ratchet block/cam cleat /swivel base diagram?

ylojelo

Member
Someone posted a drawing (or photo) of a ratchet block/cam cleat /swivel base that was put together using a Harken H240 base and a block that works well on the sunfish. Can anyone point me in the direction or post it again?

And APS had a Harken sale last year about this time, I thought. Is that an annual thing?
 
Here are a couple other threads about it:
http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=28892
http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=31143

I copied the pic (below) from one of those threads. I haven't gotten around to doing this upgrade myself yet, but I was planning to use these:
57mm Harken H2135 carbo ratchet block
swivel-base cam cleat (Harken 241)

I'm not sure about the sale, but if you find out about one, share it with us!

cheers,
tag

attachment.php
 
that's it! Thanks!
I think that's the way to go, of course, once I stop storing them upside-down.

I'd still like to find out about the possibility of a sale, if anyone knows:)
 
Oh, and any advice on which is a better way to go: the H019 or the H2135?

ordering from APS, so any idea which spring and strap?

Thanks
 
I can't give advice on which to choose... I asked once before, and never got an answer to the same question. I went to Harken's website to find the difference between the 2: http://www.harken.com/blocks/blockspecs.php

Any pro's out there care to weigh in on which is better and why?

thanks,
tag
 

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Most people use the H019. See the Harken catalog for the spring and strap. Or just go to West Marine or other such store to see it in person. If you can't do that, use the catalog or call APS for info.

Fred
 
I'm only familiar with the H019 so I can't compare the two.
An 11 year old can easily use the H019.

Looking at the Harken info, I'm not sure the 2135 is switchable (on/off ratchet control). I could be wrong. I think the 2135 is made to be lighter in weight which is not required for a Sunfish.

Fred
 
I just got off the phone with Christopher at Torresen Marine (http://www.torresen.com/ or http://www.sunfishdirect.com/), and he highly recommended the 2135. He said the 019 has been around since the 1960's, and they keep it in stock for people looking to match the existing look (with the metal side/strap plates). He said the 2135 is a bit lighter and has newer technology built into it, and it is a few bucks cheaper, too!

tag
 
I also just found this on Harken's website (talking about Lasers, but...): http://www.harken.com/OneDesign/laser.php

"Most sailors now use the Harken Laser Vang and have replaced the older-style Hexaratchets (019) with 57 mm switchable Carbo Ratchets (2135), or load-sensing Carbo Ratchamatics® (2625) for their mainsheet blocks. Some skippers are going even smaller and using 40 mm Carbo Ratchets (2608) for the mainsheet. These low-friction, compact blocks are 30% lighter and have a 60% higher working load than Classic blocks." —Mitja Margon - Managing Director Harken Slovenia; Olympic classes specialist.
 
thanks for the info. I have the H241 on both boats right now, and I don't think my daughter could hold it for long, so thats my interest in the ratchet block . (I'll order it when I get back from Costa Rica ;) )
 
do I want switchable?
Keep in mind, we've adapted this block from it's intended use controlling jib and spinnaker sheets on large boats.
news_salperton.t.jpg
images
In that application R & L make a functional difference, for us switchable is merely a nicety so if we get flummoxed threading the sheet we can flip a toggle instead of having to untie the stopper knot and rethread the block. :eek:


Top Six Ratchet Blocks Q & A

http://www.harken.com/blocks/QandARatcheBlocks.php


ratchet_switches.jpg



Aren't you glad it's just a Sunfish

1081-12552818389Hls.jpg
 
From APS:

H2135 57mm carbo ratchet
H071 stand up spring
HSB2 spring cup
R2830 eyestrap

they didn't have screws that fit. If anyone happens to know what length & thread screws I need to screw the eyestrap into the H241, that would save me a lot of time (my boat is hours away)
 
do you already have the H241? I keep debating whether I should skip the H241 and just upgrade to the 2135. I just like the option to cleat every once in a while... I don't know if I like it $50 worth, though!

tag
 
yeah, I bought the H241 last year, so I got to spread the cost out over time. I used it (well, them, since I have a pair of sunfish) last summer and felt I'd like to add the block for ease of use. A friend had recommended the H241 since both boats still had the stock brass hook.
 
the screw size is 10x32, but finding them short enough, 1/4", in stainless steel, is proving difficult.
 
Did you ever find a source for the short #10-32 screws? I've been thinking about making this modification but don't want to start down this path if I can't find all the necessary parts.
 
Did you ever find a source for the short #10-32 screws? I've been thinking about making this modification but don't want to start down this path if I can't find all the necessary parts.
McMaster-Carr.com has them


Material Type - Stainless Steel
Finish - Plain
Type - 18-8 Stainless Steel
Drive Style - Phillips
Thread Size - 10-32
Length - 1/4"
$7.77 per 100

91772A825L.GIF



 
this isn't in regard to buying the shorty screws, but more of an update on what I decided to do. I skipped buying the swiveling cam cleat base, instead buying a Harken 150 cam cleat, and installing it on the lip of the cockpit (similar to the method Wayne referenced a while back, might have been another thread). I did buy the eyestrap, stand-up spring, and spring cup (same as ylojelo).

so here's my frustration: I can't for the life of me find an easy (or quick) way to get the spring compressed, and then get the ratchet block installed with the pin and spring pin to lock it all in place. I think one of the setup/rigging manual shows using 2 pieces of spring to tie the spring down (compressed), and then connect the ratchet block to the eyestrap, and then remove the strings.

to make matters worse, it seemed to me that the spring was WAY too stiff, and the ratchet block wouldn't be able to swivel when I would tack to the other side. (using the swiveling base cam cleat might eliminate this as a problem, though).

anyway, I trailer my boat a lot, and I don't want to drive down the road with the ratchet block flapping in the breeze (probably not a big deal - I just don't want to do it), and I don't really want to mess with the string on the spring trick every time I rig up and down for a day of sailing.

so, I've basically just been skipping the spring and spring cup, and using just the eyestrap with the Harken 2135 ratchet block. I like it a lot, and if the wind is really light, I slip the line down to the Harken 150 cam cleat to cleat the line for a minute or two. I attached a picture of the eyestrap with the 150 cam cleat mounted on the cockpit lip.

cheers,
tag
 

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so here's my frustration: I can't for the life of me find an easy (or quick) way to get the spring compressed, and then get the ratchet block installed with the pin and spring pin to lock it all in place. I think one of the setup/rigging manual shows using 2 pieces of spring to tie the spring down (compressed), and then connect the ratchet block to the eyestrap, and then remove the strings.
of the eyestrap with the 150 cam cleat mounted on the cockpit lip.
I definitely like your setup ;)

I do feel your pain..., using string I must have launched my spring into every corner of my garage before I stopped to re-think things.

First, there are a couple of different spring sizes. You may have gotten one for the full-size ratchet block instead of the mini-ratchet.

561.jpg

I think I'm using the H071 w/HSB2 end caps.

What I eventually ended up doing is compressing the spring about 98% in a vise and wrapping the compressed coils with strapping tape..., which isn't as easy as it might sound. The first 180 degree flip in the vise took the help of a pair of mini-vise grip pliers and some careful handling.

Tip: center the spring in the vise jaws and hopefully you'll have just enough of the spring sticking above the jaw to slip a strip of strapping tape through and make 3 or 4 wraps.

Getting the cotter rings on is another fun task. I've gotten better, but those first few attempts launched cotter rings, who knows where. No wonder they come in 10 packs.

.
 
Wayne, I did get the 071 spring, but only one HSB2 spring cup (well, technically, I bought 2 of each - hoping to rig my Super Porpoise with the exact same setup for the ratchet block). I'll probably leave it as is for now, and maybe fiddle with the vise method sometime later, when I'm at my dad's house (I don't have a vise).

So, does your method allow you to remove the block frequently or just to get it installed the 1st time?

cheers,
tag
 
No, I have never found 1/4" screws. If you buy 100 of them, I'll buy a few from you. I haven't installed it yet since my Sunfish is being stored laying upside down on the ground.
 
So, does your method allow you to remove the block frequently or just to get it installed the 1st time?
I have only removed the block once in over 10 years so I could more easily repair the daggerboard trunks upper seam.

.
 
Could you compress the spring with a couple zip ties and cut them off after the install..............
Might work. The problem I found with string that also might exist with zip ties is a tendancy to slip and bunch to one side.
 
No, I have never found 1/4" screws. If you buy 100 of them, I'll buy a few from you. I haven't installed it yet since my Sunfish is being stored laying upside down on the ground.

I've ordered a box of 100, so will have plenty to spare. If you want to send me your address, I'll mail you a couple when they arrive.
 
to make matters worse, it seemed to me that the spring was WAY too stiff, and the ratchet block wouldn't be able to swivel when I would tack to the other side. (using the swiveling base cam cleat might eliminate this as a problem, though).

anyway, I trailer my boat a lot, and I don't want to drive down the road with the ratchet block flapping in the breeze (probably not a big deal - I just don't want to do it), and I don't really want to mess with the string on the spring trick every time I rig up and down for a day of sailing.

cheers,
tag

We all seem to agree that installing a block while keeping the spring compressed is a pain. Not surprisingly, just about everybody that sails Lasers or Sunfish leaves the block on whether trailering or not...
 

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