Newbie needs HELP with mast step repair.

B

biobaysharon

New Member
Hi Everyone.
My name is Sharon . I am a newbie. I just bought a 77 Sunfish.
This is what I have done so far.

  • Leak tested hull. It only leaked from coaming attachments and at the seam between hull and deck at one corner at stern.
  • Removed trim and coaming.
  • Cut two holes for ports. One in stern and one behind coaming.
  • Put fan in stern inspection port to dry out boat but she only weighed out at about 125 when I got her.
  • Repaired attachment holes with epoxy . Repaired a couple of gouges.
  • Repaired seam with epoxy.
  • Did a little gelcoat over holes . Didn't match it so good but I tried . Ready for new rivets.
  • Water tested the mast step. No leaks after 45 minutes.
My concern lies with Mast step tube. I have included pictures looking into tube and from inside hull. Looks to me like it was repaired inside hull but I dont't know for sure. The sides of the inside of the tube has wear in gelcoat which I think I can patch with epoxy but at the bottom of step inside there is a ledge and it is cracked with pieces missing. I hope that it repairable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you Sharon

mast step.jpeg
mast step2.jpegMast step 3.jpeg
 
Doesn't look too bad, plus, the deck doesn't seem to be involved. The interior base of the mast step and daggerboard trunk always look "somewhat unfinished". :oops:

Since it's not a repair I've actually done, I'll refer you to the "Search" feature. Scroll to the very top of the page, and click on the magnifying glass. Type in your specific concern, and click on "This forum". The member's name can be left off—then click "search".
 
First, if the boat weighs 125 lbs, it’s most likely never leaked. And since the step holds water it doesn’t leak. So far, fantastic boat and head of 99% of used boats! Odds are you don’t need to do anything to the step. But per the search recommended , hopefully you will find a recent post (last 2-3 weeks) where Signal Charlie recommended using some sort of epoxy in the step to cover bare cloth like that.

But I’d say you are in great shape to go sailing now, and you can touch that up whenever.
 
Hi Sharon,

If your mast step holds water for 45 minutes and your hull weighs 125 lbs then I'd say that your hull is not water logged and you don't need to dry it out. My mast step looks pretty similar to yours and has the same gouges and exposed fiberglass. I don't think this is an issue but if you want to add epoxy, there are quite a few posts on how to do this.

Feel free to ask more questions. The group here is very friendly and generous with their help.

Please also post more pictures of your Sunfish.
 
We put thickened epoxy on a paint stir stick or a chip brush taped to a paint stick and fill in the areas where the polyester resin has chipped away from the fiberglass cloth. Smooth it down flush with the other polyester resin. That will help protect the cloth from future damage, provide extra strengthe and prevent leaks.
 
Just catching up with this thread, you DEFINITELY want to address that exposed glass cloth in the step, before it gets worse and you DO have a leak. Signal Charlie is spot on with the advice, you can also put the boat up on either rail and alter the angle (or position of the boat ends relative to the ground) so that gravity helps you in your repair efforts. Use padding for the rails, and whatever objects are most handy for propping the hull at different angles. You can also set the boat on its stern against a wall or fence with sufficient padding below (an old sleeping bag, for instance), just be sure to secure the boat with some line so it doesn't get knocked over by wind or whatever. You'll need a ladder too for that sort of work. At the very LEAST, put some filler over that exposed cloth, you don't want that cloth to remain unprotected the way it currently is. Good news is that your boat doesn't leak (yet), so now's the time to address the issue before it gets ANY worse. That mast step is one of the greatest stress locations aboard your boat, might as well make things right before you get out there on the water... whenever you have exposed cloth like that seen in your photos, that glass is much weaker than it could be with simple repairs, AYE? Always take care of your boat, that way she'll take care of you... it's a MARINE SAFETY issue. Enough said, I'm off to the fridge for another cold beer, lol... :rolleyes:
 
One caution about setting a boat on its stern is the possibility of bending the gudgeon.

For clarity that material inside the tube is not gelcoat, it is polyester resin and fiberglass cloth. The outer layer of resin has chipped away, not unusual, the repair will help protect the cloth weave from opening up and becoming a leak point down the road. There is also resin on the outer side of the tube that is maintaining the integrity of the tube. Shown below are a daggerboard trunk and mast tube.

Mast tube and daggerboard trunk.jpeg


For thickened epoxy we like THIXO in the cartridge dispensed from a 18:1 ratio high thrust caulk gun, Pettit Flexpoxy is also good. Those caulk cartridge tubes contain one part epoxy resin and one part hardener, and the tube can be capped and used again and again for several months to a year. A little goes a long way. For a small repair like that you might also use Marine Tex epoxy putty, or JB Weld epoxy, just make sure to smooth any epoxy down with the paint stick and avoid having to sand inside the tube after the epoxy hardens.
 
1) If you still have that mast step, I'd like a pic of the base—as viewed from the inside of the hull. :)

2) Can I use that wood blade say, a continuous hour, for cutting through fiberglass? Those blades are pretty tough! :cool: Maybe a four-inch carbide grinding wheel would last longer?
 
L&VW
Those bits are gone. And I used a metal blade on a jigsaw and recip saw, not sure how a wood blade would work. Changed jigsaw blade once.
 
A paint stick is a handy tool in this sort of mast step work. Placing the boat up on end is a rarity, the OP probably won't have to do that... with the new breed of thickened epoxies (as opposed to timing the resin pot, old school, lol), it shouldn't be necessary. Won't need 'em this time around, OP, but jigsaw & reciprocating saw are ideal for hull surgery, just gotta choose your blades wisely... I've been known to snap a blade or two in the past, almost invariably the wrong kind since that's all that was left, lol. As I've grown older, I've grown wiser, and I buy saw blades in large (quantity) packages, unless I'm looking for something really specific (demo blade, for example). Same goes for drill bits, those Chinese 'titanium' bits snap like toothpicks under a heavy hand... don't ask me how I know this, lol. :confused:

OP, another option is to carefully cut some cloth "patches" to help fill in those exposed areas... lighter weight cloth, maybe, and be sure to wet up the areas well with regular catalyzed resin before and after applying the patches. The patches wouldn't have to be cut exactly to shape, as long as they added some strength, particularly in those broad exposed areas... finish off the repair with thickened resin. Just my $.02, not absolutely necessary but it couldn't hurt... fortunately, the original work done in building this mast step seems pretty solid, and it'll be even better once you make the repairs. Just make sure you cover all that exposed cloth, otherwise it'll flex with age and saturation (fresh or salt water), which in turn will lead to cracks and subsequent leaks. Remember the old line:

"AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE... AND IT'S A HELLUVA LOT CHEAPER, LOL." ;)
 
I have been reading everyone's helpful advice carefully and my boat the Lily ll is coming along really well. I think!! :)This forum is great. I have been spending hours reading about many topics and it is such a great learning tool. I will post pictures of my boat in a couple days. I want to finish her up first. Thanks again, everyone.
 
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