Nuts, Bolts, Rivets & Boom Repairs

[Bungo Pete]

I have seen a few threads started regarding the above mentioned subject, and I thought I'd add a few pictures to help those who might be new to this type of repair.

Last summer, when I started sailing my 1979 Laser, I was so anxoius to get it in the water, I really didn't care what kind of shape the boom was in. This was no such a great idea as the vang key sleeve popped off during the first heavy air day. I also noticed that the eye strap rivets were pulling out. I managed to get through the season and in February started the rehab. This entailed through bolting the eyestraps, and putting on new blocks. When I was done, I also did similar repairs to a friend's boom.

I haven't finished uploading and resizing all of the pix, so I will put them up a few at a time. Enjoy.

This shot shows the rivet pulling out of the boom after many years of hard use.


The next shots show what it looks like after the rivets have been drilled out of the eyestrap and one of the endcaps. Note that you need a 3/16" twist drill (that would be 4.80mm for those of you who speak metric).

The next post will show how to get the endcaps off.

 

[Bungo Pete]

I have a couple of other pix to share. This first one shows the tool of choice when determining if the caps can be removed easily or must be destroyed in the process. A putty knife will wedge between the boom and the cap, and a few raps with a hammer will determine if it will move.

If it does move, then you can try using it at an angle to back the cap out. Remember to keep rotating the boom.

It seems most after endcaps (the one under the outhaul fairlead) will come off intact. It is also easier to drill out both fairlead rivets first. Note that you will need a special long rivet to re-attach the fairlead at the very end of the boom, and it is available at APS, The Boathouse or other Laser parts stores. Rather than use a rivet in the forward fairlead hole, I through-bolt it.

Here is a rare sight indeed. I was able to get the gooseneck endcap off intact! All the previous times I have done this I have had to drill a large (1") hole in the center to make the cap flexible in order to get it out.

It looks kind of bad in this pic, but I was able to clean it quite nicely, and coated it with LanoCoat. This will make it much easier to remove the next time.

 

[Chainsaw]

Bro, where's the block gone from the end of boom eyestrap?

 

[Bungo Pete]

RE: Boom Blocks

The booms I have been working on are pre-1990s and therefore had the old style blocks with the screwed-on cheeks. This allows you to remove them without touching the eyestrap. On my 1979 boom, I replaced the blocks with new ones (current design w/ riveted cheeks) when I through-bolted the eyestraps. If you are going to through-bolt, you might as well start with brand new blocks.

 

[ChalmersP]

If you want to get the end plugs out faster and with less effort, you can buy a heat gun, not a lighter, and heat it up to melt the epoxy that the makers put on there to seal the cap in place!

 

[Clive Humphris]

Another trick to get the end cap off is to insert a half inch dia steel rod at least say 12inches long thru the gooseneck hole and then use it effectively a slide hammer.

 

[Bungo Pete]

Thanks for the comments. I must admit, I have never seen any indication of any type of adheasive that was used to hold the caps in place. Usually ther is residue of what appears to be vasiline. I think the heat probably expands the aluminum faster than the plastic as well as make the cap more pliant.

Hey Clive, it is funny that you mentioned a slide hammer because a machinist friend of mine suggested doing the same thing. Any new caps I buy, I have him take off about .01" (.25 mm) from the OD and this makes them fit a little less tight and thus makes them easier to remove later. Lastly, C'mon, is there really such a place as Indented Head? Or is it only in your mind, ha ha!

 

[Clive Humphris]

Hi Bungo Pete, Its quiet an apt name for a Laser sailing club don't you think - at least it is for me - given the number of knocks on the head I get. Yes, and it does exist - its on Port Philip bay adjacent to Melbourne - type "Indented Head Australia" in to Google maps and you will see exactly where it is. Its a great place to sail - visitors always welcome!

 

[Bungo Pete]

Don't tempt me as I would love to go down under again -it has been a long time. I used to have a long distance romance with a woman from Sydney. We would always meet at the Bull & Bear on Bond Street.

 

[Bungo Pete]

Below find a few more boom repair pictures. However, I thought I'd add some information pertaining to rivets. The one I use most often is a 3/16" dia. all ALUMINUM rivet with a 3/16" to 1/4" grip range. This is good for attaching the gooseneck endcap and those Soft Lacing Eyestrap Kits you can buy from APS. I bought one to see what they were made of and it appears that they are pieces of braided nylon outer lining, so in the future I can make my own. However, they came with stainless steel rivets and this not only overkill, it is yet another source of galvanic corrosion. You can find the aluminum ones at any hardware store. In my experience, the only place you really want to use the stainless steel rivets in when attaching the vang plate. You will also find that you need a really good rivet gun to get them cinched up tight and not break your gun in the process. As mentioned before, a liberal coating of Lanocoat will help keep the corrosion at bay.

Let's start with the gooseneck endcap.

Ideally, you want to have the rivet between the reinforcing webs (between the two yellow lines).

To do this, put a small notch at the end of the cap so you can line it up with the hole in the boom (sorry this is out of focus). Again, because it is only holding the cap in, an all aluminum rivet will work fine. Lastly, coat the cap with Lanocoat, and this will help you remove it later if necessary.

As for the after endcap, you need to get a special length rivet from a Laser dealer. It is possible to order them from a specialty fastener supplier, but I have fround that you have to order a box of say 100. Therefore, for the number required, it is less expensive to get one or two from your Laser parts source.

Here is the rivet inserted in the outhaul fairlead and ready for the gun. However, it is a problem to get the nose of the gun right up to the flange. Note that the forward part of the fairlead is already through-bolted.

The trick to solving this problem is to use a stack of backing washers (they come with most rivet gun kits) or maybe regular washers, so the nose of the gun has something to transfer the force to the rivet flange. Caution - do not add too many as your gun may not be able to grip the mandrel properly.

The last picture I have deals with through-bolting the mid-boom block eyestrap. I forgot to take shots when I did my last boom so I mocked up one for you. There are other methods, most notably taping twine on the screw and threading it into the boom. This is the one I prefer, so try it if you like.

What is required is two yard sticks, some scotch tape, and some electrical tape. It also helps if you have a friend around to assist.

First you want to bond the two yardsticks together so they are long enough to reach the center of the boom and will not easily separate. Then attach the screw as shown. Be careful not to overlap the tape over the washer too much or the yardstick won't break away later. Add a liberal coating of Lanocoat to the washer, but try not to get too much on the threads. Also note that I use small fender washers and hammer them over a piece of pipe to give them the same shape as the inside of the boom. Once you are ready, place this arrangement on the OUTSIDE of the boom so the screw lines up with the hole. Now, look at the yardstick and note the graduation that aligns with the end of the boom. Then insert stick/screw to that same graduation, and the screw should be pretty close to the hole. Once you get it to stick out of the hole, get a nut on it or have your friend grip it as tightly as possible. Then give the yardstick a good yank and it will come loose from the screw. Repeat and you are ready to bolt on the eyestrap. DON'T FORGET THE BLOCK!!!