minifish tiller and inspection port

Cerick

New Member
Hi - I am new to the forum. Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
I have a couple of questions about a minifish I have recently acquired. First, I want to put a different tiller extension on it. It currently has a wooden extension that only rotates in the plane of the tiller. Also, the tiller seems a bit long to me. I am wondering if this rudder/tiller combo is from a sunfish, as I know the rudders are the same. The tiller length from the point of rotation on the rudder to the end is 47.25 inches. Is this correct for a minifish? Then - what extension do you recommend?
Next, although maybe I should make a different post, regards an inspection port. I want to install one so I can install a block for the mainsheet, as currently the boat only has the old hook in the cockpit. My question is, what is the best location for a port on the minifish? I have found a few posts where people place them on the deck, but I am wondering about placing in in the cockpit. Finally, what is your preferred tool for creating the inspection port? I see some use jig saws, some prefer a rotary saw. I am wondering if any of you have just used a hole saw? My plan is to put a really small port in (4") so I could use a hole saw. It also seems like since the deck is so small there isn't a totally flat place. Advice? Thanks.
 
Good idea on installing a small port on a curved surface.

Depending on which brand of port you've got, you'll likely have an "instructional" template that won't be exactly the right size for any hole saw. :confused: ( Excepting a simple--and cheap--adjustable hole saw, with a single blade--chucked into a drill).

After you've drilled the holes, use a larger drill bit to "chamfer" down through the Sunfish's thin gelcoat layer: that'll stop the tiny cracks from forming that usually radiate-out from drilled holes. :oops:

Use the shortest screws possible for this purpose, as you don't want to discover them later with your forearm! :(Better yet, short nuts and bolts would reduce the chances for "spider-cracks" to form.
 
I did these exact same upgrades on our Minifish a few years ago.
see my blog post about it here: upgrades for a Minifish

for your questions:
1. Yes, get a tiller extension with a rubber universal joint. I've had good luck with 33" Ronstan battlesticks, but I'm a rec sailor (racers might use longer?). Intensity Sails sells a couple different length options.
1686102655730.png

2. You can cut the tiller down to whatever length works for where you will sit. I'd probably wait to cut it until you have the tiller extension bought and you can test it out.

3. I put the inspection port on the deck. I use 5" ports. I prefer to make the cut with a Roto-zip tool (I hate jig-saws) and you're not likely to get a hole saw size in the exact diameter needed (unless you have the adjustable type LVW mentioned above).

1686102645352.png

4. here are the part numbers I use for the mainsheet block (and a cleat if you want). I personally would upgrade to the Harken 2135 block.
1686102700318.png
 
Thanks for the replies. LVW - thanks for the specific instructions on making the hole.
Tag - I had seen your post and really appreciated it. Do you see any issues with installing the inspection port in the cockpit? I bought a very small (4") one with a bag and was thinking I might like that. Not exactly sure why I am favoring that over the deck, but that is what I am thinking. Wondering in particular about the location of the foam blocks. I read your post and can see where you put yours, and how you dealt with the foam there.
 
If you think the forward wall of the cockpit is flat enough for the 4" port, I say go for it. The downside to a port that small is that it is harder to reach your hand/arm into the hull to grab things (or put washers/nuts on the end of screws).
 
Any exposed edges need to be initially covered with masking tape. "Raw" fiberglass contains long-lasting irritants to the skin.

I have no experience with MiniFish, but if there's room on the cockpit's forward bulkhead, position the new port so this small port favors one's elbow. (The bulkhead doesn't have to endure the abuse that the deck will). One caution is that overnight rains can flood the cockpit and leak into the interior if mounted too low. :(

"Female arms" can be rectified by regular trips to the gym.

Oh, wait...never mind. :oops:
 
I installed a port with a bag in the front wall of my Sunfish and I'm really happy with it. The only issue you might have is trying to screw the nuts onto the bolts since you won't have very much room with a 4" port as Tag said.
 
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Ports come in two materials. Polyethylene and ABS. Polyethylene cannot be glued or bonded. ABS accepts bonding compounds totally. I use ABS and set them into a bead of Marine Tex epoxy putty. This means no leaks, no screws, it’s totally paintable. The port boss becomes one with the hull. Additionally, if the surface is curved the putty allows the port assembly to remain flat and easy to operate. See the attached photo of my Tornado. Use 5” if you can. The Inch designation is not the true size. The hole is usually smaller. The photo shows 5” and I wish I had installed 6” instead.
 

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Any progress on the Minifish cockpit inspection port? We splashed our "new to us" Mini three weeks ago. Wife requested as easier for her to move with a girlfriend than our Sunfish. I sailed it twice and see benefits of updates tag mentioned. Also see the advantage of cockpit port w storage bag. Would appreciate advice on how 4" or 5" port works to access and how the install went. Would like to acquire the components and do it onsite where we keep the boat instead of bringing home mid-season. Thanks.
 

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