I concur, a '50s model. From what I know, there does appear to be a couple of anomalies. Your description of the sail ... I surmise the one you have is synthetic, most likely Dacron polyester, an original for that period would be cotton. The mast & spars, those would have been wood ... Sitka Spruce.newbie-just found this woody, maybe 50ish, sail is like new, may not be original. no rot or damage. would like to narrow down age. and any suggestions on restoration.
On a nostalgic level, yes. There are a few around, more of the later, '60s style w/smaller splash guard, though.... do you know if these are rare?
I took a look at one of your other wood boats..., nice work. You're in a much better position than I to judge condition. My suggestions are based on general principle and influenced a little by what appears in your pictures to be several layers of paint..., which I always suspect covers patching and plugging.the hull seems dry and solid everywhere. i am very hesitant to disassemble such a tight hull.
. . . and the deck and bottom may not even be plywood. Alcort was offering an option to use "Harborite" boards. Harborite was a marine grade of a Masonite-like pressboard. The pictured project boat shows this material.. . . seems to me encapsulation will only work if you can be sure that EVERY edge is sealed, a tall order for plywood.
Now that's uniquely unorthodox. The instructions call for a screw-in plug (similar to the later starboard side drain) near the bow handle and another in the transom. They recommend opening both during storage for ventilaton.. . . there are what look like small drain plugs along the port rail for each hull compartment. none in the transom or cockpit.
Hard to say, but those drain/vents speak to home-built kit. Of the wood boats I've looked over I could never tell and the most meticulously assembled and finished boats owners always said they'd built themselves.. . . how do i tell if it is factory or kit? the edge of the cockpit looks more kit than factory. i assume a serial number will not be found.
That's been my experience.wayne what boat did you see? the main spar is tapered. i'll know more when i get all the old paint off. if the deck will come easily without damage i agree getting into the hull is a good idea. as always things are not what they seem on the outside. thanks bob
Contact Herb Baker ... firstname.lastname@example.org'd love to find an emblem like that.
Oh yeah, I remember that stuff, just not by the Weldwood brand.The Weld-Wood used was a powder that you mixed with water. Was also used for aircraft wood structures before the advent of epoxy.
I think that's only going to get half way there. I believe you also need to be able to probe for soft spots that may not be evident by simply looking.Only way to inspect it without taking it apart is to use a Bore-Scope in the drain plug holes.
Not always..., I've seen too many rudders and daggerboards encapsulated without being properly repaired and treated first. They just rot under the varnish or epoxy.If there was no fungus to start with and you coated the internal structure in epoxy wood rot could be prevented.
None..., the wood itself. Just like a wood rowboat or canoe.I'd also like to know what was used for internal flotation if anything.
Newbies may not know that the inserts are a part of the Sunfish structure: when they get loose, the hull will "oil-can". (Bend under force, slowing the boat and—with the Sunfish—make a dull "boing")."... Flotation inserts didn't come along until the fiberglass hull, cuz fiberglass don't float..."
Weld-Wood was a pretty awesome glue in its day. I'm sorry to hear that it deteriorates: I still have a can!The Weld-Wood used was a powder that you mixed with water. Was also used for aircraft wood structures before the advent of epoxy...The good thing about Weld-Wood is you should be able to pop joints loose..."
Unfortunately, "rare" does not necessarily mean "valuable". I've got two "collectible" Folbot folding kayaks from the early 60s, but I doubt anyone would drive up to see them for purchase."...do you know if these are rare...?"
Unusual finishing approach, resin paper. Alcort recommended all the countersunk nail head dimples be filled with putty, followed by a plywood specific primer so it would adhere to both the wood and synthetic elements at the edges, and a finish of quality enamel paint.the deck was covered with resin paper however much of it has peeled off with the help of a heatgun scrapper. that will leave a nice varnished deck.
They are ring-shank nails so some splintering would be expected.the hull is very tightly assembled. i am hoping prying it up will not destroy anything.
I don't think Weld-Wood deteriorates, it just can't match the Iron Grip of epoxy. I crashed a plane that had hundreds of epoxy joints (Geodesic construction). Not one glue joint broke, all the wood around the glue joints broke. Luckily I did not break ether, I just looked like "Scar Face" for a couple months. Anyway, Weld-Wood is still F.A.A. approved for aircraft.Weld-Wood was a pretty awesome glue in its day. I'm sorry to hear that it deteriorates: I still have a can!
It is in remarkably good condition and looks like a "northern" boat fer shure."...the hull is extremely solid, almost no dents or scratches in the wood...i am now very hesitant to try to open it up. i do not see any indication of rot or weakness anywhere..."
That resin paper appears to have been a blessing in disguise. What great grain patterns..., lousy for a solid, but a great plywood veneer..., but no matter in the foot well. That does lend itself to some finish possibilities. The glass-like finish seen on vintage Chris-craft, strip kayaks, and cedar canoes is the first thing that comes to my mind. Might be worth a look into WEST system or MAS transparent epoxy.some new pictures ... the hull is extremely solid, almost no dents or scratches in the wood. the deck to hull seam is very well fastened and i am now very hesitant to try to open it up. i do not see any indication of rot or weakness anywhere.
...and a mystery: what this symbol might be?