I have the old vang on a swivel with the cleating block on the mast (the new vang is nice, but very expensive). I have a lot of difficulty uncleating the vang at the windward mark (or at any point for that matter). It seems I have to move all the to the front and fight for balance as I manhandle the line out of the V cleat. I am using a 6-1 system with the tag end tied to my daggerboard shock cord if that matters. Anyone have a technique that does not require moving my weight all the way up to the mast?
old vang uncleating techniques
- Thread starter MiLLz
- Start date
torrid
Just sailing
There is the obvious, facetious answer which I will refrain from giving.
When I still had the old rig, I had to turn the vang on the swivel to a the right angle before I could even try to uncleat it. I then had to pop it in one big movement. It was a little ritual I did on every upwind leg right below the mark.
You said you have the tail tied to the daggerboard. In what I described above, the tail of the vang line needs to be free. Otherwise you don't have enough line to play with.
Maybe try untying the tail from the daggerboard?
The old vang required timing. You need to release the vang at least partially before you actually reached the top mark (one or two boat lengths. Once around the top mark, it was then possible to fine tune the position, because it wasn't under as much load. Marking the vang line in some way definitely assisted.
laserxd
Member
With the old vang this is critical, even in calm conditions its really tough to get the vang uncleated downwind. Instead of marking the line I like to put a knot/handle at the max release point and just blow the line before rounding, you can readjust it after rounding for downwind if necessary. With the old vang, the sheet can really get wedged in there so try to get it out early incase its jammed up, try yanking up and closer to the mast if you can't get it released. If you can save up for the new vang it is worth the investment.
^^^ I'm very similar to this... I have a knot at "max loose" for the vang and let it go... I also switched positions of the vang blocks so the "cleat-block" is on the boom instead of the mast...
OK I will try untying the loop and partially uncleating 2 boat lengths early to the windward mark and something to pop off the vang to maxed eased.
Where is your max eased setting and does it change from medium to heavy wind?
The cleat at the boom didn't work for me as I was always worried about yanking the pin out of the slot. Maybe I will try it again.
I was thinking if I kept my aft foot under the strap I might be able to kick it out of the V with my foward foot. Is this a dumb idea?
Where is your max eased setting and does it change from medium to heavy wind?
The cleat at the boom didn't work for me as I was always worried about yanking the pin out of the slot. Maybe I will try it again.
I was thinking if I kept my aft foot under the strap I might be able to kick it out of the V with my foward foot. Is this a dumb idea?
Like Laserxd, my maximum setting is limited by a knot, but that is only a light weather setting. I carry more vang as the wind increase. When I partially release the vang, I'm tending to go towards one the stronger wind settings and do the fine tuning from there. But even if the vang only comes half way off, it does make readjusting it much easier once you're heading downwind and it also makes bearing off significantly easier.
While I do have the new set up, my mark rounding technique hasn't changed a great deal from when I had the old vang set up, even though it's less critical now.
While I do have the new set up, my mark rounding technique hasn't changed a great deal from when I had the old vang set up, even though it's less critical now.
jeffers
Active Member
With both old and new vang I always uncleat before the windward mark. You can generally get away with using the mainsheet to control the boat for those last 2 boat lengths in. Also try and pop the board as this will also help with the bear away (esp if it is windy), that and hike like hell to get a little windward heel on so you use less rudder.
Having said that the new vang is expensive but (in my opinion) is the 1 new control line that is essential if you are going to race, it is a worthwhile investment.
Having said that the new vang is expensive but (in my opinion) is the 1 new control line that is essential if you are going to race, it is a worthwhile investment.