New to Board..74? Sunfish full restore

Thread starter #1
I am Neal...I live in SW Florida..on the water..here is my story

neighbor gave this sunfish last week, I don't sail ( im 49) want to learn and this seems to be the lil vessel to do that with...not in horrible shape it has a newer sail and rudder/dagger boards are rough but should be able to restore them in decent shape...

I have added a few hull pictures, I am starting there..

My back ground
I am marine manufactures rep have been for 20+ years..( own the company)
we rep lines like Beckson Marine, Meguiars, Shakespeare and Buck Algonquin
also Kardol for you glass/acetone guys, plus several other great companies as well

I plan on starting on bottom of the hull, it will need some keel repair with new glass, but the cracks are not severe and should easily be sanded primed and painted..

I have not got that far as paint, since I am in the industry awgrip is and option and other hi end urethane's or brightside from Interlux ( great easy product)...

I do need tips on going back original as possible for 74...? I will post the transom numbers for you guys to decipher..

Thanks looking fwd to the adventure...not sure pics did not load I use Photo bucket? Help there too? Sorry
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Thread starter #2
I am Neal...I live in SW Florida..on the water..here is my story

neighbor gave this sunfish last week, I don't sail ( im 49) want to learn and this seems to be the lil vessel to do that with...not in horrible shape it has a newer sail and rudder/dagger boards are rough but should be able to restore them in decent shape...

I have added a few hull pictures, I am starting there..

My back ground
I am marine manufactures rep have been for 20+ years..( own the company)
we rep lines like Beckson Marine, Meguiars, Shakespeare and Buck Algonquin
also Kardol for you glass/acetone guys, plus several other great companies as well

I plan on starting on bottom of the hull, it will need some keel repair with new glass, but the cracks are not severe and should easily be sanded primed and painted..

I have not got that far as paint, since I am in the industry awgrip is and option and other hi end urethane's or brightside from Interlux ( great easy product)...

I do need tips on going back original as possible for 74...? I will post the transom numbers for you guys to decipher..

Thanks looking fwd to the adventure...not sure pics did not load I use Photo bucket? Help there too? Sorry
 

danpal

Active Member
#5
It would be interesting to see pictures of the rest of the boat. I've never seen a fitting on the hull like that before on a Sunfish. Is that the bailer?
 
Thread starter #6
Yes that is a anderson bailer...a bailer that works and can be rebuilt..I was surprised to find one on the full.

I will take complete pics as the project unfolds...the bottom is a priority at this point,,,should be done with it is a couple of days..
 
Thread starter #8
well...as usual the more you sand and inspect the more you find wrong....the spider cracks are down to the glass and the glass is stressed, so I have to repair around 8-10 areas on the Port hull with glass and gel coat...

I also found the port side by the dagger-board and going fwd to be very flimsy compared to the STBD side of the hull?/ has the hull pulled away from a stringer? I am trying not to do inspection plates except in the cockpit for dry storage...but I do have concerns regarding that area...any input would be great..

I will post up more pics this week as I start to do glass repair,,,while grinding the hull I see about three different colors so, the boat has been painted before

I also will be using GP resin and not epoxy..I love epoxy but if future repairs need to be done I prefer staying with GP resin....if I need to repair the hull where it seems to be flimsy West systems gets the nod

I am using a product from US Chemical called spray max..its a 2 part spray epoxy primer..wow do I like this product...it sprays from a can like a pro paint gun,,layers up nice and sanded smooth its 2 part ( mixes from the bottom) ...again I will share some pics this week....

Thanks...
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#9
HIN indicates it is a 1974, built by AMF

Your soft spot may be where foam block has shrunk and/or pulled away. No stringers. Look in knowledge files for PDF
for foam replacement, it has diagram on where foam blocks are. If foam has dried up be aware that you may have lost some but not all of your flotation and hull stiffening. The boat will sail okay without it, you might hear some oil canning noise when you smack a wave.
 
Thread starter #11
I noticed you're using a "straight-line" sander—the perfect sander for the hull's bottom—wish I'd used my own, back when I was doing my Sunfish(es). :confused:

APS on Anderson bailers:
http://www.apsltd.com/c-6562-bailers-thru-hull-and-manual.aspx
Yes I rep Hutchins tools..with some 80 grit paper its removing all the old paint so I can see all the real problems..LOL

with a da you get to many peeks and valleys we call them divots in the boat building circle..with a larger inline you eliminate some of that...

Thanks..plan on fixing all the hull issues tonight with resin & and strand mat...fill in with filler and resin sand then fair it out with some duraglass filler and expoxy prime..
 
#12
I am Neal...I live in SW Florida..on the water..here is my story

neighbor gave this sunfish last week, I don't sail ( im 49) want to learn and this seems to be the lil vessel to do that with...not in horrible shape it has a newer sail and rudder/dagger boards are rough but should be able to restore them in decent shape...

I have added a few hull pictures, I am starting there..

My back ground
I am marine manufactures rep have been for 20+ years..( own the company)
we rep lines like Beckson Marine, Meguiars, Shakespeare and Buck Algonquin
also Kardol for you glass/acetone guys, plus several other great companies as well

I plan on starting on bottom of the hull, it will need some keel repair with new glass, but the cracks are not severe and should easily be sanded primed and painted..

I have not got that far as paint, since I am in the industry awgrip is and option and other hi end urethane's or brightside from Interlux ( great easy product)...

I do need tips on going back original as possible for 74...? I will post the transom numbers for you guys to decipher..

Thanks looking fwd to the adventure...not sure pics did not load I use Photo bucket? Help there too? Sorry
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I love this story! You are going to have a blast with your baby. There is a great deal of useful info regarding restoration on this site.
 
Thread starter #13
well I had a neighbor show up today and tell me that my sunfish is a super sunfish..it has clam cleats along the coaming and two on the deck that said was from the super sunfish's unique sail design..now what do!!! he said i have normal boom/spars and sail ( one spar has been cut short)....
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
#14
Just continue with your restoration; the Super had a different rig (Marconi) and was supposed to be competitive with the Laser, which, at the time, was rapidly gaining in popularity. However, the Super Sunfish didn't become a commercial success and was discontinued.
The cleats are class legal on a regular Sunfish anyway.

In conclusion: no worries, mate
 
Thread starter #17
Just continue with your restoration; the Super had a different rig (Marconi) and was supposed to be competitive with the Laser, which, at the time, was rapidly gaining in popularity. However, the Super Sunfish didn't become a commercial success and was discontinued.
The cleats are class legal on a regular Sunfish anyway.

In conclusion: no worries, mate
Thank you..I agree.
At this point, the hull is just a hull needed some TLC...I plan on getting the bottom repaired and primer-ed this weekend....then flip and start on the deck.

should I patch all the holes where the clam cleats were on the decks or just put back to original? I dont even begin to know where to look for the spars & rigging associated with the super sunfish...
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
#20
should I patch all the holes where the clam cleats were on the decks or just put back to original?
That's really up to you. You can use the cleats to 'secure' the main sheet, but racers don't like to do that. Moreover, a sudden gust may lead to a capsize if you are a little slow releasing the sheet from the cleat.
 
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