn’t go through bottom of trim but if it does be sure to file down any sharp points underneath.
 
While you've got all the necessary elements (rivets, riveting tool, drill, drill bits) out, search for rusty, oversized, or other "failed" rivets. A decent riveting tool was sold at Harbor Freight for $3.95, but those days are over. :(

Sometimes, there's no fiberglass present for the rivet to hold onto. :eek: This is a good time to press a glob of thickened epoxy into the "breech". While I regularly buy THIXO, I don’t use the provided mixer, which I regard as wasteful for small repairs. Leftover THIXO can be used to fair sharp edges of the aluminum railing--particularly underneath.

That glob can be drilled out to 1/8-inch the next day, cleaned up, and a new rivet installed. :)
 
While you've got all the necessary elements (rivets, riveting tool, drill, drill bits) out, search for rusty, oversized, or other "failed" rivets. A decent riveting tool was sold at Harbor Freight for $3.95, but those days are over. :(

Sometimes, there's no fiberglass present for the rivet to hold onto. :eek: This is a good time to press a glob of thickened epoxy into the "breech". While I regularly buy THIXO, I don’t use the provided mixer, which I regard as wasteful for small repairs. Leftover THIXO can be used to fair sharp edges of the aluminum railing--particularly underneath.

That glob can be drilled out to 1/8-inch the next day, cleaned up, and a new rivet installed. :)
Editing my pop-rivet observation to add:

Aluminum pop-rivets can be ordered cheaply, but are in metric measure. :oops: The 1/8" rivet must grip at least 1/8-inch to be effective. Driving a "too-long" rivet will result in a rivet standing above its factory height.
 

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