Question about hiking straps

Salty Sea Dog

New Member
I have read the FAQ on how to install a hiking strap, but it wasn't really that clear. In the front of the cockpit, I plan to install it with an i-bolt through the lip of the cockpit with a backing plate (or something similar). I am confused about how to do install it in the back of the cockpit.
In the back I could do it just like the front, but it seems like it would be better for the hiking strap to be fastened farther down near the floor of the cockpit (right?). The FAQ diagram shows it with i-bolts through the lip at the edge of the storage compartment. This is what I don't understand. Do the bolts go all the way through the lip and bolt on the other side or do they just go in with marine sealant? The description says just to screw them into the wall between the cockpit and the floor with lots of marine sealant, but that doesn't really seem very secure, and that isn't what either of the diagrams show. Basically I'm just not sure how it's really supposed to work and I don't want to start drilling until it makes sense. Thanks for any input.
 
You're going to need something behind the bolt to spread out the load like a nut and fender washer which means a inspection hole off to the side of the cockpit. Been thinking about rivet-nuts as a fast and easy way to secure a strap. Check this out. . .

http://www.acerivet.com/klik_poly_nuts.html

Say's it is good for high loads on thin fiberglass. That would give you a clean install with no inspection port. If you were not sure it was strong enought you could install the inspection port, put in some fiberglass reinforcement and the rivet-nut would still give you a much better install than a bolt or pop-rivit. The fiberglass would be less likely to crack out over time.
 
HikingStrapInstall.gif
The first diagram shows a bolt going through the lip and coming out on the other side. I guess I could try to put a washer and nut on it there, but the lip isn't a very flat surface and it seems like a bad idea. Has anyone ever done it that way? The second diagram just looks like a screw stuck in the side of the wall with no support, which also seems like a very bad idea. I would like to avoid installing another inspection port, and I'm not even sure where I could put one in the back of the cockpit. I couldn't put it inside the storage compartment because the saw won't fit in there. Any suggestions? I'm sure plenty of people have done this before, but I can't think of a way to make it work.
 
I installed a strap as shown in the bottom picture. Yes, that included putting in a port so that I could install a (metal) backing plate.

No backing plate is necessary for the rear attachments points. I used two eyestraps; one (slightly) to the left and one (slightly) to the right of the centerline. Hence, four bolts to spread the load. Nuts on the ends of the bolts.

You do have to drill the holes for the eyestraps at just the right location/height so that you can (freely) screw the nuts onto the bolts. There isn't a great deal of space there.
 
How about to install the back connection on a pre-71 boat?... that is, one without the storage compartment. I figure I pretty much have to install a port in the back somewhere.

I will probably put an inspection port in the back wall of the cockpit (I think Nightsailor recommended that a while back), and then another inspection port up on the deck between the daggerboard slot and the coaming. I need them to dry it out and inspect things anyway, and it'll make it easier to install a hiking strap if I plan ahead.

I already have the new rudder mount, so I don't need one too far back.

tag
 
Hence, four bolts to spread the load. Nuts on the ends of the bolts.

You do have to drill the holes for the eyestraps at just the right location/height so that you can (freely) screw the nuts onto the bolts. There isn't a great deal of space there.

Wait, how do you get the nuts on the bolts? The nuts would have to be inside of the hull, right? How do you do that without an inspection port?
 
You're going to need something behind the bolt to spread out the load like a nut and fender washer which means a inspection hole off to the side of the cockpit. Been thinking about rivet-nuts as a fast and easy way to secure a strap. Check this out. . .

http://www.acerivet.com/klik_poly_nuts.html

Say's it is good for high loads on thin fiberglass. That would give you a clean install with no inspection port. If you were not sure it was strong enought you could install the inspection port, put in some fiberglass reinforcement and the rivet-nut would still give you a much better install than a bolt or pop-rivit. The fiberglass would be less likely to crack out over time.

I used some (from a different mfg) for the coaming, worked perfectly, although this company (Acerivet.com) only offers "ribbed" ones in a steel/zinc. I believe that the "ribbed' ones would be that absolute correct one, for fiberglass, but you would want them in stainless, or maybe.... aluminum, not too sure if aluminum would be strong enough at the threads?
 
Wait, how do you get the nuts on the bolts? The nuts would have to be inside of the hull, right? How do you do that without an inspection port?

No inspection port is needed; the bolts stick out into the storage space (cubby). See the upper diagram above. I am sorry about the confusion I created.

 
I used some (from a different mfg) for the coaming, worked perfectly, although this company (Acerivet.com) only offers "ribbed" ones in a steel/zinc. I believe that the "ribbed' ones would be that absolute correct one, for fiberglass, but you would want them in stainless, or maybe.... aluminum, not too sure if aluminum would be strong enough at the threads?

Note that the coaming sees no loads, but if the strap pulls out, the sailor swims.... :eek:
 
How about to install the back connection on a pre-71 boat?... that is, one without the storage compartment. I figure I pretty much have to install a port in the back somewhere.

I will probably put an inspection port in the back wall of the cockpit (I think Nightsailor recommended that a while back), and then another inspection port up on the deck between the daggerboard slot and the coaming. I need them to dry it out and inspect things anyway, and it'll make it easier to install a hiking strap if I plan ahead.

I already have the new rudder mount, so I don't need one too far back.

tag

I agree that, in the absence of the storage area, you will need a port to install a backing plate for the aft attachment of the strap. With such a plate you need only one eyestrap. That's how fishes leave the factory these days.

Whether to put the port in the back wall of the cockpit (Nightsailor), or in the deck is a matter of personal choice. Most people cut the deck.
 
With respect to the upper diagram, I'd add a stiff bungee to the strap so that an accidental fall on the strap doesn't damage the attaching points. (Or add stress cracks).

HikingStrapInstall.gif


WRT to the lower diagram (and using the eyebolt connection shown in the upper diagram), you could drill the hole larger, and thread the eyebolt through a narrow inside-diameter plastic poly-pipe. (As a "sleeve").

A tight "interference fit" would limit the water that could accidentally enter the hull through rainfall, condensation or through misadventure. A "Nylock" locking nut on each eyebolt would keep the eyebolt in place without strain between the two surfaces. I'd use only enough tension upon tightening to keep it stationary, and to "swell" the plastic tube into being watertight.

JMHO.
 

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