Opening the hull - worth the trouble?

FamilySimon

New Member
I was given a used Sunfish from my neighbor at the beach last summer. It is a “mid 1970s” Alcort hull that had sat on the ground (small pebbles) for 20 years. A friend patched the dings in the fiberglass, loaned me a rig with a good sail and I went sailing this summer in her.

The problem is she is over 100 pounds overweight. The hull was full of water when I rescued it, and sometimes she sails more like a U-Boat than a sail-boat. The hull takes in water in heavy weather. The bailer is shot, I need a new sail and a new jamb-cleat and halyard. I’m not buying anything until I decide if the hull is salvageable…I think the only solution is to remove the aluminum trim, cut the bailer off and separate the hull from the deck and clean out what is inside.

“Short-cut” that has been suggested is to just cut an access hole in front of the dagger-board trunk and clean out what I can reach, but I’d rather do it right if I’m going to do it at all. Lots of used hulls around, but I thought it would be nice for the planet and this boat (won lots of races once-upon-a-time) to save her. Ideas? Suggestions? Encouragement?
 
Do a thread search for cutting access holes and drying out the boat. This is not a "short-cut" but the proper method of getting started on repairs.
 
...Do not attempt splitting the hull.....It doesn't cost a dime to cut in the access holes. You know that you will probably need 2 for drying out. The foam blocks inside are not going to give up their moisture without a fight! Plan on what sizes and where you would like them (research this topic) Check on hole size first to match an inspection plate to be used (call suppliers and verify). Drying is probably the very first thing you need to do. Then, if you find that the hull is worth saving, you can buy the inspection ports, and then let the restoration begin.
 
I was given a used Sunfish from my neighbor at the beach last summer. It is a “mid 1970s” Alcort hull that had sat on the ground (small pebbles) for 20 years. The hull was full of water when I rescued it, and sometimes she sails more like a U-Boat than a sail-boat. The hull takes in water in heavy weather. The bailer is shot, I need a new sail and a new jamb-cleat and halyard. I’m not buying anything until I decide if the hull is salvageable…I think the only solution is to remove the aluminum trim, cut the bailer off and separate the hull from the deck and clean out what is inside

Very wise words of advice so far. . .

I'd like to add this, removing the trim and bailer does not let the hull separate. The two hull shell pieces were fused as one at the factory. The aluminum trim simply acts as a protector for the lip where the deck shell is fused to the hull shell.

In last resort restorations the deck is still not removed completely, rather the front and rear are lifted just enough to allow new styrofoam blocks to be fit.

All the recommendations given as well as the last resort block replacement are shown in the following guides found by clicking on the NEW Sunfish KB & FAQ tab that appears at the top of this and nearly every page here at the Forum
  • Construction
  • How to dry out a wet hull [PDF]
  • Inspection Ports [PDF]
  • Air Leak Test
  • Replacing Foam Blocks [PDF]
Look through all these guides and weigh out the time and effort against the knowledge you can (with patience) find a ready-to-sail Sunfish in functional shape for between $300 (with some luck) and $800 (more likely).
 
Thank you everybody! I've downloaded the .pdf on drying out the hull. I'll set the boat up in my unheated garage, cut holes for 2-ports and use the light-bulb method to provide a gentle heat source. Hopefully I can set it up this weekend and give her plenty of time to dry out. The Squirrels living in the eves of the garage are going to love this...
 
You'll be able to tell how well it's doing by the smell it creates in the garage. It will take all winter to completely dry the core of the foam blocks and the water that has worked it's way into the fiberglass.
 
I cut 2 holes for ports, 1 front, 1 back. Set up a 100 watt bulb under the front hole, measurable improvement by mid-January. I added a 12 volt computer fan under the rear hole wired to a 8 volt transformer (so it would run slow). I think my fish lost 100 lb over the winter! No evil smell in garage. I shall continue the treatment for a few more weeks then go about putting the nice ports in the holes I cut last fall.

Thanks for all the advice! This really works...dried fish
 
So far so good...

But you still need to find the leaks, if any. Otherwise you will have to dry your hull a second time after you start sailing :eek:.
 
Funny I just posted on my own thread something similar. My boat was also 100 lbs over weight. Try the black trash bag method now that it is sunny outside. I think you'll have faster and more efficient success for the last bit of moisture you are trying to remove. I lost a good 30 lbs in 5-6 days with our 80+ degree weather here in NC.
 
Smoking success!

Thank You Everyone for your help.

In late September ordered 2 "inspection ports" and hacked two holes in the hull (one forward of the mast, one in the back deck). I set up the fish in the garage on 2 sawhorses wtih a 100 watt bulb under the front port. Early January I replaced the burned-out bulb with a 60-watt flood and hung an old 12 volt computer fan under the rear port with coat-hanger wire; I wired it to a 8 volt DC transformer so it would run slow. In June I made the holes nice and round and fitted the deck ports.

The boat lost 120+ pounds over the winter. July 4th weekend my buddy who fixed the dings in the hull raced it to 3 2nd place finishes at the club in a very competitive "A" class; last weekend I finished 3rd - 2nd and 1st in 3-races in the "B" class. The old boat lives and beats the pants of the shiny new fish at the club.

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE EVERYONE!

KEEP THE SAIL SIDE UP AND THE DAGGER-BOARD SIDE DOWN!

Mike
 

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