New to Me Sunfish, Plan of Attack?

Alex Strohm

New Member
Hello all,

I just purchased the 1981 Sunfish you see below, with rigging and the trailer, for 300 dollars. She is my first sailboat. I have some sailing experience from when I was younger (I am 25 now) but purchased this to get back into it.

Sunfish-2.jpg

The hull has no apparent soft spots, weight is around 135. The boom has a slight bend in it, probably from an impact, but it is not kinked (not shown). The sail is in fair shape, but should last for the season (not shown). The lines seem to just be hardware store white nylon cording, and may need to be replaced soon. The daggerboard and rudder/tiller are in ok shape, but will need to be refinished.

Sunfish-19.jpgSunfish-2-2.jpg

On to the hull, there is a fair amount of spidering, with some deeper cracks along the chine, some near the rear of the cockpit, and gouges at the base of the storage area and along the edge of the cockpit.

Sunfish-7.jpgSunfish-8.jpg

There is also what appears to be an impact on the starboard side, which has dented the alum rail and caused the chipped gelcoat.

Sunfish-3.jpg

In addition, some of the cracks on the chine appear to have been sloppily repaired, and I tried to show that in the picture.

Sunfish-5.jpg

There is also a series of circular spider cracks along the middle of the hull, but from what I have read, that is common among boats of this age.

Sunfish-13.jpg

Also, the handle at the bow appears to be misaligned, and has some pitting.

Sunfish-4.jpg

The trailer seems to be in fair shape. It does not appear to have springs however.

I have taken her out several times, and she appears to be in fine form, aside from the dagger board vibrating when I start going fast.

Since the boat is not overweight by much, I don't think there are any immediate leaks.

So, I am looking for input on the course of action for repairs/upgrades/etc.

Should I install inspection ports? I figure I would put one between the slashguard and board trunk, but want to make sure I can access the area that was hit on the starboard side if needed.

I am figuring I will have to take off the alum rail on the starboard side and check the damage, fixing any leaks and repairing the fiberglass there. What is the best way to go about doing this?

Is it worth attempting to repair the gelcoat and try to get back to original? Or is it safer/smarter to just go with repainting the boat? If that is the case, should I just sand down the boat/spidered areas, and fill the gouges with tex before painting? I was looking at Interlux Brightside for both top and bottom, with an accent line or two.

All the deck hardware is firmly connected, so I don't think anything needs to be replaced.

What about the trailer? Is it worth sprucing up, or should I just try to pick up a used jetski trailer on craigslist?

With the rudder and dagger board, do they seem to be the correct dimensions? I don't want to use any putty to reshape them if possible, because I like the look of the natural wood. I can search the forums for a how to on refinishing them.

Anything else I am missing?

Thanks in advance for any advice, I am getting excited anticipating how great she is going to look this summer.

Alex
 
First of all, NICE GET! :D The trailer alone is worth more than 300 if it's in good shape.
You're doing exactly what I did a few years ago, getting back into it as an adult (I'm the same age) It's an affordable hobby that you can hook up and take anywhere!!!

Be sure to check out the Knowledge Base here at the site, tons of info there. http://sailingforums.com/pages/Sunfish_KB/

What about the trailer? Is it worth sprucing up, or should I just try to pick up a used jetski trailer on craigslist?
You should probably repack the bearings in the trailer unless you know the other guy was doing it. If it works, why not keep it?

The lines seem to just be hardware store white nylon cording, and may need to be replaced soon.
Take a look at the rigging guide in the KB for specs on line diameters.

Should I install inspection ports?
Inspection ports give you lots of options, but it's a shame to cut up a boat that doesn't leak... Some guys install them in the cockpit, which hides them well. If you install them on the deck, don't do it dead center; the "hump" of the deck makes it impossible to install properly.

I am figuring I will have to take off the alum rail on the starboard side and check the damage, fixing any leaks and repairing the fiberglass there.
Drill out the rivets and it'll pop right off. Fiberglass sucks to work with IMO. Try to keep it thin and use as little as possible; sanding it later is tough if you use too much. There's good vids on youtube. For small repairs you can also use the expensive but effective marine-tex epoxy.

Also, the handle at the bow appears to be misaligned, and has some pitting.
Mine is the same way, misaligned! No biggie I guess, maybe even by design! These usually require ports to be replaced, so maybe it can just be sanded and painted?

Is it worth attempting to repair the gelcoat and try to get back to original? Or is it safer/smarter to just go with repainting the boat? If that is the case, should I just sand down the boat/spidered areas, and fill the gouges with tex before painting? I was looking at Interlux Brightside for both top and bottom, with an accent line or two.
Check out the Knowledge Base, endless info and opinions on these topics!

With the rudder and dagger board, do they seem to be the correct dimensions?
They look fine although it appears that you're missing the tiller extension for your rudder?

Anything else I am missing?
If your boat doesn't have a hiking strap, I recommend installing one... It's a fun project and a great upgrade that requires inspection ports... I have pics and there are many more floating around the site.

Keep us posted on your progress and happy sailing!!
-Pete
 
Thanks for the input captainpete!

I was concerned with the trailer because it seems it won't provide the cushion to keep the hull of the boat safe.

Alex
 
if the trailer really has zero suspension maybe pad the contact points where it touches the boat? realistically though, the boat will just bounce around with the trailer because it's so light. Strap it down securely and all will be well. Just watch how it tows and use your judgement. you'll know really quick if its too sketchy to have on the road.
 
Should I install inspection ports? I figure I would put one between the slashguard and board trunk, but want to make sure I can access the area that was hit on the starboard side if needed.

The recommended spots for inspection ports are where you planed to put one, i.e. on centerline just forward of the daggerboard trunk (Google bottle port as it will hold a water bottle as well as give you access). If you install outboard of trunk you will hit foam. Other areas for drying out a Sunfish would be aft of bow handle and just forward of transom (4" ports).

I am figuring I will have to take off the alum rail on the starboard side and check the damage, fixing any leaks and repairing the fiberglass there. What is the best way to go about doing this?

Avoid removing the aluminum in my opinion if you have no leaks.

Is it worth attempting to repair the gelcoat and try to get back to original? Or is it safer/smarter to just go with repainting the boat? If that is the case, should I just sand down the boat/spidered areas, and fill the gouges with tex before painting? I was looking at Interlux Brightside for both top and bottom, with an accent line or two.

Certainly a new clean hull is great. I have had a Laser hull regelcoated for $375 due to many spider cracks. Came out like a new boat. Painting is cheaper. Better paints will create a nicer finish so it will depend what you want to invest.

With the rudder and dagger board, do they seem to be the correct dimensions? I don't want to use any putty to reshape them if possible, because I like the look of the natural wood. I can search the forums for a how to on refinishing them.

Best way to refinish would be to sand all the wood to bare wood. Then refinish with spar varnish. I like Cabots sold at Lowe's.
 
Thanks for the response. Do you think I need to do any fiberglass repair/replacement on the boat? I was looking at the section that the previous owner patched up, and was wondering if I would need to cut that area out and relay the fiberglass. You can see the picture in my initial post.

I am also wondering, and I have done some forum searching, so if I missed a perfect forum post please feel free to call me dumb and post a link, but how exactly do I go about getting the boat in a position to sand and paint it?

This is what I am thinking:

1. Dewax the boat. (Rub down with acetone.)
2. Remove all deck hardware. Splashguard will stay in place since it is riveted.
3. Remove aluminum rail to repair crack on starboard side.
4. Patch crack on starboard side using Marine-Tex.
5. Begin sanding down the boat. Question: Should I use an orbital sander for this, or just use a 6" or 12" sanding block? What grit?
6. Find any gouges, scratches, etc, and fill using West Systems 410/407. Question: Will this fill the gouges well, or should I use something like Marine-Tex for the big gouges?
7. Fair the entire hull.
8. Use Interlux Pre-Kote to prime the boat.
9. Use Interlux Brightside to paint the boat, using roll and tip.
10. High grit finish sanding, polishing. Question: Is this required or recommended for paint? Or what should I use to get the gloss finish?
11. Replacement of deck hardware.

Also, wherever it fits, I am going to cut the inspection port in the cockpit and install a hiking strap.

Am I on the right path?
 
I'm pretty sure you want to leave the deck hardware screwed down. The screw holes are likely to strip and be a pain.

I've never pulled mine off, but that's what I've gathered from reading here.
 
Your boat looks in very good condition for a 1981. I would air test the hull, does it leak? If not enjoy it as is. The only spot that might be of concern is the spot on the chine where it would be in the water and Marine-Tex would fix that in a day. I have a 76 boat with the same issue and it is a dry boat so I don't worry about fixing it. As these boat age the get spider cracks, nothing to worry about. I'm not a fan of painting a hull unless it is real bad and your isn't.

Those older boats with the strong cockpit lip were great for hiking in a good breeze. I did install a hiking strap on mine as I race.

Get out on the water.
 
First do a leak test. Then turn the trailer into something that will not damage your Fish, add springs and full supporting bunks of some kind. Then go sailing. Great buy, enjoy.
 
I think you are over thinking this. I have the same year, same colors and it looks way worse. I'm gonna marine-tex the bad stuff, leak test it, and get out on the water before it get's to cold.
I was originally thinking of over hauling the whole boat, but by that time it would be November and theres no ice sailing teams local :( It can wait till cold time1!
 
I was looking at the section that the previous owner patched up, and was wondering if I would need to cut that area out and relay the fiberglass.

This is what I am thinking:

1. Dewax the boat. (Rub down with acetone.)
2. Remove all deck hardware. Splashguard will stay in place since it is riveted.
3. Remove aluminum rail to repair crack on starboard side.
4. Patch crack on starboard side using Marine-Tex.
5. Begin sanding down the boat. Question: Should I use an orbital sander for this, or just use a 6" or 12" sanding block? What grit?
6. Find any gouges, scratches, etc, and fill using West Systems 410/407. Question: Will this fill the gouges well, or should I use something like Marine-Tex for the big gouges?
7. Fair the entire hull.
8. Use Interlux Pre-Kote to prime the boat.
9. Use Interlux Brightside to paint the boat, using roll and tip.
10. High grit finish sanding, polishing. Question: Is this required or recommended for paint? Or what should I use to get the gloss finish?
11. Replacement of deck hardware.

Also, wherever it fits, I am going to cut the inspection port in the cockpit and install a hiking strap.

Am I on the right path?
Agree that the only thing really missing from your boat was the tiller extension.
Curious as to what you ended up doing.

I just bought an '82 AMF with a split rudder.
The hull condition is very similar to yours with some small cracks and gouges.

I'm not nearly as ambitious and plan only the minor repairs to keep her dry.
I got a new rudder blade but hope to keep the old one as a spare. I've not yet figured out how to strengthen the repair with dowels as some have described.
I also bought a deck plate with cat bag but will probably hold off until I absolutely need to get into the hull for other repairs.

Thanks for sharing your project and to all for their experiences on this site.
 
I just bought an '82 AMF with a split rudder.I got a new rudder blade but hope to keep the old one as a spare. I've not yet figured out how to strengthen the repair with dowels as some have described.

I think the repair depends on how wide—and where—the split is.

After a drop of glue, I plan to run one or two SS screws in through the rear of the blade. The screws are 3" long and quite skinny—with a "small-square" drive. Those should be adequate (for my circumstance).
 
Hey blue skies,

As of now, I leak tested the boat and it was solid so I just sailed it for the summer, I actually took it out this last weekend here in Cincinnati with the weather hitting the 80s. I still have plans to do everything I mentioned above, but am going to hold off until I put the boat in the storage unit and can get it properly setup to work on.

I did buy a new tiller extension online from intensity.

I will be sure to update again this winter when the repairs commence.

I have no experience with split rudders, but LaVW has a good suggestion, the only thing I can think of without searching the forum re the dowels would be to clamp the rudder and drill out holes through the rudder perpendicular to the split and longways across the rudder, then filling the hole with a dowel, gluing it and sanding down the end of the dowel. I hope that makes sense. Again, just my first thought on the matter.
 
I have used in the past threaded rod instead of a dowel. The threads give more epoxy bonding area in my opinion.
The split is about 3-4" back from the fore edge of the rudder blade.

Did you pre drill all the way from the fore edge to aft of the rudder transversely?
How many rods did you use?

What was your epoxy choice?
 
Hey blue skies,

As of now, I leak tested the boat and it was solid so I just sailed it for the summer, I actually took it out this last weekend here in Cincinnati with the weather hitting the 80s. I still have plans to do everything I mentioned above, but am going to hold off until I put the boat in the storage unit and can get it properly setup to work on.

I did buy a new tiller extension online from intensity.

I will be sure to update again this winter when the repairs commence.
Did you make any of the minor chip repairs with marine tex?

Intensity is a great source for reasonably priced parts with fast shipping.
It gets you back into the water quickly although sometimes not class "legal" for racing.

Again, thanks for sharing your progress.
 

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