metal self bailer

Is a leak test (or an actual in the water leak test) the only way to determine whether the self-bailer works? Mine looks JUST like the one they're removing on WindLine, but if I don't have to remove it, I'd be happier. I just don't know how it's supposed to function, when functional, as it were.
TIA,
CAtya
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Catya said:
Is a leak test (or an actual in the water leak test) the only way to determine whether the self-bailer works? Mine looks JUST like the one they're removing on WindLine, but if I don't have to remove it, I'd be happier. I just don't know how it's supposed to function, when functional, as it were.
TIA,
CAtya

No, a leak test won't work. In fact, a fully functional (open) bailer doesn't prevent water from coming in. It just facilitates getting rid of water and it works best once you are reaching, the faster the better.

More in general: if no water is getting into the boat (flat water, light winds), keep the bailer closed to keep your feet dry. But once water is coming in (spray, wave action etc. ), open the bailer to get rid of most of it. Also after a capsize :eek: ....

Whether the bailer works or doesn't really isn't all that important; just go sailing and find out..
 
Catya

The metal bailer is simple enough. If your boat was used in salt water the plug may be stuck for ever and ever, then follow the above instructions. First does your metal plug unscrew? If it does you are in good shape. Is there a flat rubber washer under the cap? Replacements are hard to find, make one from an old inner tube or from the rubber (I believe it is neoprene) they sell at a craft store. Check the threads, are they pited, rough looking? Scrub the threads (plug and housing) with a small wire brush to remove any corrosion. Clean out the holes in the plug and any dirt from the housing. Does the plug screw in and out easily? Suggest waxing the threads with a hard wax (candle, canning wax). They old manual suggested grease, but wax is cleaner and does not pick up grit (sand and dirt) as much. Is there a little ball(about 1/2" diameter) under the plug in the bottom of the housing? If it is missing, you will need to replace it (P/N 79332).

Ok, the check list and maintenance is complete. Close the plug (gently srew it in just enough to feel resistance from the rubber washer) and launch your SF in shallow water. Stand next to your SF. Do you see any leakage around the bailer or from the plug? If no leakage, you are good to go. If from around the bailer, you may need to remove it and reseal :( . If from the plug, tighten it a little more. To check to see if the ball is working, open the plug 3 turns. If water rushes in, it's not working. If it trickles in, it is ok. The ball is suppose to float up against the bottom of the plug and stop any water from entering, good theory, not so good in reality. Close the plug. To check it the bailer is working, get sailing at a good clip (like Wavedancer says, faster is better) and open the plug 3 turns. If you hear a sucking sound, all is well. Any water in the cock pit should be visably draining.

If things do not go right, the plug is frozen, leakeage around the bailer housing, you will probably need to replace your bailer with the newer plastic one (P/N 79260) :( which will mean spending more money :( . Good luck, follow Wavedancers advice on when to open and close the plug and go sail.
 
Catya

I got this answer in another forum. It probably describes your boat too. Might help to look at a Sunfish parts diagram to see what pieces the answer is talking about.


Water backing-up through the bailer is normal, not intended, but normal. This is due to two things - (1) the Bailer Ball doesn't have enough buoyancy to press tightly against the Bailer Ball Seal to close completely. This is why there is also a Bailer Plug [new style] or screw-down cap [old style]; (2) The Bailer only develops enough low pressure (Bernoulli Principle) to act as a drain when the boat is sailing about 3 kts or better.

Water leaking in around the Bailer could be due to a bad bailer O-Ring or a bad Bailer Plug ring. These two items form the lower and upper seal with the hull and cockpit respectively.

To fix water coming through the Bailer, replace the Bailer Ball and Washer with new ones -and- use the plug when the boat isn't moving at a moderate speed.

To fix water coming around the Bailer, Remove the Bailer Assembly, check the O-Ring and Plug ring for age, replace as necessary.

Wavedancer is right, go sailing. Take a big sponge just in case.

Megan
 
Hi again,
Here's the situation I find myself in (other than immense relief that I can try to go sailing even if the self bailer ISN'T working correctly):
My bailer looks somewhat different than the drawings at Windline. The cap itself (made in TX) isn't threaded and just seems to pull/push up and down. The ball IS still there and floats in a bowl of water. The big hex nut thingy on the deck side will spin the cap/hole on the bottom of the hull. I'm assuming that the inner ring beneath the cap is the threaded part. It's frozen now, but I've WD40-ed it (I have a friend who HATES it when people "verb" words--so now I do it all the time to be pesky), and will try it Sunday or Monday to see whether it's free.
If not, I won't be able to replace the O ring, which I assume is toast. For a temporary fix for THAT part of the situation, is there some material I can use to seal the OUTSIDE of the perimeter of the hex nut thingy and the bottom cover thingy? Some sort of marine caulk -ish stuff that would work for a while until a real fix can be made?
Thanks,
Catya
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Catya,

Ok, your plug is not threaded (see picture of an original Depersia plug), just a cork in the hole. If it works, good. Original replacements are hard to find (See SF Sailor at Yahoo). The large nut that holds the bailer in place, spins the whole assembly? Picture 2 (white looking ring is the body of the bailer). When you try to unscrew this nut, you will need a little help, someone to hold the exterior part underneath. The exterior part is cast aluminum and will break if too much pressure is placed on it (don't ask, I know :mad: ). If you can not move it after soaking it with "WD-40" or "Liquid Wrench", you will unfortunately have to resort to the more drastic cut (use a dremel tool with a fiberglass reinfored cutting wheel, less heat) and break method of removal and replace the metal bailer with the plastic one :)( $) . If you can remove it, clean it up and you can make new gaskets as suggested in my last post. A temporary fix would be to apply a fillet of marine silicon around the exterior part. When ready to remove the part, use a razor blade to cut the silicon first (it can be a little bit of a pain to clean off the surface of the hull when you do have to replace the bailer). Good Luck and Good Sailing.
 

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Thanks again! That's exactly all the stuff I needed to know! Ain't the internet grand--couldn't have taken any of this one without it. --Catya
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