Newbie questions - please be kind

DFlather

New Member
Hey everyone. I just bought a Laser 2 on a kitty hawk trailer/dolly and I have three questions.

1.) Is there a reasonable and secure alternative to the clevis pins with the little circle wires at so many of the rigging connection points? They seem to really slow me down when rigging, and I just know I'll be dropping them into the sand and water. Wondering if there's any kind of reliable shackle, pin or other quick connecting option.

2.) In the cockpit there are two black plastic pieces mounted to the sides. at the forward ends there are small holes and slots. What are they for?

3.) When I transport on the trailer, do you separate the mast sections (disassembling the diamond wires too) or leave it all together as much as possible?

Thanks in advance!
 
1)
Sailboat Quick Pins - Standard Pull Ring | APS
Sailboat Quick Pins - Push Button with Collar | APS
Sailboat Quick Pins - Pull Ring with Push Button | APS

2)
The rails help you come back into the boat after you've capsized (or otherwise fallen overboard); the holes are for attaching an athwartships elastic rope to keep the hiking straps up.

3)
Depends on how short or long you want the package to be. If you have a fork at the front end of the trailer, it doesn't make much sense to take the mast apart. Don't do anything that requires taking the diamonds off.
 
1)
Sailboat Quick Pins - Standard Pull Ring | APS
Sailboat Quick Pins - Push Button with Collar | APS
Sailboat Quick Pins - Pull Ring with Push Button | APS

2)
The rails help you come back into the boat after you've capsized (or otherwise fallen overboard); the holes are for attaching an athwartships elastic rope to keep the hiking straps up.

3)
Depends on how short or long you want the package to be. If you have a fork at the front end of the trailer, it doesn't make much sense to take the mast apart. Don't do anything that requires taking the diamonds off.


Thank you LaLi. I heard the pushbutton pins are not safe because they are hollow and thus not as strong. Have you heard that? Do you use them?
 
I heard the pushbutton pins are not safe because they are hollow and thus not as strong. Have you heard that? Do you use them?
I don't use them myself! But I do keep a tiny bagful of extra rings always with me, just in case :D

I'm not totally sure, but I think that the quick pins with just a ring at the end (no trigger button) aren't hollow. But even the other types are often used on boats with larger rig loads than a Laser 2, so it shouldn't be a problem.
 
The quick pin with the ring is not hollow; however the button pins are. I have used button pins on both attachments on the vang with success (so far!).

I have tried the droop pin (Rooster I think) and have broken the droop part on a high wind tack. Made it back to the dock since the pin itself was intact, but had to be very careful. I now sail with extras. -- Ed
 
The quick pin with the ring is not hollow; however the button pins are. I have used button pins on both attachments on the vang with success (so far!).
.....
I have as well (though being a relative "light weight" I probably don't go out in the higher wind ranges. I have one of each type, one attaching the XD kicker to the mast and another attaching the Cunningham block to the kicker block.

And I'm no engineer but I thought the true strength of such things mainly provided by the outer parts of the material (as one side acts in compression, the opposite side in tension and the middle in "nothing" - e.g. hence when you have to drill a joist or rafter (in a house) to pass a cable or pipe through you go through the middle of the beam and don't really affect the strength hardly atall). I'm guessing (and a bit out of my depth with my amateur knowledge) and I'm sure the hollow button variants are not as strong but I'd always assume there was not as massive difference as some might think.

(But the above are my thoughts and I must emphasise I am NOT qualified in such matters)
 
And I'm no engineer but I thought the true strength of such things mainly provided by the outer parts of the material (as one side acts in compression, the opposite side in tension and the middle in "nothing" - e.g. hence when you have to drill a joist or rafter (in a house) to pass a cable or pipe through you go through the middle of the beam and don't really affect the strength hardly atall). I'm guessing (and a bit out of my depth with my amateur knowledge) and I'm sure the hollow button variants are not as strong but I'd always assume there was not as massive difference as some might think.
Adding to the interested amateur thinking. The above, is specially relevant when it comes to bending forces and as long as there is no or little deformation of the cross section, like with the mast.

In this case it's more shearing forces and a reasonably thin, tight fitting centerpin stabilizes the outer pin, reduces deformation and adds to the cross section, the maximum strength does not have to be so much compromised. When it's deformed it needs to be replaced.
 
If you select a standard pull ring, do something to avoid having either one of the control lines running alongside the mast to the deck getting caught in the ring. The first and only time I used a pull ring, I found my Cunningham line had worked its way into the center of the ring when I returned to the dock, and was perfectly positioned to pull the pin out of the tang. I use cotter rings and carry a baggie of extras - pins and rings!
 

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