Question on year of AMF Sunfish

Thread starter #1
Greetings from a new member. I owned a 1976 Alcort for seven years and upgraded to a larger daysailer, looking to go back to a Sunfish. I'm talking with a seller in a neighboring state, the boat has no hull number, so it's definitely pre 1973. I've become aware of cockpit design issues with the 71/72 year causing irreparable cracks in the hull. This boat has a small cockpit with storage compartment, flanged edge. The mystery is that there's an aluminum channel at the cockpit/deck joint. There's also an aluminum edging around the gunwhales. Anyone have a clue as to what year this boat could be? Thanks for any help. Sunfish 2.jpg
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
#2
Is the boat in question the one in the pic? What color is the hull? If the hull is yellow, I am pretty certain by the color scheme it is a 1975 or a 74. Based on the new style rudder it is a 1972 or later, but again, I am pretty sure that color scheme is from 1975 or else 74. If the hull is white, I think it could maybe be a '73.

You are saying there is an aluminum channel where the white tub hits the underside of the deck? I don't think that is a mystery, just an aftermarket addition. All boats up thru 88 had aluminum edging at the gunwales, and from say 67 or 68 on thru 88 had the same aluminum material at the cockpit opening on the deck. BB
 
Last edited:

wjejr

Active Member
#3
I have a 1971 (storage area, old rudder style) that I just picked up last winter. I have read the same article on cockpit design problems and was a bit worried. Other on this site said, "Fear not," and so far the boat seems totally solid. I will keep my fingers crossed. I was also advised to trailer or car top the boat upside down, which is excellent advice no matter what the vintage.

Best of luck to you.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#4
"...the boat has no hull number..."
It appears this boat should have a hull number; in that case, a significant repair may have been done to the transom. You could use that knowledge to have the present owner reconsider his price. :cool:
 
Thread starter #5
Thanks for the replies. Beldar, the hull is yellow. The aluminum mentioned in the cockpit is a trim strip around the bottom edge. The detail I was looking for is the glass joint between the cockpit side walls and the deck, which is apparently not visible to the naked eye, you have to stick your noggin into the cockpit and look at it from that angle. Regardless, I've decided to proceed and am picking her up on Friday. I don't have a trailer yet (ordered one on Amazon, same trailer as Harbor Freight but for less money), will transport her in the 8' bed of my F150 with tailgate down and will invert her for the ride. New sail also on the way from Intensity Sails. I bought a main for my O'Day Daysailer II from them and have been very pleased with it. Thanks for all the help, looking forward to splashing her and kicking up a wake!
 
Thread starter #8
Picked her up yesterday....12 hour day from Tennessee to Georgia and back. There are a few issues, but I wasn't expecting perfection for what I paid. I need to install an inspection port to replace the bow handle, some glass repair to do around the halyard block, fortunately the mast well is intact. I'm guessing she got turtled or had a sword fight with another boat or a tree. Some crazing around the edges of the cockpit, one line that might require more than just gelcoat. Looks like deck will get painted. Upper boom is toast, hoping to buy blank tube stock if I can determine the specs on the metal. Tiller, rudder and daggerboard are wood painted white, needs stripping and varnish. DePersia bailer is badly corroded, some deck rigging improvements and new sheet and halyard. Oh well, I needed a project to keep me off the streets.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#9
Thanks for the update. Got any pics to share?

Mast -

Style: Round Tube
Finish: Clear Anodized
Length: 10' (3.05 m)
OD: 2-1/4" (57.15 mm)
Wall Thickness: .083" (2.11 mm)


Spars -

Style: Round Tube
Finish: Clear Anodized
Length: 13' 8" (4.17 m)
OD 1-1/2" (38.1 mm)
Wall Thickness: .065" (1.65 mm)
 
Thread starter #10
Thanks for the update. Got any pics to share?

Mast -

Style: Round Tube
Finish: Clear Anodized
Length: 10' (3.05 m)
OD: 2-1/4" (57.15 mm)
Wall Thickness: .083" (2.11 mm)


Spars -

Style: Round Tube
Finish: Clear Anodized
Length: 13' 8" (4.17 m)
OD 1-1/2" (38.1 mm)
Wall Thickness: .065" (1.65 mm)

Thank you sir! There's a welding shop nearby, I plan on paying them a visit Monday.
 
Thread starter #14
I think it will be a little more complicated than that. Here's a pic of where the deck is cracked and lifting around the halyard block. I'll take any advice on how to proceed with the glass repair, I've never worked with it before, although I do have 25 years experience in woodworking including restoration of antique moldings using polyester resin fillers. Just going to take my time and get it right. There's also been a repair on a small section of the rub rail that needs redoing. Extra bonus pic of the hull,which looks great, no issues at all. IMG_1054_1.jpg IMG_1055_1.jpg IMG_1056_1.jpg
 
Thread starter #19
Checked with local welding supply places, all I can get around here is 6063 with .125 wall thickness, raw finish. I'm wondering three things: Will the end caps fit with the extra wall thickness? Will extra weight be a factor in boat handling? Will raw finish be that much of an issue in a fresh water environment, especially since I'll trailer the boat and store in climate controlled garage? Discuss.
 

danpal

Active Member
#20
Trying to source an aluminum pipe in order to make a mast has been discussed quite a bit on this site and I don't think I've heard of anyone who's been successful. Your best bet is to find a Sunfish dealer and buy new or to find a used mast on Craigslist. Craigslist is how I found my second mast and spars which were only $100. Much cheaper than buying new but you have to be patient.
 
Top