New member looking for advice

Mjallen37

New Member
Hi everyone, Mike here. I recently purchased a used Sunfish, and while most items seem to be in good order, the hull was very waterlogged. I am in the process of adding 2 inspection ports and a PC blower fan, and it is slowly drying. While I had the stern vent hole cut open I stuck my phone down there and saw what looked to be strips of material in the back corner. Can anyone tell me what that is, and if it needs attention?
Also, I am planning to finish sealing the inspection port flanges to the hull tomorrow, and I am struggling with finding a technique to get the nylock nuts on to the bolt ends without dropping them in the process. I wanted to test the attach before I started applying sealant, and I dropped 2 already. I’m concerned the sealant will thicken and dry up before I can get all 6 nuts on. . I was thinking of putting something sticky on my fingertip to hold the nut slightly while I lower my hand into the port and feel around for the bolt. Anyone have a method that works for them to share?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Crying for help, my latest Sunfish acquisition was a Hurricane Irma victim, where both transom "corners" got worn through. Inside each corner appeared to have a "backup" corner. :oops:

On that Nylock, try a long socket. :cool:

Depending on the sealant, you could index the port with the bolts (only) and use clamps between each bolt to pull it tight while curing; then, add nuts at leisure.

Otherwise, to hold the nut, tap the nut through a short strip of masking tape--sticky-side towards the nut. A 10mm socket might hold the 3/8" nut (+ tape) better.

Been there...Good luck!
 
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Congrats on your new ride! Looks like a repair to me, the white closed cell XPS blocks usually don't go back that far. No worries as long as you do an air leak test.

We get the nylocks started with finger tips then switch over to a deep socket to hold them while they are tightened. We find that machine screws around 1 3/4 inch offer the best depth to get the nut started, too short and it's hard to reach all the way in, and too long and it takes a long time to tighten. Waaaay too long and even a deep socket will not work. Don't tighten the stern plate outer ring too much, it will have too much camber and the cap will not screw in. A 5 inch plate works best for the stern, if you cut for a 6 inch a little extra sealant will be needed to seal/fair the gaps on the port and starboard sides of the plate. Have extra nylocks and washers handy :)

Wave rudder gudgeon backer.jpg


One other thing to note, the gudgeon should have an aluminum backer plate inside the hull. It appears you have a pre 1972 boat that someone has converted over the rudder to the new style. There is a special gudgeon backer plate with the hump in it to place inside the hull.

gudgeon backing plate.jpg


Do you have some more photos of the boat?
 

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