Painting a laser hull

sail_moe

New Member
I know there was an article on Dr. Laser on this.. I miss that website

I have an older 80s Laser hull. It looks like someone painted it at one time as it has a cream color on top with the original white paint underneath it. Last summer I sanded off as much of the cream color as I could but it still has spots of this cream color all over it. I have almost taken the paint down to bare fiberglass so I can't sand anymore. She is smooth as a baby's butt but she is REALLY ugly. Looks like she has oil stains on the bottom.

Anyone have any luck with painting a laser hull?
 
Painting is expensive. People have used Awlgrip, but you need professional equipment to do that and the paint itself is rather expensive too. I think it would be easily over $500.

If there are areas where all the gelcoat is gone, and the fiberglass (which will look dark, or greenish) is exposed, use some marine tex or gelcoat to fill it up.
Do a search on this forum. many people have made good comments on how to sand a hull, how to use marine tex or gelcoat and why not to paint.

Good luck!

GWF
 
If you have a buddy who paints cars have him help ypou prep the hull and use a top notch car paint.


If you are not going to beat the hull there are lots of a fine two package paints which will do fine.

Don't use something that simply air drys.


If you are going to beat the hull, you don't care how it looks anyway and you would not have started this thread.
 
Yup. Two part atoumotive paints are great and cheaper than AwlGrip. An HVLP sprayer is the ticket. I will say that I have seen some pretty impressive jobs using AwlGrip and the roll and tip method. No fancy gear needed. It's an option that shouldn't be discounted.
 
For the hull, don't use auto paint or anything, it has to be gelcoat. You can get protested for having paint like that. However, the gelcoat is expensive and it takes ALOT of it to cover the whole hull.

And no, repainting the hull WITH GELCOAT is legal.
 
computeroman2 said:
For the hull, don't use auto paint or anything, it has to be gelcoat. You can get protested for having paint like that. However, the gelcoat is expensive and it takes ALOT of it to cover the whole hull.

And no, repainting the hull WITH GELCOAT is legal.

Really? The classrules on coatings state the following (this is from "part two"):

"8. HULL COATINGS
The use of slowly soluble applications which might alter the boundary layer characteristics of the hull are prohibited."

I do not think that auto paint is a slowly soluble application, right? Do I miss something here? Has anyone ever been protested for this reason?

GWF
 
I ran into a similiar problem, and I asked quite a few people. That problem involved my '76 boat, and i wanted to fill the gelcoat as there were lots of scratches in it.


anyway, the part of the rule you stated, "the use of slowly soluble applications which might alter the boundary layer characteristics of the hull are prohibited," refers to special paint with minute capsules in it that slowly release a lubricant. The effect is similiar to rigging a machine at the bow which constantly pours soap solution or some other lubricant over the hull, making it faster; like putting wax on a ski. the release of lubricant would alter the boundary layer, creating a very slippery layer between the hull and the water.

Also, i guess I phrased my answer wrong. Some paints will release stuff over a period of time, so using them would technically be illegal. However, the bigger issue is that the dried surface of paint like awl-grip and car paint is extremely course compared to gelcoat, almost like taping sandpaper to the hull. The reason cars feel so smooth is because they have a clear coat painted over which is similiar to gelcoat, but not meant for water.
Using something besides gelcoat will work, but it definitely won't be fast. At all.
 
Computeroman2,
That is how I would explain that rule, but you seemed rather convinced that painting the hull with paint is illegal.
I entirely disagree with you on the idea that paint is slow. If you apply it with a brush perhaps, but even then it can be sanded to a smooth finish. As long as you do all the prep work in the right way and apply it with a spray gun the result could be fantastic. My concern would be that paint is often softer than gelcoat and easily scratches.

GWF
 
I believe you folks are focused on the wrong rule. Look at Rule 11, especially the word "refinishing".



11. HULL FINISH
(a) Waxing, polishing and fine wet and dry sanding of the hull is permitted, provided the intention and effect is to polish the hull only.
Polishing/sanding shall not be used to remove mould imperfections.
(b) Sanding and refinishing of the hull with the intention or effect to lighten the hull or improve the performance, finish, materials or
shape beyond the original is not permitted.

In my opinion the rule is sloppily drafted, and it ought to address the obvious case of people wanting to repaint their old boats. It should come out and say either:

Painting or otherwise recoating the hull for the purpose of repair and restoration is permitted

or else

The hull shall not be painted or refinished with any material other than one substantially identical with the original gelcoat


But in practical terms, to make a protest stick, wouldn't the protestor need to explain why the protested finish is "better" than the original? Is awlgrip "better" than gelcoat?

My guess (but ask a measurer for a real opinion) is that nobody would look askance at you if you put paint -- almost any kind of paint -- on an old laser, but if you took a new laser and sanded it and put some kind of gee-wiz paint on the bottom, you'd have some 'splaining to do.

My old beater laser was through to the glass in a couple of places. There's no way I was going to put a $500 paint job on a $750 boat, but I wanted to protect the glass. I rolled and tipped an Interlux epoxy (VC127), and sanded out the finish. For me, way faster, cheaper, and less skill-intensive than trying to use Awlgrip or gelcoat. You'd have a hard time convincing me that the paint is a cheat; I can't imagine it being any faster or otherwise better than gelcoat.

But as I said, you'd need to ask some measurers
 
Phooey.. I thought the rule was crystal clear. That shows what I know.

I do know exactly what the rule means. So, maybe I can rephrase it so others will also know.

Overriding rule...Lasers are Lasers and the object is to sail similar boats. You can't mess with a Laser unless the rules say you can.....so the boats will all be the same.

The rule in question.

1. You cannot paint on a magic substance which would ooze out and make the boat go faster.
This rule is based upon a worry that something like that might be developed someday. Currently, with the technoloqy we have, you would have to carry a few tons of our very best oozy goop in your hull at the beginning of the race so you could slowly release it as you sail around the course. It ain't happnion' with car paint and unless you have invented the magic goo, you don't need to worry about this rule.

2. This rule is to keep us from having an "arms race." I could take a brand new Laser into my shop, spend lots of money and present a flawless hull. It would be slightly faster than the stock Laser.
How much faster is anybody's guess but, I know there are plenty of people who would spend the money if it meant "having an edge" was the result.
I know it is true because I perform exactly that sort of work for sailors who compete in other racing sailboats. People regularly pay me thousands of dollars to fair and polish their racing sailboats.
The Laser class does not want the game to be about spending lots of money, so our rules say...

You can fix the boat but if you make the thing better than new, we will have to toss your butt and your cheater boat ( which is not a laser anymore) out. That is not the game we want to play.

Please read the rules again...If you do not think I just gave a pretty good rendition of what they say, please say so.
If you can write the rule better so it will be more clear for others..PLEASE submit your draft to this list for discussion or to the ILCA for their consideration.

Honestly, those of us who have been involved in the rules process thought we had this one down pretty well...apparently not?.
 
I understand with crystal clarity the intent of the rule and support it wholeheartedly. Taking a new hull, fairing it, longboarding it, and putting a mirror-smooth rock-hard magic polymer finish on it is clearly illegal. Patching up dings in your gelcoat is clearly OK.

It's the "in between" where the rule falls down. Take my case. I don't have any reason to believe that VC127 is intrinsically any better than gelcoat. It might be a little harder, but gelcoat is pretty hard, too. I used it because it was way cheaper and easier than gelcoat or 2-part PU. But if I had put VC-127 on a newer boat and entered into serious races I could imagine someone raising a protest.

I dunno, you're a measurer, and you also know a ton about resins 'n stuff. How would you rule on repainting a boat with:

a) Gelcoat
b) House paint
c) Awlgrip
d) VC-127
e) Unobtainum-enhanced polymer modified with finely ground mermaid scales.
 
Chris123 said:
I understand with crystal clarity the intent of the rule and support it wholeheartedly. Taking a new hull, fairing it, longboarding it, and putting a mirror-smooth rock-hard magic polymer finish on it is clearly illegal. Patching up dings in your gelcoat is clearly OK.

It's the "in between" where the rule falls down. Take my case. I don't have any reason to believe that VC127 is intrinsically any better than gelcoat. It might be a little harder, but gelcoat is pretty hard, too. I used it because it was way cheaper and easier than gelcoat or 2-part PU. But if I had put VC-127 on a newer boat and entered into serious races I could imagine someone raising a protest.

I dunno, you're a measurer, and you also know a ton about resins 'n stuff. How would you rule on repainting a boat with:

a) Gelcoat
b) House paint
c) Awlgrip
d) VC-127
e) Unobtainum-enhanced polymer modified with finely ground mermaid scales.

A few years back a US Supreme court justice complained in a ruling that although wording for exact definitions eluded him, he "knew porn when he saw it."

If a new boat is taken in and fixed up better than a new one, bells and whistles should go off.

A few years ago, Doug Peckover bought five new Lasers after the worlds, sold four of them to friends and kept two for himself.
He put the "spare" out in his yard upside down with a cover. The Texas heat caused the boat to cure such that the reinforcements all showed and the hull sagged down around the centerboard trunk.
He brought the boat to me. I supported it by the gunwales, filled it with water, and put a black tarp over it. About a month later the boat had sagged back to its proper shape but the foam reinforcements still showed. In fact there was a 6 inch wide big lump running down each side of the hull. I sanded out the lumps and in the process I went through the gelcoat.
I sprayed a couple gallons of gelcoat on the boat and sanded that material to 320 grit and buffed it. I also did not sand out the print through from the mast step because for some reason, I thought that would be illegal.

Anyway, when I buffed the hull to a shine, the 320 scratches were just about right such that the finished surface left by overheating the gelcoat while buffing the scratches was about like a new boat.

I race against Doug and neither of us wants him to have a boat that does not go the same slow as mine...That would not be a race.

End anecdote.

My point? There is not one. I just wanted to tell you about the boat Fishing Mickey has and loans out now.

Also..if you have a realy old flexible boat and you put a perfect finish on it, I would not be the guy who would protest. I believe the flexible boat would still be slower than new and your better than new bottom would serve as an equalizer and therefore meet what I feel is the intent of the rule...to make all the baots the same slow....but that is a wierd fred opinion and others may not share my view ...especially the ILCA chief measurer who might be really nasty and toss you and your non-competitive slow but really pretty boat.

Answering your list?
Fine unless you make it better than new
Fine unless you make it better than new
Fine unless you make it better than new
Fine unless you make it better than new
If you hurt her and she does not show up at all the races in Corpus anymore I will be furious.
 
Good discussion, this has cleared things up for me somewhat. I've got an old hull (baby blue, 61912) which I prepped and painted with Interlux 1-part last winter. I didn't do a great job apparently as there's been some peeling but that's another story. I was just concerned that I could drive all the way to Gimli next summer and be turned away by a measurer.
 
I want e) Unobtainum-enhanced polymer modified with finely ground mermaid scales....... that's funny!!

The only point here that I don't agree on is.... why can't I put pretty custom paint job on a brand new boat?? It would be heavier and slower than new but, prettier. I see that the main point is making the boat lighter would be illegal.

Also... Automotive Clear will work just fine on a boat. Just want to make sure that you get a High Performance clear that's rock hard. This boat was painted with uros.
forceddownload.aspx
 
There's still the pesky question of what it means to make a boat "better" than new, since "better" and "faster" are not necessarily the same.

For example, through-bolting your fittings (replacing the original rivets on the spars with bolts and nuts, or replacing the screws that attach fittings to the deck with bolts and backing washers and nuts) does not make the boat faster, but it does make it better than the original. Is it legal? Some people say "yes", some say "no".
 
Chris123 said:
There's still the pesky question of what it means to make a boat "better" than new, since "better" and "faster" are not necessarily the same.

For example, through-bolting your fittings (replacing the original rivets on the spars with bolts and nuts, or replacing the screws that attach fittings to the deck with bolts and backing washers and nuts) does not make the boat faster, but it does make it better than the original. Is it legal? Some people say "yes", some say "no".

Please take this question to the Measurer's forum and see what answer you get. Perhaps Gouvernail, who is an official Measurer (I think) will be able to help
 
Chris123 said:
There's still the pesky question of what it means to make a boat "better" than new, since "better" and "faster" are not necessarily the same.

For example, through-bolting your fittings (replacing the original rivets on the spars with bolts and nuts, or replacing the screws that attach fittings to the deck with bolts and backing washers and nuts) does not make the boat faster, but it does make it better than the original. Is it legal? Some people say "yes", some say "no".

That's good!! Better is NOT Faster.... Ok by me!! Purity of this class can only be taken so far. If you want to reinforce your vang attchment at the boom so, it doesn't break in a bad jybe then, go for it.

DaveK
 
"1. You cannot paint on a magic substance which would ooze out and make the boat go faster.
This rule is based upon a worry that something like that might be developed someday. Currently, with the technoloqy we have, you would have to carry a few tons of our very best oozy goop in your hull at the beginning of the race so you could slowly release it as you sail around the course. It ain't happnion' with car paint and unless you have invented the magic goo, you don't need to worry about this rule."

For one thing, I have seen this stuff for myself. It exists, you don't need to carry around alot, and it does make performance faster. The technology was looked into a while ago, and samples were made, but once ISAF&US Sailing got wind of it, they immediately added that rule so that it couldn't be used.

"I entirely disagree with you on the idea that paint is slow. If you apply it with a brush perhaps, but even then it can be sanded to a smooth finish. As long as you do all the prep work in the right way and apply it with a spray gun the result could be fantastic. My concern would be that paint is often softer than gelcoat and easily scratches."

The clear-coat they apply isn't slow, but regular auto paint is. So are most other paints. It doesn't have to do with how you apply it, it's the size and composition of the paint flakes. most paint is designed to be easy to manage and look pretty, which means a bigger flake of paint. Gelcoat and clear coat have smaller flakes so that the actual surface will be smoother. It has to do with aerodynamics (well, hydrodynamics) and boundary layers, but it makes a difference in water because it is much more dense than air.
 
Ok Compuman..... I'll be nice and not act like I'm on Sailing Anarchy.

I'm a custom Harley painter. I know very little about the gelcoat process and would love to watch Fred do it sometime. But, I know lots about uros. I paint in whats called a 2 stage process. Base coat (color non activated) and then clear coat (activated). Clear bonds chemically with base coat. Sand, polish and then your done. My base coats are maybe .25 to .5 mils thick. Very very thin. There are paints with metallic flake in them but, they still spray to a very thin layer. Clear coat is 2 - 4 mils thick per coat. All paints, gelcoat or whatever when sprayed, will produce an orange peel surface. The better the painter, the less its there. The only time you can eleminate orange peel is when your paint is running on to the floor and now you have other problems. Not sure about what flakes are in clear or gelcoat for that matter. If were talking about molecular level size then, that's too small to worry about. Fred sprays in what I call a single stage process. His pigment, clear and activator are all spit out together. I say spit cause, its got to be too thick to spray. Fred's process is more durable. If that paint gets scratched, it still looks good. My scratch would only hold up as long as the base coat doesn't get touched. I believe also that, gelcoat is a much thicker process. Not sure about densities though.

Really doesn't matter whats its painted with. Its how its treated in the final process of painting. After I paint a bike and the last coat of clear goes on, I am so far from done its not funny. I sand every part out with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and then finally 3000 grit sandpaper. Then I cut each one with 2 different types of compound and then finally polish. This part alone takes 16 hours. By this point, its a mirror finish and it better be, if your gonna please a Harley biker

DaveK
 
DaveK said:
Ok Compuman..... I'll be nice and not act like I'm on Sailing Anarchy.

I'm a custom Harley painter. I know very little about the gelcoat process and would love to watch Fred do it sometime. But, I know lots about uros. I paint in whats called a 2 stage process. Base coat (color non activated) and then clear coat (activated). Clear bonds chemically with base coat. Sand, polish and then your done. My base coats are maybe .25 to .5 mils thick. Very very thin. There are paints with metallic flake in them but, they still spray to a very thin layer. Clear coat is 2 - 4 mils thick per coat. All paints, gelcoat or whatever when sprayed, will produce an orange peel surface. The better the painter, the less its there. The only time you can eleminate orange peel is when your paint is running on to the floor and now you have other problems. Not sure about what flakes are in clear or gelcoat for that matter. If were talking about molecular level size then, that's too small to worry about. Fred sprays in what I call a single stage process. His pigment, clear and activator are all spit out together. I say spit cause, its got to be too thick to spray. Fred's process is more durable. If that paint gets scratched, it still looks good. My scratch would only hold up as long as the base coat doesn't get touched. I believe also that, gelcoat is a much thicker process. Not sure about densities though.

Really doesn't matter whats its painted with. Its how its treated in the final process of painting. After I paint a bike and the last coat of clear goes on, I am so far from done its not funny. I sand every part out with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and then finally 3000 grit sandpaper. Then I cut each one with 2 different types of compound and then finally polish. This part alone takes 16 hours. By this point, its a mirror finish and it better be, if your gonna please a Harley biker

DaveK


You're perfectly correct.

However, i'm talking about the surface as in when you look at it with a microscope. again, it goes like this- glass (for example) looks shiny and feels smooth, but when we look at it under a microscope it's like sandpaper. I'm talking about the minute surface and how bumpy that is, not how shiny it looks. Normal paint is extremely rough at this level even though it feels smooth, whereas gelcoat has particles in it that allow very fine sanding to change the roughness at the microscopic level, not just the normal level that our nerves can feel. If you looked at auto paint and then gelcoat with a microsocpe, you would see a big difference.

George, what's the biggest regatta you've ever been in? just curious.
oh, and George, i obviously wasn't referring to myself. What do you take me for, a half-wit idiot?:eek:

I wrote that after reading a couple of posts that had no truth base whatsoever and weren't helpful at all, not to mention i was in a bad mood.
 
George here misses the point. In a hail of insults, i actually stood up for LF. Here's the whole post:
"Laserforum is full of half-wit idiots who haven't ever been to anything more than club regattas and don't know how to sail.

However, paige riley posts there regularly, and there is alot of good information about the laser.

If you're looking for technical stuff, go buy a book. Not many people are well-versed in the physics of sailing, especially the laser (I am.), and you'll get bullshit answers both there and here for the simple reason that people don't care how it works as long as it works. Welcome to america. We are the fattest country in the world, we have the most cars per family, and we spend the most time on the computer/tv in the world. If you want good answers, go to europe.


or.....

here it comes-

canada."

And here are some other posts:
"I have obviously been to that site and it is mostly filled with crap and people that do not know what they're talking about. I brought this to Sailing Anarchy because I feel this is a better place to have it. There seems to be more people here who actually know what they're talknig about and who take it seriosuly. they also seem to have excellent things to say."

"good thing i am Canadian then, Nova Scotian actually...and i am past the point of beliving the shit i hear on the laser forum. yes a few well known and skilled sailors may post on it, but i am not digging through all the bullshit."
 
computeroman2 said:
George, what's the biggest regatta you've ever been in? just curious.
oh, and George, i obviously wasn't referring to myself. What do you take me for, a half-wit idiot?:eek:

I wrote that after reading a couple of posts that had no truth base whatsoever and weren't helpful at all, not to mention i was in a bad mood.

Well, NOW I am in a bad mood, :mad: so I will call you a half-wit idiot?
Oh my mood just got so much better by just writing that down that I am not going to call you a half-wit idiot! I hope your mood improves as well! :)
So, the size of the regatta someone has sailed in is crucial to you? FYI: Any idiot with a Laser and some basic coordination can participate in the biggest regatta's. Since you asked it so nicely, I will answer it anyway: I have participated in some major events and plan to do a couple this year if time allows. Besides that, I do enjoy club-racing a lot, and I don't think there is anything wrong with that. If you think that a club-racer is a half-wit idiot, please disregard this entire message, and all my other messages.

In any case, anywhere on the internet, in books and in life in general you will need to make judgments about people's opinions. I am sometimes wrong, you are sometimes wrong, some people are wrong a lot, and even if your name is Ben Ainslie you are sometimes wrong.
Even while Ben Ainslie is not on this forum, I think the forum is a tremendous resourch for many. I am quite sure that not a single other one design class has a forum that is as active and informative as the laserforum.

Allright, enough! Let's talk about paint again.

GWF
 
Whos making the popcorn??

First of all, I believe that looking at a molecular level of anything, will loose in the bigger picture when considering boat speed. The density of gelcoat may in fact be less than auto uros. That means a larger chain, bigger molecules and a lighter product. Lets coat our bottoms with styerfoam....NOT. So, we can see that's not gonna work. Then try teflon or even a thin layer of lead. Is that a small enough flake for ya?

Ok... I got it. How big is your army vs. ours...lol
DaveK
 
computeroman2 It doesn't have to do with how you apply it said:
You may have been OK until you got to this part.

What a bunch of total malarky. Paint flakes? Flake size?

I am not going to launch into a detailed explanation about pigments and polymers and the composition of coatings....

But...

None of what you wrote in that paragraph has anything to do with reality.

It makes me wonder about the veracity of the rest of your post.

Other stuff:

If you want to paint pretty stuff all over your Laser, have a ball. Just do not make the surface more smooth and fair than the original boat.

I wil address the through bolt issue in the measurer's forum.

fred
 
Paints for Lasers:
Housepaint....really cheap. Hard to maintain. Comes off as powdery mess all over everything

Alkyd enamel; Pretty hard. fairly durable. fades in the sun. Hard to apply thick enough to avoid scratching through . Wood can scratch it

Linear polyurethane Urethane paints . Very thin coating will change the colotr of a laser and costs about $50 US minimum. Drawback? Unless you apply about $200 worth of the paint it is too thin to sand to perfection.

VC Performance Epoxy with Teflon: easy to apply, takes about $100 to cover a laser hull. Super scratch resistant. Does not do well in sun. ...becomes powdery on surface and fractures in bazillions of small cracks. can be sanded to perfection but Perfection may ,make the boat ineligible for racing

Gelcoat. has to be applied heavily to allow for full cure and to allow for sanding and fairing. CHEAP!!!! $200 buys a 5 gallon pail. laser resurface job after removoing entire old gelcoat. takes about 2 gallons. Can be used as a primer over porous surfaces. Can be applied with brush, roller, squeege, putty knife, or spray guns.
can be sanded out and polished JUST Like a new boat.

Speed through te water?? If you sand and polish the various paints to the same grit level???the speed through the water will be EXACTLY the same.

Full speed is the shiniest surface you can make that has watrer sheet over its surface rather than gather in little balls.

Yes..I do know what I am writing about....or not..

I only have 36 years of professional experience in the field and recently I am forgetting stuff at a pretty fast pace
 
gouvernail said:
Paints for Lasers:
...
VC Performance Epoxy with Teflon: easy to apply, takes about $100 to cover a laser hull. Super scratch resistant. Does not do well in sun. ...becomes powdery on surface and fractures in bazillions of small cracks. can be sanded to perfection but Perfection may ,make the boat ineligible for racing
...
Hi gouv,
just one small question to the worlds-master of the Laser-Paint. Do you mean paint like in the following link with "VC Performance Epoxy with Teflon"?

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa//prod...ion.asp?ComponentID=22029&SourcePageID=6660#1

I used that paint for centreboards and rudderblades. [Spraying that stuff, I learnt, is most toxic (Zyanid-gas comes in the air with the spray of the paint)]

LooserLu
 
Since I started my hobby/buisness One Design Retsoration where I restore Lasers, I have studied the class rules thoroughly and have asked many officals their opinions. What I have recieved is quite clear: If you have an older boat with defects that you would like to repair/restore then it is perfectly legal to repaint the hull. I think we can all agree on this.

As far as actually painting goes, I've done all my boats with AwlGrip. I tried Interlux Briteside once (a single part paint) and absolutely hated it. It chipped and scratched way too easily. Although the price tag was convienent, you'll spend much more time and money repainting it every season.

But buyer beware, spraying AwlGrip IS NOT USER FRIENDLY. AwlGrip is a heartless, souless beast that you first must be able to conquer. Once you're good at it though, there is no finish like it. If you do it right and spend lots of time on the prep work, you'll get a mirror like finish that won't fade after a few years like gelcoat. The first boat I did I ended up re-doing three times because I screwed up so badly the first two. My subsequent boats have all been great.

My advise would be to spend the time and the money and go for the rolling/tipping AwlGrip or a new product called Perfection made by Interlux. Probobly the ladder as it was made specifially for ametuers who want a good looking boat. As for me, I use a proffesional spray gun but that is only because I plan on doing many boats.

If I could offer one piece of advise to those who want to spruce up their boat it would be to TAKE YOUR TIME! With Awlgrip and the other two part polyurthanes any mistake you make will only be highlighted. It has been said many times before but it is very true that a good finish is 90% prep work.

Also, please please please do your homework. Know what to expect. Read all you can on websites and call/e-mail questions to the company.

If you have any questions about boat prep or AwlGrip, shoot me an e-mail at: onedesignrestoration (at) comcast (dot) net

I'd be glad and willing to help.
 
macwas16 said:
Since I started my hobby/buisness One Design Retsoration where I restore Lasers

[...]

I'd be glad and willing to help.

macwas16's words of advice and encouragement were spot on (and very much appreciated) when I was trying to put a reasonable bottom onto a beater laser last year; I ended up going the VC perf. epoxy (VC127) route because I didn't think it worth it to put a beautiful Awlgrip finish on a boat that was never going to be as stiff and light as a newer boat. Got an entirely acceptable (to me) finish -- could get a better one if I wanted to put in the time with sandpaper. I'm sure it'll chalk fast (matter o' fact it's sitting out without a cover right now -- anyone got a hull cover to sell?)

As to macwas16's business, I believe he (he? she? never met in person) started it at a very young age -- an impressive accomplishment.

Last bit of wisdom that has been passed to me by several people:

THESE ARE NOT HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. UNDERSTAND THE SAFETY ISSUES AND DO NOT SCRIMP ON PROTECTIVE GEAR.
 
gouvernail said:
Speed through te water?? If you sand and polish the various paints to the same grit level???the speed through the water will be EXACTLY the same.

YES! YES! YES! Very important to cut through the BS and realize that surface smoothness and fairness (which is really just smoothness integrated over a different distance) is all that matters.

governail said:
Full speed is the shiniest surface you can make that has watrer sheet over its surface rather than gather in little balls.

Beading vs sheeting turns out not to matter. Surface smoothness is the only thing that matters. The material or chemical composition of the surface doesn't matter.

With one asterisk: What counts is surface smoothness at the time you race, and not at the time you finish sanding. So surface composition matters indirectly:

Surfaces that are soft and easy to scratch will lose their smoothness

Surfaces to which little bits of junk floating in the water will stick, don't stay as smooth as surfaces to which little bits of junk have a hard time sticking.

Surfaces that are easier to wash clean stay smoother than those that don't.

And so forth.
 
My Hull Is Painted And Was When I Bought It .we Think When Refurbished In Europe By Laser Dealers.three Other Repairers Looked At The Hull To Quote For Repairs And Failed To Spot It Was Paint Not Gel Coat,so I Doubt A Layman Would Be Able To Spot A Proffesional Paint Job.
As For Club Sailors And Indeed Sailing Clubs They Are The Life Blood Of The Sport They Make New Classes And Mass Production Possible.they Recruit,train And Encourage Newcomers To Our Sport Especially Youngsters Without The 180,000 Also Rans In Our Class,the Boat Would Have Not Been The Success It Is Today.
This Forum Can Only Draw From That Pool Of Sailors Most Of Us Have Not The Time Money Or Ability To Sail At The Highest Level.
Bestwishes Sean
 

Back
Top