Picture of laser inspection port

I am going to try to install an inspection port so I can fix a leaking mast step. Can someone post pictures of their inspection port so I can figure out best placement before I cut any holes. Also there are some inspection ports with screws and some without, is there any difference? Since the port will be on the deck should I get white?
 
Ah, i think white would look nice, black is ugly when it goes on white, but ypur choice. Whatever you do, DO NOT GO TOO CLOSE TO THE MAST STEP. It will become weakened and over the course of a season could break. I think from memory it is a minimum of 10 inches to the closest side from the mast step for a good position. Get someone else to bakc this up. Hope everything works out!
 
thsi is what happens if you go too close
 

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I'll snap a picture of mine when I get back from classes and post it for you, along with the pros and cons of the glue on type and screw on type.
 
Nice carnage pic 171107, got a question for you, where is the inspection port located? Definately a major repair job ahead.
Fishingmickey
150087/181157
 
OOPS! sorry guys, that was the wrong picture, i cant seem to find my other mast step photo. Basically the other pic just had a huge crack running done toward the ast step from the whole and had sheared off a bit of decking.
 
jwisenb495 said:
I am going to try to install an inspection port so I can fix a leaking mast step. Can someone post pictures of their inspection port so I can figure out best placement before I cut any holes. Also there are some inspection ports with screws and some without, is there any difference? Since the port will be on the deck should I get white?

Some people recommend staying off the centerline -- apparently some boats have a wooden stiffener or stringer running down the centerline of the deck, which you don't want to cut. Mine does not, maybe because it was never there, or maybe because the prior owner tore it out when he installed the inspection port right on the centerline.

It also makes sense (although I'm not a structural engineer and I don't play one on TV) to stay off the most heavily torqued part of the deck. My wild guess would be that you want to avoid the line that extends from the mast step to the closest point on the gunwale, which I think is going to be a little bit forward of abeam of the mast step.

Smaller is better. But it's a lot easier to work through a larger opening. The better the surgeon, the smaller the hole they need to make in you to get the job done :(
 
Hi,

If I were putting in a port specifically for mast step base work then I'd go 10-11" from the edge of the mast hole, at a 4 to 4:30 position. One pic attached. Being aft of the mast, allows you to use the same hole to thru bolt other fixtures.

Very old boats did have a beam on centerline, but that ended in the early 70's. However I still avoid centerline, as the deck isn't flat, thus the frame of the port would bend if you put it there, or you have to build it up til it's flat. Just off centerline is essentially flat.

10-11" away avoids the strength weakening issues, but it also lets you get your arm, and elbow in. Once you get the elbow in, you can bend it and reach all over, which helps alot (as you are working blind, with your face smooshed into the deck).

I use Viking 5", cut with a saber saw (trace the top, for an ideal template). If you are going to do a lot of work, then I'd sand the glass edge after cutting, and brush on 2 coats of WEST, to both seal the foam, and to smooth the cut glass, so that it doesn't end up ripping your arm apart.

I use 5200, no screws or bolts, but Fred and other Pro's don't like this. If I was to put in fasteners, i'd use 2 bolts, but I'd dremel out the foam after drilling, tape the bottom, fill with WEST, then drill again. This would stiffen and seal the foam, enough to make a bolt or screw worth the effort.

Yup, long answer cause it's raining here on a Sat.

Al Russell 182797
 

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Vtgent49 I just got my 5" vk white port is a saber easier than getting a 5" hole saw? I got the 5200 sealant should I fill in the screw holes with this also? I also ordered 3m silicone marine grade sealant is there a difference? Could you email that pic of your boat with port to me so I can enlarge it I can't seam to do that on this site. As you can tell I am very nervous about cutting a hole in the boat. One more question should I put some sealant in the mast step? I think the only reason it is leaking is that there are three pin holes in it. I know that glassing and wrapping will strenghten around the tube but still thought I should try to fill the holes from the inside. [email protected]
 
So sorry, to be honest I completely forgot about this :(


On the first picture the bow is to the right hand side, and towards the top-right in the second picture. That's a 5" port if I remember correctly, and I used 3M 5200 and some nuts and bolts to keep it secure.

I'd opt towards getting a port with both nuts and bolts, and using an adhesive. The nuts and bolts add a little more strength over time, and the adhesive acts as a sealant. Many people will say to put the port behind the mast step for structural reasons, but I've had no issues with it (hull is a 1974) where it has been for the past 3 seasons of HEAVY use (6+ hours a day on the water, generally 20+ knots).


Again, sorry I forgot about this, and good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions.

David
 

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David thanks for the picture and info. I recieved a VK1101 port from aps yesterday it has screwholes but no screws also did not come with an O ring (do I need one)? The only screws I saw on their site are with other parts. Will those screws work?
 
You should be able to go to any hardware store and get some stainless steel screws, hey will do the trick.

O-rings go between the port itself and the cover, and they help keep water out. If it didn't come one I would call/email APS and ask if it's required for that model. Some models don't need them, but most do.


In regards to the screws, as long as their stainless they should work. I can't remember the length you will need, sorry. Make sure you get some 3M 5200 or the equivalent though, that's really important. :)

Once again, if you have any further questions, feel free to ask.
 
Port should have come with O-Ring - It will leak w/o it.

If you are going to use fasteners, you want to go with bolts with washers/nuts, not screws - the foam sandwich is easily stripped by a screw. You should be able to use either size 8 or size 10 bolts (don't over tighten)

FWIW I have a hull where we only used thickened epoxy to attach the port on the deck and it's been solid and leak free for 20 years, so I'm in agreement with vtgent49 as far as not going the bolt in route in the foam area of the deck
 
Ok I just emailed aps to ask about the O ring also asked what they recommended for bolts or screws. What about the saw do you think it is easier with a jig or 5" hole saw?
 
I used a jigsaw for mine, since I did not have access to a hole saw. It worked fine, and as long as you're careful not to cut too much (leaving a gap fir water to leak in) you should be alright.


Honestly, I've never used a hole saw, so I don't know much about them, but from my experience, a jigsaw will work.
 
Jig saw with a fine blade (metal cutting) does the job well enough. Hole saw is easier if you have access to one.

6 of one, half dozen of the other sort of deal
 
Hi again.

I've never seen a 5" hole saw (nor looked for one). And the Viking 5" has a 5" opening, but the hole needed for it is 5 7/16". So.......

Use bolts if you want, and screws may help too. If you use 5200 (not reccommended by everyone) it will need to be lightly weighted or clamped for 3+ days. Silicone should be a few days faster drying.

The Viking o ring is tiny, white, and is right where the very outer edge of the door will touch it.

I know it's is hard to saw the nice boat open, my daughter couldn't look when I cut hers! But she was amazed that it was damp inside, and weighed three pounds more than mine. Practice on some scrap plywood, starting in a drilled hole. Then "just do it".

Al
 

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