Questions on some sunfish repairs...

T

trist007

Member
I have a 1978 Sunfish. My traveler ripped up so I bought a new one. However, it looks like the new design no longer has a loop in the center where the mainsheet bowline ties onto. It's just two loops the go in the port and starboard strap eyes.

Traveler for the Sunfish®

In any case I'll try it out. I had to unscrew one of the screws on each starboard straps. Do I need to put some glue or something inside the holes before I screw them back in for a better hold? If so what do you guys use?

Also, on the top of the mast where the halyard goes through(fairlead?) the black top part is starting to coming off. I see two holes on each side where a headless screw goes into. I see it on one side but not the other. Seems to have fallen out. Or should I just get a new mast top halyard end cap from intensity sails?

Mast Top Halyard End Cap for Sunfish®

Also, the tape around where my ronstan tiller extension meets the tiller is coming off. Is that a special tape? Or what do you guys use?

-Tristan
 
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For the traveler/bridle, and old silicone will do when reinstalling the screws. All you are trying to do is waterproof the holes. Don't use a 5200 silicone or glue - you may need to remove the screws again someday!

The mast cap uses little pins to hold itself on. Sounds like one is gone. Perhaps you can fine one - otherwise a pop rivet works - just be sure not to place the rivet where the halyard can wear against it.

I am not sure where you have tape on the tiller extension, but electrical tape or duct tape both work fine.

BB
 
Traveler never had a 3rd loop OEM. that would be something someone did to it. With a 3rd loop locking the mainsheet connect point its a bridle. Without, the mainsheet is allowed to travel along the line.

The center loop would be because they wanted to pull the boom in TIGHT for close haul tack, but pulled in closer to center than the edge of the hull at the stern really means you're trying to haul it too far. It can be fun for seeing how far you can lean the boat over, but that's all its good for.
 
It is always better when replacing your old three loop bridle to switch to the two loop traveler. With the three loop bridle when you are on starboard or port tack, all the load ends up on one eye strap. With the two loop traveler the load is put on both eye straps. Less chance of pulling the eye strap out of the deck. Always reseal with silicone or 3M 4200. You can also use Goop Marine, available at most hardware stores.

As long as there is no wear or worn out surfaces on your mast cap I would pop rivet or use a tapered pin to re secure it. I have tapered pins available. Contact me at cjo1023 at yahoo dot com.

If the tape for the tiller extension wraps around the tiller, then it is there probably to keep the cover plate from coming unsnapped from the extension base. Just peel off and re-tape with electrical tape or boat rigging tape. Check your universal joint and material. If cracked or worn you should replace the universal. These are available at Intensity Sails.
 
I put silicone in the holes. I let it dry. But when I screw in the screws they screw down to the bottom but they continue to screw without feeling resistance when they get down to the bottom. That makes me feel like it won't have a good hold. Should I use a bigger screw so that it can get a better grip or will that do? I pull up on them and they hold pretty good but I just don't feel reassured because the screws still turn.
 
Appears that your backing blocks of wood have fallen or are rotted and will not hold the screws. You will have to install an inspection port and put new backing blocks in. I would actually suggest that you then bolt the eye straps in place with either an aluminum backing plate or solid hard wood. If you are in the New England area I would be glad to help.
 
I'm going to order the 5 inch inspection port. So the diameter of the hole is 5 inches? Does it come with a rubber seal? I see that they don't come with screws. What kind of screws are they?a
 
The inspection ports generally come with a rubber O-ring to seal between the lid and the base plate. Use silicone caulk to seal the base to the deck. I suggest using stainless steel bolts to fasten the base plate to the deck.
 
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