Refinishing

S

Salty Sea Dog

New Member
I really need to refinish my dagger board, but I'm a little confused as to the specifics. Could anyone give me a list of the products I will need as well as an estimated cost? One of my friends suggested painting as a cheaper alternative to epoxy, but I would like to avoid that if I can.
 
Do a search on this forum for "varnish." You'll see many good pointers and suggestions.

I have a tip from recent personal experience: avoid letting your hair come in contact with the freshly varnished (still wet) piece of wood. It screws up both the varnish job and your hair.

Steve
 
Salty Sea Dog said:
I really need to refinish my dagger board, but I'm a little confused as to the specifics. Could anyone give me a list of the products I will need as well as an estimated cost? One of my friends suggested painting as a cheaper alternative to epoxy, but I would like to avoid that if I can.
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I paint it with epoxy, sand it down again and then varnish it multiple coats. If you want to go cheap, just do the vanish and thin the first few layers so that it will penetrate. Plan on putting on 10 coats or so.
 
Salty Sea Dog said:
Would I just buy normal epoxy resin and a different type of hardener or what?
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WEST System has a special hardner (207) for doing "transparent epoxy" work. It has some UV resistance and sets slower for better leveling. They still recommend a varnish topcoat for complete UV protection. (7.3)

see section #7
http://209.20.76.247/ss/assets/howto-pub2/Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair.pdf

You can get some good pointers by reading about the techniques wood kayak and canoe builders use.

http://www.laughingloon.com/epoxy.html

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~durgerian/id15.html
 
Salty Sea Dog said:
Would I just buy normal epoxy resin and a different type of hardener or what?
Click to expand...

ditto's to Wayne.

I don't usually buy the clear hardener, but it is probably better. I use whatever I have which is usually fast hardener (red tint)--which as Wayne says does set up too fast, while it is great for small repairs. I don't notice the color when it sets up on a wooden blade. I think the clear hardener is more important when you want to make fiberglass invisible on lighter shaded wood.

The advantage to using an epoxy base it is lasts and lasts. I did one rudder and daggerboard about 6 years ago and it is still in excellent shape.

Cost: You can buy smaller quantities of epoxy but it is still expensive for a base coat and you will have lots left over. Thin some varnish for the first few coats and then use many layers for the cheapest method.
 
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